Boom goes the......

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I agree with you 100% I should have explained myself better.
I'm planning on taking my Dart to the track in the spring. I'll only get there 2 maybe 3 times a year and I plan on running it in full street trim. The car does have line lock in it. But if it's safer to avoid doing a burn out then so be it.

Thanks...........Ted
 
And people wonder why I only do standard trannies!!!!

Was @ PID(Pgh International Dragway) in the early 70's when a guy said goodbye to his right foot when one of these exploded. gruesome sight!!

FF
 
My apprentice mechanic son came back from Ford school after transmission training and his long time Ford mechanic instructor said the Torqueflite was and is the best automatic transmission ever designed/built by any car manufacturer.

I was shocked.
 
Coronet 500 said:
My apprentice mechanic son came back from Ford school after transmission training and his long time Ford mechanic instructor said the Torqueflite was and is the best automatic transmission ever designed/built by any car manufacturer.

I was shocked.
Click to expand...

He was right.
 
DusTed74 said:
Is there a "safe way" to do a burn out if you do not have a manual valve body?

Ted
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...............................Yes, there is..........keep it in manual low with ur stock type valve body [shifter in 1st gear] whether u have a shift kit or not......most ppl think the problem is on the 1-2 shift but the real problem occurs when u have are already in 2nd gear and ur tranny automatically shifts back down to 1st gear as there is nothing to hold the load on the down shift from 2nd to 1st but the sprag......with the low band applied on the down shift that problem is almost avoided.........buy hay anything can and will fail at anytime........kim.....
 
oldkimmer said:
...............................Yes, there is..........keep it in manual low with ur stock type valve body [shifter in 1st gear] whether u have a shift kit or not......most ppl think the problem is on the 1-2 shift but the real problem occurs when u have are already in 2nd gear and ur tranny automatically shifts back down to 1st gear as there is nothing to hold the load on the down shift from 2nd to 1st but the sprag......with the low band applied on the down shift that problem is almost avoided.........buy hay anything can and will fail at anytime........kim.....
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So which is right , 1st gear burnout or 2nd gear ? I've always kept it in 1st gear and never had a problem , of course I don't floor the pedal I regulate how fast I let the wheels spin .
 
I have never had a 727 break in the 17 years I've been racing. my current 727 is bone stock from 1979. I put a manual valve body in 7 years ago.

my car is 3800 lbs and runs 10's. I do my burnouts in 2nd and hit 3rd and roll out. seems to have worked for me all these years.
 
79410aspenrt said:
I have never had a 727 break in the 17 years I've been racing. my current 727 is bone stock from 1979. I put a manual valve body in 7 years ago.

my car is 3800 lbs and runs 10's. I do my burnouts in 2nd and hit 3rd and roll out. seems to have worked for me all these years.
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that just shows how strong these trannys are when the burnout is done right .
 
I think the fact they chose to make "clutch-flites", and not a "clutch- T/H-400s" or "clutch-C-6s" , - to run behind any breed of engine.. - says it all,
 
"Burnouts must be started in 2
nd gear only. Burnouts started in 1st gear can cause sprag failure and transmission explosion."
Quoted right off the Hughes website.

​
 
younggun2.0 said:
no first gear burnouts!
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DITTO !!! I learned the hard way about this one. Tore the sprag and drum up in my Coronet. After a quality rebuild with quality parts, and of course 2nd gear burnouts ..... trans worked flawlessly !
 
If 727s are so explosive how can they handle 425hp/490ft-lbs from a 426 Hemi?
 
inkjunkie said:
Folks can chest pound all you want about the 727....bottom line is they DO EXPLODE.
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In a Race app on Full Tilt Boogie sure they do. It is rare but it happens. I have never heard of one blowing up on the street. It usually happens on the line after damage has already occurred to the trans.
Same as someone over revving an engine, they will explode too. There are rules to this game that need to be followed. If followed the chances of this happening is Slim to none. Does everyone follow them…. No they don't. That is when it is Time to Pay!
 
TrailBeast said:
"Burnouts must be started in 2
nd gear only. Burnouts started in 1st gear can cause sprag failure and transmission explosion."
Quoted right off the Hughes website.

​
Click to expand...

..................Please enlighten us how a 2nd gear burn out is started with a non manual valve body............kim.........
 
A bolt in sprag wont cure the problem. Most sprag failures is from the springs and rollers in the sprag being damaged and rolling over and not locking the low/rev drum from turning. The "ultimate sprag" is a much better design. More springs and rollers in it. But misuse while in 1st gear can still cause damage in any 727 sprag. And any damage to the driveline like breaking a ring and pinion or a u-joint while in 1st is when the damage is most likely to occur. After any driveline failure the 727 should be pulled apart and sprag inspected. Also spinning the tires and then they hook while in low gear is hard on the sprag and can damage it. Even slicks spinning while in 1st gear on a marginal race track can damage the sprag.

With Manual VB I preach to my guys to start burnouts in 2nd and go to 3rd if necessary to get tire speed up with real loose converters. If doing a burnout with stock VB? Pull the shifter down to low. The low/Rev band isn't applied if you have it in drive and starting your burnout. And try to get it into 2nd asap with the tires spinning freely.

I wouldn't go Alum high gear drum unless its a all out drag car and lighter weight parts is wanted. Too much maintenance with them. Billet drum is a better option if you have the $$$? Valvebody's with low band apply is also good insurance. But stock high gear drums only go boom after the sprag has been damaged. Got guys racing them for almost 30 years now and Thank God none I've ever built has blown up. But knowing what can damage the sprag is the key to keeping them from going boom in the first place.

Stay safe guys!!
 
oldkimmer said:
..................Please enlighten us how a 2nd gear burn out is started with a non manual valve body............kim.........
Click to expand...

You can't, but there is still a procedure for not being in first while doing it.

All water burnouts should be started in second gear and shift to third if necessary. If you start burnout in first, shift immediately to second gear before tyres come out of water. No matter whether it be second or third gear you are in as you come out of the water, you should start to decelerate engine or do a power burnout directly to the staging line being sure the tyres never grab dry pavement. the power burnout provides the best E.T.'s if no dry burnout is done. No matter if you have a trans-brake or not, we suggest not doing dry burnouts!
Note:- Rear End Breakage and Driveshaft Breakage: If rear end or driveshaft breaks while in first gear acceleration or burnout, remove transmission and check rear roller clutch for damage.
 
""If doing a burnout with stock VB? Pull the shifter down to low. The low/Rev band isn't applied if you have it in drive and starting your burnout. And try to get it into 2nd asap with the tires spinning freely.""
So start in low and shift to 2nd as soon as possible ? The low /rev band is not applied if you start in drive ?
 
.............The l/r band does not apply if in drive or second ,only in manual low/rev.......do not shift to 2nd because when the tires grab and it down shifts to low u can rip out the sprag because there is only the sprag to hold all the torque.......the low band does not apply on the down shift........kim..........
 
this happen to me,might not on a street car as a drag car takes a lot of abuse and all ways doing lauches and burn outs,never start your burnout in first,allways in 2nd
 

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