What do you do for restoration on unpainted parts?

[VSTwister]

Steering column shafts, wiper linkage, e-brake cables, trans dipstick & tube, door lock mechanisms, etc...

As I pull back out my parts from storage when I tore down the car, these parts are clearly not painted by factory, have surface rust, etc.. The e-brake cables are very rusty and dirty, but were under the car when daily driven so that's to be expected. Most of these parts it's hard to tell if they maybe they had a clear zinc plating finish? If so, obviously it doesn't last either not to mention that seems a pain to do and something not easy to find locally and spend $$$ to have done. And you'd have to tear down more complicated parts (those door linkage mechs for example) to get that done right. There's got to be better...

Thanks to doing a search about internal brake parts that are rusty but never painted...I found out about RPM:
Eastwood Rust Prevention Magic

Sounds great, but it lasts only 2 years? Is this the best there is or what other options are there? What do you do for restoration on these type parts? I'm not looking for concours or must be exactly same as original and spend high dollar for that. I just want to put parts back on the car that have been restored as best I can for function and look. No rusty parts going back in, and things like wiper linkage getting new gaskets and bushings so it'll work like it did new in 1971. (I do like to keep things original-looking as much as I can though.)

Thanks.

 

[halifaxhops]

Slip plate works great. Google it

 

[Murray]

In my experience any "rust preventer" only lasts 1-2 years. For me, I paint those parts a matching color giving the illusion of natural.

 

[Icetech]

satin clear... i don't do a restore though.. stuff that's bare metal i spray with cast blast, love the stuff

 

[dadsbee]

I used ECS's RPM on my Bee restoration... 2016 to 2019. PITA heating and coating everything, but it seems to do the test of time. Nothing has rusted after 6 years and 3500 miles.

I used Boeshield T9 doing the Swinger a few years ago, still holding up but a few other items I've coated with it have started to rust again, like my '66 HP2's brake master reservoir.

 

[MMissile]

Once cleaned or new cast parts, can be coated in a lanolin type product [Woolwax]. I soak[spray heavily] new iron suspension parts, sit for a few days, then wipe off the excess before installing. None of my iron front-end parts rust.

 

[VSTwister]

Slip plate works great. Google it

Looks good for moving parts, but what's it like for coating over entire parts? Looks like they have it in aerosol spray cans, and it puts a gray colored coating on that apparently is like paint (dries fast with no tacky surface after 15 minute dry time), but obviously slippery. This I could see using on a lot of parts...not suggesting this but I wonder about window regulators and stuff like that...
SLIP Plate® Aerosol | SLIP Plate

 

[VSTwister]

satin clear... i don't do a restore though.. stuff that's bare metal i spray with cast blast, love the stuff

To be sure I'm Googling the stuff you're referring to...Seymour cast-iron gray finish spray paint?

Seymour Cast-Blast, Automotive Cast Iron Spray Paint (12 oz) - Seymour Paint

 

[VSTwister]

I used ECS's RPM on my Bee restoration... 2016 to 2019. PITA heating and coating everything, but it seems to do the test of time. Nothing has rusted after 6 years and 3500 miles.




I used Boeshield T9 doing the Swinger a few years ago, still holding up but a few other items I've coated with it have started to rust again, like my '66 HP2's brake master reservoir.

Yeah the heating parts seems a pain, but with a heat gun maybe not too bad.

That Boeshield T9 stuff...sounds like another good one for at least the moving/sliding parts.

 

[VSTwister]

Once cleaned or new cast parts, can be coated in a lanolin type product [Woolwax]. I soak[spray heavily] new iron suspension parts, sit for a few days, then wipe off the excess before installing. None of my iron front-end parts rust.

Woolwax...this might answer another question I have for down the road on doing undercoating. My car has mostly the old school rubberized stuff, but it does have new skin on it, including the rear outer fenders that just have the AMD black primer on them...was wondering what to use there even though this car won't see winter driving ever again.

Comes in spray can too and also clear...good for leaving the natural finish look.
Woolwax Spray – Rust Protection Lubricant | 12oz Can

 

[Icetech]

To be sure I'm Googling the stuff you're referring to...Seymour cast-iron gray finish spray paint?

Seymour Cast-Blast, Automotive Cast Iron Spray Paint (12 oz) - Seymour Paint

yeah.. i use it on anything that is just bare metal or gray... it looks great and of course never rusts... and 1 can seems to last forever.

 

[Icetech]

Woolwax...this might answer another question I have for down the road on doing undercoating. My car has mostly the old school rubberized stuff, but it does have new skin on it, including the rear outer fenders that just have the AMD black primer on them...was wondering what to use there even though this car won't see winter driving ever again.

Comes in spray can too and also clear...good for leaving the natural finish look.
Woolwax Spray – Rust Protection Lubricant | 12oz Can

I just woolwaxed the bottom of my new truck.. the cans work great, but next time i will pay to have it done

 

[VSTwister]

These all seem like great options, and certain parts might benefit a particular type where I could very well be using more than just one of these here. Thanks FABO members.

 

[VSTwister]

I just woolwaxed the bottom of my new truck.. the cans work great, but next time i will pay to have it done

For an entire truck underside...I could see that. I'm looking to just go over the areas with fresh metal and maybe the areas where the old coating is gone.

 

[Icetech]

btw VST if you are dealing with any rusty items.. get like a 20 gallon tub and make up some evaporust.. costs like $14 for 20 gallons or so... will clean the parts in like 6-10 hours perfectly clean

Rust removal, better than evaporust and 10x cheaper..

soo.. so in doing my car which was a michigan car i have dealt with a lot of rust and spent way too much money on evaporust that i finally went online and looked and found this guys video and made his mix and it worked better than evaporust and lasts longer so far. Sadly i'm down to only a few...

www.forbbodiesonly.com

 

[VSTwister]

btw VST if you are dealing with any rusty items.. get like a 20 gallon tub and make up some evaporust.. costs like $14 for 20 gallons or so... will clean the parts in like 6-10 hours perfectly clean

http://[URL]https://www.forbbodieso...better-than-evaporust-and-10x-cheaper.299605/

[/URL]

Nice. Reading up on that and adding these items to my Amazon cart. Some of this stuff I'd rather not sandblast when it's just minor surface rust. And this will come in handy for cleaning my gas tank of the rust as I try to revive it... Thanks!

 

[Icetech]

Nice. Reading up on that and adding these items to my Amazon cart. Some of this stuff I'd rather not sandblast when it's just minor surface rust. And this will come in handy for cleaning my gas tank of the rust as I try to revive it... Thanks!

awesome.. and i didn't think bout doing a gas tank.. should work great.. i tend to just leave things overnight but it works in like 6 hours.. stuff is great