Slow Blinkers need help!

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OriginalDart

OriginalDart

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So I'm not the best with electrical and need some pointers here.
I have a all original 69 dart, still original wiring. I had to replace the alternator when my battery died and since my blinkers have been blinking very very slowly, when i come to a red light or stand still they dont blink at all. Not until my rpms go up and the alternator cranks out more juice. I just replaced the voltage regulator last week thinking it would fix the problem (i didnt change it when i replaced the alternator) it helped a little but now its back to the same old problems. Is this common? Should I replace the blinker fuse thingy too?
Any input will help, thanks guys!

-TheOriginalDart
 
The blinker fuse thingy won't fix it, though I'm not exactly sure what that is. Did you replace the stock blinker bulbs with LEDs. If so, you need a special flasher module rated for LEDs. Your original flasher depends on current flow to switch off & on. LEDs draw so little current that the original flasher won't work.

ATB

BC
 
I'm thinking it may be more in the wiring, maybe check the bulkhead connector. A lot of juice goes through it for the amp meter. Also check all the other under hood wiring for loose connections, and corrosion.
Don't forget to check the bliker fluid!
 
I think the blinker can uses heat to cycle a relay in there, like it heats up a spring or something, on the lines of a mechanical voltage regulator.. PErhaps the draw is too much for the thing to work? I recall a blown blinker will cause the good one on that side to blink very fast....just theory here. They are cheap anyway.
 
pishta said:
I think the blinker can uses heat to cycle a relay in there, like it heats up a spring or something, on the lines of a mechanical voltage regulator.. PErhaps the draw is too much for the thing to work? I recall a blown blinker will cause the good one on that side to blink very fast....just theory here. They are cheap anyway.
Click to expand...

Bi metal strip heats and causes the two metals to expand at different rates causing it to bend and make a set of points open and close.
So yea, that's about it.

The electronic style uses no moving or heating parts, just a timed electronic switch that load does not affect.
These are great, because it does'nt matter how many lights or what the amp load is.
They will also flash the same speed even at idle when the old style slow down.
 
If the change in flasher rate came with the alternator / battery issue that is likely still the problem. If amp gauge twitches with the flasher operation the entire charging system has a problem. If the charging system is proper a couple of flashing bulbs or even hazard flasher operating all 4 wouldn't effect it.
Owners of these older cars seem to believe that a weak charging system and headlights that dim and brighten with engine rpm is normal. Not true. When the car was new its charging system was adiquate.
Replace the flasher ( located on right side of ashtray hanger ) if you like. Good luck with it.
 
My volt meter does twitch while blinkers are operational...and when my wipers are on....and when headlights are turned on and off...
Thanks for the input. I'll check all my connections and grounds...if all else fails...i have been meaning to install a new harness, this is my excuse
 
There are a few things to check. First check the battery voltage, with car off after a recent start. It should read about 12.7 volts. Then start and measure the battery voltage, it should be between 13.8 and 14.5 volts and may vary with temperature and voltage drops. Also measure the voltage at the blue wire at regulator with other lead at ground. It should be perhaps 0.3 to 0.5v less than battery voltage.

Since the flasher is a thermal device it need a certain electrical load to work. This means all bulb elements and connection must be good. First check that all front and rear signals and tail lights are working, and brake lights. Often is a bulb is bad, the flasher is low on one side. There are heavy duty flashers, they are designed to work with added loads of trailer lights. They may not always work or be slow to blink in non trailer application.

The brake lights and turn signals share the same bulb filaments on a dual filament bulb. They draw more current and put out more light than the tail or running lights. If a bulb is forced into a socket incorrectly, or wiring is swapped or incorrect bulb, there can be a blinker problem.
 
I had this same problem and I replaced the blinker relay with one that is made to blink faster. of the top of my head I cant remember which one it is but some are heavy duty and others are made for little cars and such. If you have a full 12 volts going to it and there is a good ground then the flasher is the problem. I would check the wires with a multi meter first then go to the auto parts store. they are sittn on the shelf. pop one of those bad boys in and watch the light show.
:drinkers:
 
I might get slapped in here but mopar alternaters are not designed to fully output at low rpms if you have a cam that idles low this will happen. if your rpms are around say 700 or lower like my car you are just gonna have to live with it or bump the rpms up at idle.
:glasses7:
 
another thing to try is disable the ignition hook your volt meter to the battery terminals turn the headlights on and crank the car for 5 - 10seconds watch what the volt meter is reading if it drops below 10.5 volts while doing this your battery is weak and needs replaced . you basically are simulating a load test without the load tester by doing this . also watch how fast the voltage in the battery recovers if it is slow to recover or doesnt recover at all its bad if it goes up to atleast 12 volts within a minute or 2 its still ok as long as it isnt dropping below 10.5 volts. mopar alternators are kinda weak at idle the battery as well as starting the car acts as a backup for the electrical system during high draw low charge times such as at idle . if the battery is bad the alternator can not keep up with the cars demands plus charge the battery at idle . the result is battery wins lights lose because all power goes through the battery first then the rest of the car draws it as needed from there . but as mentioned above check all grounds first especially the voltage regulator . If needed you can run a wire from a bolt on the regulator to a grounded bolt on the alternator if they suddenly start working normal at idle either the regulator or alternator ground point need cleaned
 
Clean your bulkhead. Check ALL grounds. Check all connections. Car is old wiring just as old. Some cars will always do that. Mine still will on occasion. I am still checking grounds.
 
One good thing about the mechanical flashers is that they won't flash if a bulb is burned out so you know pretty quick (assuming you actually use the flashers).

One more thing to consider is to upgrade to a square back alternator if you have the old original round style. They put out more current at low RPM's so the flasher should work better.
 
oh goodie my car is not the only one that blinks slower then molasses

funny part is its only to turn left. right blinks as fast as it can

i always wonder what the car behind me thinks about my turn signals. one is slow, the other is fast.
 
cudajim said:
One good thing about the mechanical flashers is that they won't flash if a bulb is burned out so you know pretty quick (assuming you actually use the flashers).
Click to expand...

Mine was a little different, I had the turn signals that would blink once real slow and then stay on. Kind of scratched my head and then looked at all the bulbs and the right turn signal bulb had become loose. Screwed it back in and it worked like a charm. That was before I repainted it and since then I have rewired the whole car with a Painless kit. Although not as Pain Less as they lead you to believe it is great when the wiring gets done.
 
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