oil question on fairly new engine build

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warlockpain

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enville, tn
First, hello all and new to the forum and the leaning tower of...get me where i'm going lol.

What are your thoughts on synthetic oil in the /6? The engine (225 in 66 dart) was completely rebuilt several years ago, broken in, then the car sat up for quite some time due to needing the complete brake system redone.

I am at the point of trying to get the engine going again, checking trans, etc. and if all is good then on to the brake system revamp.

Any advice on the oil viscosity and pros/ cons of going with full synthetic? Changing the oil (after trying to fire it up) is the next thing on my to do list.

Thanks in advance guys/gals!
 
ok thanks, but after that, is switching to synthetic a bad idea? i've had really good luck with the synthetic in late model vehicles. Hoping this thing will last forever! lol
 
thanks for the input. i'm thinking 10w30 dino to make SURE that it is broken in right, then semi synthetic, then full. :)
now.......filter suggestions? please don't suggest fram (not happening) lol
 
I like that ^^^^^ smart man..no fram. I usually use purolater or mobil1. If you use the search option I believe you'll find some threads on oil and filters...if my old memory serves me right!
 
if it were me, i wouldnt spend the money for synthetic on a slant 6, just use dino oil. for a filter, use a WIX or Napa Gold, which is also made by wix...
 
wix has recently came out with a "platinum" filter, synthetic media, steel mesh backed. specifically for synthetics and extended oil change intervals. only sold through napa as far as i know.
 
I would run it for about 500 miles and change over to mobil 1 synthetic.
My dad bought a new 360 78 powerwagon after the first oil change, he went to Mobil 1 back in 1978.
At 213,000 miles clutch finally wore out.
Dad said to freshen up the motor while it was out.
I pulled the motor, and there was no wear on the bearings.
Re-gasked it still going strong with 244,000 on it right now.
There is only about $3.00 difference per quart on dino and synthetic.
 
no brainer Synthetic . But as was said cheap oil first then. switch over. Just because you want to dump the oil you fire it with. If the oil that's in it looks good then fire it with that and then go right to synthetic
 
I agree. Napa gold or a wix (same thing).

I have been using the napa platinum filter on my Toyota since I found out about them
 
warlockpain said:
First, hello all and new to the forum and the leaning tower of...get me where i'm going lol.

....The car sat up for quite some time due to needing the complete brake system redone....

....I am at the point of trying to get the engine going again, checking trans, etc. and if all is good then on to the brake system revamp....

Thanks in advance guys/gals!
Click to expand...

Well, call me chicken, but I'd want to be damn sure I could STOP the car before I got it moving under its own power. Or maybe tie the rear axle to a big tree???

ATB and Merry Christmas to all

BC
 
warlockpain said:
i've had really good luck with the synthetic in late model vehicles.
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I think new engines have much less wear in cylinder bores and rings because the modern fuel controls are much better. With a carburertor, the cylinders tend to run richer, at least during acceleration and such, and poorer distribution between cylinders. Raw gas on the cylinder walls causes quicker wear. I have used only mineral oil in my 2.4L and when I pulled the head to replace the gasket at ~100K mi, I did a rebuild. There was no top ridge, I could see the original hone marks, and the ring gap was in spec. I figure it is good for 200K more miles easy with the new rings.
 
64ragtop said:
Well, call me chicken, but I'd want to be damn sure I could STOP the car before I got it moving under its own power. Or maybe tie the rear axle to a big tree???

ATB and Merry Christmas to all

BC
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lol the parking brake still works! it's the hydraulic brakes that are shot.

plenty of backroads here! (no traffic) ;)

my point is: if something is wrong with the GO, then no need to fix the WHOA! hehe
 
i say i've had good luck with synthetic because this car is replacing the 268,000 mile (original drivetrain) mustang that my dumb butt traded off. Three mark viii's as well all with over 200k got the synthetic treatment too. had a water pump go out on one of the m8s and it heated up to the point of shutting off and wouldn't crank back until the next morning. Fired it up, no knocks, no smoke, replaced the wp and went another 40k or so before trading the car. Yeah i'm a believer! lol
 
I ran synthetic in my 200000+ mile slant, but I run synthetic in everything.

Rotella T6 5w40 would be my choice. Comes in a big blue bottle at your local Tractor Supply/Farm&Fleet/WalMart. I run NAPA Gold filters too.
 
C130 Chief said:
Rotella T6 5w40 would be my choice.
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Many people run the "diesel" oils (CJ rating) in gas cars. They have more detergents to keep carbon suspended, which is a problem in diesels (very black oil). If your engine is old and has ring blowby, it is a good choice. It doesn't cost much more than regular mineral oil. You can even get synthetic. I think more important to change the oil often enough to keep it from getting too black, and that can be prohibitively expensive with synthetic for an older engine.
 
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