New headers TTI or Doug

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these pictures are off the topic but do show the 72 k-member going into the 73..
 

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Hooker also states that their 5204 header only fits 67-72, but I have them in my 73 Dart Sport 340 with the factory spool K-frame, and they fit great!
 
The TTIs may have more top end but I would bet its because of the the collector size difference and not because of the primary size step.
 
AdamR said:
The TTIs may have more top end but I would bet its because of the the collector size difference and not because of the primary size step.
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agreed, my exhaust right now has 3in collectors and i have collector reducers welded on to my current set up for 3in, so I dont know if putting the doug on would work without cutting the exhaust...
 
Collector are the same 3" sizing for dougs and tti steps.
 
crackedback said:
Collector are the same 3" sizing for dougs and tti steps.
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Oh thanks! Then what is adam talking about?

And also I think If I jsut wanted performance from my headers I would go Hooker Super Comps, but I rather not scrape them, as I already do with my Summit Flowtechs. Will going to doug or TTI improve power of my motor over the Summit brad headers which most say are repackaged Flowtechs?
 
Also make sure (If you order them) you just get the D453
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DOU-D453/ These are coated.

D453R
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DOU-D453-R/ Are RAW and need to be painted.

Also you lose very little power (doug vs TTI) The only time you would really want TTi (unless you just want to say "I have TTi Headers") is if your motor is pumping out a lot of horse power. At a 400 HP motor you might lose 3-5 horses between the two.
 
1970Duster said:
Also make sure (If you order them) you just get the D453
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DOU-D453/ These are coated.

D453R
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DOU-D453-R/ Are RAW and need to be painted.

Also you lose very little power (doug vs TTI) The only time you would really want TTi (unless you just want to say "I have TTi Headers") is if your motor is pumping out a lot of horse power. At a 400 HP motor you might lose 3-5 horses between the two.
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Ok hopefully mine makes 400 to the wheels... not to the crank would it make a difference then? Also Coated or un coated? of I go either?
 
74Burntorange said:
Ok hopefully mine makes 400 to the wheels... not to the crank would it make a difference then? Also Coated or un coated? of I go either?
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If your making 400 HP at the wheels now and are going to pump up to more power later, I'd bite that bullet and get the TTi headers (assuming your going for at least a 100 HP increase at the wheels). The coated headers (either Doug's or TTi) act as a thermal barrier (which is a good thing) in this aspect TTi is better because they also coat inside the tubes (extra coat which works out to be $750 i think for for the headers total) which smooths out the tube which equals better flow. The step headers are as big as it gets unless you want to jump up to fender wells.
 
the ceramic coating on my Dougs is starting to get some rust coming through after 3 years. Not happy about it. I though they were supposed to last better than that. Also, had to weld a leak on the #7 hole that they must have missed during building.

I have not had TTI's, but might give them a try next time.

Steve
 
AdamR said:
TTI has a 1-7/8" header now also, If your making 400 at the wheels now which you probably arent and you have plans to make more soon you may look in to those but I would just put the smaller tubed TTIs on it.

http://ttiexhaust.com/Header-TTI340-178ER/178ERheaders.htm
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prolly not?

cam at 244@50 with heads that flow 265@ 500 with 10.8 compression 2 dyno programs say 480 at crank and taking 80 off for drive train says 400 at wheels hopefully
 
the ceramic coating on my Dougs is starting to get some rust coming through after 3 years. Not happy about it. I though they were supposed to last better than that.
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happens to them all, just a matter of time.
 
74Burntorange said:
prolly not?

cam at 244@50 with heads that flow 265@ 500 with 10.8 compression 2 dyno programs say 480 at crank and taking 80 off for drive train says 400 at wheels hopefully
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Dyno it, I bet you will be surprised. Im not trying to put down your combo but I bet its much closer to 425 at the crank then 480.

My old 340 made 480 at the crank, 11:1 compression, race gas, heads flowed about what your do, Huge solid cam 265@50" , Victor intake, 750hp carb. 483hp at 7000rpms, 410ftlbs of torque at 5500rpms. It was enough power to push a 69 Satellite in to the mid 11s, so even if you are only making 425 at the crank you should be able to get your 11.80s
 
AdamR said:
Dyno it, I bet you will be surprised. Im not trying to put down your combo but I bet its much closer to 425 at the crank then 480.

My old 340 made 480 at the crank, 11:1 compression, race gas, heads flowed about what your do, Huge solid cam 265@50" , Victor intake, 750hp carb. 483hp at 7000rpms, 410ftlbs of torque at 5500rpms. It was enough power to push a 69 Satellite in to the mid 11s, so even if you are only making 425 at the crank you should be able to get your 11.80s
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still how is a 318 in mopar magazine making 400 and mine would only make 425?

Package eight:
360 rebuilt with 9.5 to 1 cast pistons, original crank, rods and windage tray. 202 heads with competition valve job and ported to flow 260 cfm. Edelbrock RPM intake, Holley 750 rejetted, Large tube headers and Mopar Performance P4120231 cam with .484" lift, 284 duration, 108 lsa, installed at 106 intake centerline.
460 h.p. @6000 rpm
486 lbs. of torque @ 4,250 rpm

Package nine:
360 rebuilt with 10:1 compression flat top cast pistons, original crank turned .010"/.010", rebuilt factory rods. Factory windage tray installed. 2.02" heads with competition valve job and ported to flow 260 cfm. Edelbrock RPM intake, port/gasket matched. Holley H.P. 750 (.076" front, .080" rear jets). Large 1 3/4" primary tube headers. Comp Cams 305AH-8 camshaft with .525"/.540" lift and 305/312 degree advertised duration, 253/260 degrees @ .050", 110 lsa, installed at 108 intake centerline. This motor is a brute for a street car and would only be considered a weekend blaster.
495 h.p. @ 6,000 rpm
500 lbs. of torque @ 4,500 rpm
 
here is scampmans setup...

My Combo I was running in my 71 scamp,

360 eng stock stroke,
KB pistons 10,7 ,
eagles rods,
Edelbrock heads out of the box,
crane roller rockers,
Comp solid flat tappet 555 lift,
Digital 6 MSD box and dist,
Wiend dual tunnel Ram and 2# AFB comp sers carbs 500s .
Car #s 3000 lbs me in it,
4 spd with the 833 trans pro shifted by liberty.
4.88 gears, w 28 x 10.5 slicks.
Best run 11.50 @ 119 mph 1.60 60 foot, 1/8th 7.45 ,
Eng dynode at 407 hp and 401 fpt at rear wheels.
 
74Burntorange said:
still how is a 318 in mopar magazine making 400 and mine would only make 425?
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big numbers sells magazines.

on the dynosims dont thrust the numbers,but spot the trends,these programs are usefull to figure out what changes are worth doing and wich are not,they can be accurate but those that are close realy demands perfect input on everything. my blown 340 should according to camquest make 700hp at 6000 something rpm and over 600Lbs of torque at a very low rpm that tells me something about how far out it is.knowing that a friends blown 383made 600hp at a real dyno with much better basic components

and i agree with Adam and im not either trying to put your combo down 425hp is a ton of power on the street!
 
duster340 said:
big numbers sells magazines.

on the dynosims dont thrust the numbers,but spot the trends,these programs are usefull to figure out what changes are worth doing and wich are not,they can be accurate but those that are close realy demands perfect input on everything. my blown 340 should according to camquest make 700hp at 6000 something rpm and over 600Lbs of torque at a very low rpm that tells me something about how far out it is.knowing that a friends blown 383made 600hp at a real dyno with much better basic components

and i agree with Adam and im not either trying to put your combo down 425hp is a ton of power on the street!
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I posted combos and my setup is close or more than all posted, all im saying is there there for reference and why should I not make what they did, especially scampman or the 460hp one?
 
OK,

So, can we start this conversation all over??? You all seem very knowledgeable and after today I believe I might be a short bus candidate!!!

I just bought some TTI headers and tried to install them on my 1969 coupe that has power steering. Got the passenger side in NO PROBLEM ......got the driver side slipped in place but the motor will not sit because the third tube back is getting hung up on the top of the power steering box. I don't have the trans in, the bare engine is not bolted down but I can't seem to get the pipes to clear the steering box.

Ugghhhh.....free beer, pizza, scotch, tri-tip, etc at my place here in San Diego if anyone wants to make it a party to help me get this thing in place. My kids senior year starts on Wednesday and the project is not going to be done for another month....

Suggestions????

Frustrated........
 
ABCuda said:
OK,

So, can we start this conversation all over??? You all seem very knowledgeable and after today I believe I might be a short bus candidate!!!

I just bought some TTI headers and tried to install them on my 1969 coupe that has power steering. Got the passenger side in NO PROBLEM ......got the driver side slipped in place but the motor will not sit because the third tube back is getting hung up on the top of the power steering box. I don't have the trans in, the bare engine is not bolted down but I can't seem to get the pipes to clear the steering box.

Ugghhhh.....free beer, pizza, scotch, tri-tip, etc at my place here in San Diego if anyone wants to make it a party to help me get this thing in place. My kids senior year starts on Wednesday and the project is not going to be done for another month....

Suggestions????

Frustrated........
Click to expand...

Get the trans in with it mounted up. I'd bet the engine is sitting low in the rear compared to with the trans in.
 
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