11 second street car?

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I checked out Brians website, and saw the build of his Duster. Hes running 10's with a stock crank and rods??? Are these Mopar bottom ends that good? I doubt a SBC could do that unless it had a Gm steel crank.

Yes it's all stock components... kb107's too in that 360. Turned it 7500+ on occasion.

Those Car Craft engines are solid builds and run well. His car with the Car Craft engine, 10" 3500 converter ran 6.94 at 96.5-97 IIRC. Basically an 11.00ish set up. Here it is in action.

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/13/irwindalevids003.mp4/
 
Yes. The Mopar factory stuff is that good. Wait till you tear into one. You'll wonder why you ever messed with a chebbie. The stock 318-340-360 connecting rod is bigger than the chebbie LS6 454 rod.

First is the 318-340-360 then the LS6-LS7 big block rod. Though the big block rod is 6.135 and the Mopar rod 6.123 the difference is astounding. These are the same rods as in a 318 2bbl engine. Only difference in the 340 is they are bushed for floating pins.

360RODS.jpg


CHEBBIEROD.gif
 
if your going to build a stroker, put a cam in it to take the chance to put the engine to its full potential. 450 from a stroker is not that much. When I see stroker and spend money like that it should make at least 500hp.

It is at 5800'. If he was at sea level or close to it, he'd be well over 500 hp.
 
Yes. The Mopar factory stuff is that good. Wait till you tear into one. You'll wonder why you ever messed with a chebbie. The stock 318-340-360 connecting rod is bigger than the chebbie LS6 454 rod.

First is the 318-340-360 then the LS6-LS7 big block rod. Though the big block rod is 6.135 and the Mopar rod 6.123 the difference is astounding. These are the same rods as in a 318 2bbl engine. Only difference in the 340 is they are bushed for floating pins.

360RODS.jpg


CHEBBIEROD.gif

Wow, thats petty amazing. I never knew they were that brutish in stock form. Do these good bottom ends apply for the magnums too? It seems one could save a good amount of money by using the factory stuff if staying under 500 horse. With a good solid bottom end, you could build a pretty snotty engine with a good set of heads and cam.
 
Lower right corner of the post they made. There is a button that says "THANKS"

On Con Rods, you'll spend a bit getting the old stuff reworked vs. buying newer lighter stuff. It's a trade off. The newer Scat I beam rods are good pieces and reasonably priced.
 
Lower right corner of the post they made. There is a button that says "THANKS"

On Con Rods, you'll spend a bit getting the old stuff reworked vs. buying newer lighter stuff. It's a trade off. The newer Scat I beam rods are good pieces and reasonably priced.

Man, I must really be missing something. There are 3 buttons on the bottom right, and they are all for quotes.
 
Wow, thats petty amazing. I never knew they were that brutish in stock form. Do these good bottom ends apply for the magnums too? It seems one could save a good amount of money by using the factory stuff if staying under 500 horse. With a good solid bottom end, you could build a pretty snotty engine with a good set of heads and cam.

Yeah, they're pretty heay duty. But like crackedback said, they still need to be reconditioned with HP use in mind. Magnafluxing, good rod bolts, bushed for floating pins, shot peening if you so desire......so by the time all that is done, you could have probably gotten some better aftermarket rods. I say probably because machine work costs vary from place to place. If you can get it done cheaply, you can still save over new rods. But the new ones are still probably lighter. But plenty of super stock cars have run stock stuff and won.
 
You guys have been extremely helpful. These old mopars are starting to sound more tempting with every post. Another thing I was wondering. Are these engines 2 or 4 bolt mains like SBC's? If so, that is something else i should be considering.
 
Don't waste the time to put a 4 bolt main on a SB mopar. Don't need it. Unless you are going to some crazy HP levels, then a stock block isn't a consideration, get an R series block. Good studs and stock caps are capable of holding 600hp.

The 4 bolt caps weaken the block on stock SB's. Not enough material in the area the bolts enter. The R series and rare TA block have better webbing to accept 4 bolt mains.
 
Stock block will hold 550-600 HP.
 
The old "X" blocks are the first"race block" from MoPar. It has a higher nickel content than a stock block. A stock block has nearly the same to slightly more nickel than a Chevy race block.

After the X block, comes the "R" block. There are many verities (SP!) out there to be looked at, but they are pricey for regular guys. If your racing, then the money spent is "Well spent" It is possible to find a used one every now and again.

The stock block can handle 600+ HP. However, at these levels, longevity is a issue. At 500 HP, the issue is diminished alot, but not gone. You can live with a 500 HP engine on the street for a long time provided your not beating the snot out of it in the streets. I guess just like any other engine. LOL!

The X & R blocks come with 4 bolt mains. All stock blocks are 2 bolt mains. Except, IIRC, the 70 340 6 pak engine. This I am not sure on, I honestly forget. It would be a rare find to find one. Very rare. (As well as the heads for that engine)

The con rods (stock) can hold 500 hp. But like said above, to have them done up nicely for power, the cost is a bit high vs. getting a new rod. While not as cheap as a chevy rod, they'll certainly hold alot of power over the stockers.

Some places offer girddles for high HP engines. IMO, from what I have seen. You'll not need a gridle unless your going nutz in a big way. (Surpassing a stock blocks abilty to hold power)

Oiling should be addressed if big power is in your future as well as high RPM's. MoPar themselfs put out a book called the "Engines" book. Recently, last few years, they diveided the book up into engine families. They go as followed;

Small block ("LA") 273, 318, 340, 360 and stroker combo's.

Magnum (Also a small block) 318 & 360 and stroker combo's

Stroker small blocks can get to (IIRC,) A 472 cid with race blocks and no fancy tricks. Just big bore and big stroke.

When you get to serious heads, the heads add a row of attaching points down low for added clamping force. They can be seen in MoPars "W" series racing heads as well as Indy's. Maybe heads from Brodix also have
that. I'm not sure....hummmm. (I should know this.)

For 500 HP,a maxed out ported stock head can do it, though, the combo may not be so great for the street.

Steping up to aluminum Edelbrock heads or MoPars iron W2 heads will also do it. They have the abilty to flow more air and by a good amount of ported OE heads. In a way, cam timeing can be reduced with a better head.

Steping up again would be other MoPar W series heads or a set of indy heads. Still, 500 HP is nothing to sneezzee at. Set up right in a light car, one that means bizniz, it wil likely eat mostcars for lunch without breaking a sweat.
 
I say big block, I am kinda partial tho lol. I have a 440, 30 over, 10 to 1, .519 lift, 440 source aluminum heads, edelbrock single plane intake, shifting at 5,800 rpm car runs 11.80's all day long. 3.73 sure grip 8.75. Full interior, full of gas, and drive it to the track and back home on drag radials. Now the install of a big block is a bit more complicated into an A body thats for sure. The biggest expense would be the headers. I'm sorry, but you just can't beat the torque of a big block.
 
I say big block, I am kinda partial tho lol. I have a 440, 30 over, 10 to 1, .519 lift, 440 source aluminum heads, edelbrock single plane intake, shifting at 5,800 rpm car runs 11.80's all day long. 3.73 sure grip 8.75. Full interior, full of gas, and drive it to the track and back home on drag radials. Now the install of a big block is a bit more complicated into an A body thats for sure. The biggest expense would be the headers. I'm sorry, but you just can't beat the torque of a big block.

Then again, if you have a BB that goes 11.8, might as well stay with Sb and go 11.8 unless the equal money spent on the bb and Sb will make one or the other faster.

keep in mind Im not trying to put anyones build down, im just speaking from my own experience. Your going to want to go faster. Make the setup your going to want and go with it, instead of going through 4 cams like me and 2 sets of heads
 
keep in mind Im not trying to put anyones build down, im just speaking from my own experience. Your going to want to go faster. Make the setup your going to want and go with it, instead of going through 4 cams like me and 2 sets of heads

I totally agree. Thats why I put a stout bottem end in my 440. Because I also have a nitrous plate on the car for those "holy $hit!" moments haha! I am happy with how the car runs without it, but I have the kit on there just in case.
 
Make the setup your going to want and go with it, instead of going through 4 cams like me and 2 sets of heads

WHAT!?!?! And misss out on all the fun of swapin cams and intakes just to see what it's all about. Gezzz, your no fun at all. :toothy9::tongue7:
 
Check out those builds and have someone besides indy build your stuff.

There are a bunch of shops that build engines to a higher quality level for equal or less money than indy.
 
Check out those builds and have someone besides indy build your stuff.

There are a bunch of shops that build engines to a higher quality level for equal or less money than indy.

and if you have the room, but dont have the money. Build it yourself. Get the how to build a mopar book and read. I did and Ive ripped my engine apart and put it together like 5 times and its really not that hard. You just have to make sure to take your time and check all the clearances and etc. and you will be fine. That way you save labor, gain more time to get the correct parts and have only yourself to blame if something goes wrong, but at least you know that you can take it apart, since you put it together!:burnout:
 
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