Recent content by VSTwister

What did your Hughes torque converter look like vs mine as far as this floating around part I have? This converter was supposedly hardly used. I don't know but things don't add up. I'm not going to use this as is, but it'd be nice to know what's going on with it exactly.

That is interesting, and disappointing that such a big name in converters would be doing this. The tech told me this as far as costs go "typical freshing is about 240 plus shipping (about an extra 100.00 there as well going both ways total".

No I got it this way and noticed it before going to install it. I've had it for a long time sitting so can't do much about it except get it rebuilt. But...I'm now leaning towards one with higher stall speed anyways. If anyone is interested in buying it for a core or to have rebuilt, let me...

I talked to Hughes tech. Here's what they told me with the same photos: "That is the roller Torrington bearing that is stacked between the impeller and stator . too much clearance in my eyes, this could be that the converter has slightly ballooned and increased the internal clearance. Not...

From the 71 Plymouth FSM:

So just curious, what is that edge of what is some type of spacer/disc down inside of my Hughes torque converter? (edit: it's in the upper left in the photo, and it will move around freely as you tilt the converter.) The factory one doesn't have this as far as I can tell. Just making sure this...

Nice. Reading up on that and adding these items to my Amazon cart. Some of this stuff I'd rather not sandblast when it's just minor surface rust. And this will come in handy for cleaning my gas tank of the rust as I try to revive it... Thanks!

For an entire truck underside...I could see that. I'm looking to just go over the areas with fresh metal and maybe the areas where the old coating is gone.

These all seem like great options, and certain parts might benefit a particular type where I could very well be using more than just one of these here. Thanks FABO members.

Woolwax...this might answer another question I have for down the road on doing undercoating. My car has mostly the old school rubberized stuff, but it does have new skin on it, including the rear outer fenders that just have the AMD black primer on them...was wondering what to use there even...

Yeah the heating parts seems a pain, but with a heat gun maybe not too bad. That Boeshield T9 stuff...sounds like another good one for at least the moving/sliding parts.

To be sure I'm Googling the stuff you're referring to...Seymour cast-iron gray finish spray paint? Seymour Cast-Blast, Automotive Cast Iron Spray Paint (12 oz) - Seymour Paint

Looks good for moving parts, but what's it like for coating over entire parts? Looks like they have it in aerosol spray cans, and it puts a gray colored coating on that apparently is like paint (dries fast with no tacky surface after 15 minute dry time), but obviously slippery. This I could see...

Steering column shafts, wiper linkage, e-brake cables, trans dipstick & tube, door lock mechanisms, etc... As I pull back out my parts from storage when I tore down the car, these parts are clearly not painted by factory, have surface rust, etc.. The e-brake cables are very rusty and dirty, but...

Thanks. After I did the other one, I see how is worn in the centers some, but the full "bars" are supposed to be there.