What are the symptoms of a bad torque converter?

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DartVadar

DartVadar

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I recently got my 360 going in my dart and I've started to drive it around a bit. No issues with the motor whatsoever. But my problem is that it doesn't seem to takeoff from standing very good. Once it gets some speed it's pretty good though. I haven't really womped on it completely yet considering it's a new motor but I still feel it should have more getup.

The trans is a 999 with a tf2 shift kit in it, and unfortunately it is a lockup, but I used it because it was in good shape and has the low first gear set. I'm using the converter that was with the trans, which may have been a mistake...

I'm running a 360 with a comp xe268h, eddy heads, KB 107 pistons, Weiand intake, Holley 650 ect, it should have more go from a stop than it has, it runs strong, so the motor isn't the issue.

I have 2.92 gears in the rear so that doesn't help either. From a stop it feels like the rpms don't match the speed, the motor revs and the trans slowly accelerates and then has the go it should.

What are the symptoms that would indicate a bad converter? And is it even worth it to get a lockup converter?
 
And to add it shifts fine, but occasionally I can hear a click/light clunk when going in any gear, and this happens after it shifts, or at constant speed. Could this just be it locking up?

It also seems to die sometimes when coming to a stop.
 
Yup on the gears, I had the same issues when I upgraded the cam. It will react much better with at least some 3.55's in it. Factory high stall converter will help, or have one built to match you car.

It's doggy like you describe until it gets into the powerband of the cam and then goes pretty good.
 
You have a very similar setup to me, same intake, cam, headers, except I have a 360 with eddy heads. Once you got the 3.55s were you a lot happier with the car?

It may even have 2.76 gears, that seems more likely. It's revving at about 1700 rpm going 70 miles/hr. Because from a stop it's doggy, but when I'm cruising around in second and step on it so it downshifts it snaps your head back. It's weird though, the car is pretty fast up to speed just not for that brief moment in first. I guess it makes sense the gears are killing it.

Right now it's the stock 7 1/4 that was in the car, I have an 8 3/4 I'm going to put in, I will find a third member with some good gears, 3.91s would be nice, and should help with the getup. It also has 255 rear tires on the rear, so a lot of traction.

So would a good set of gears and a possibly a custom built converter make it fast from a stop too?
 
Bad Sport said:
Yes!
Click to expand...

Well I'm going to have to do that then! Because I was expecting more from this motor.

Would 4.10s be too much, because I think I can find a good 3rd member. I already have two, a 2.92, 3.23, but those ratios aren't high enough. Or can you swap the crown and pinion from one of those gears with some better gears?
 
DartVadar said:
Well I'm going to have to do that then! Because I was expecting more from this motor.

Would 4.10s be too much, because I think I can find a good 3rd member. I already have two, a 2.92, 3.23, but those ratios aren't high enough. Or can you swap the crown and pinion from one of those gears with some better gears?
Click to expand...

4:10's might be a bit much if you're going to do any highway driving. What does your cam sheet tell you to get for a high stall converter? Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a spec sheet to fill out and give to your converter supplier. As it's been mentioned by others, right now you've got a mis-match and that's why things aren't working as they shoud. You can get what they call a dummy lock-up converter where the lockup piston is removed so no lockup occurs.
 
3.55's are the min. gear with that cam. 3.91's would be great IMO. But they may turn to many RPM's for your Hwy. cruise. You should be looking at a stall of approx. 2000 RPM's.

He said it was a lock up 999.
 
My cam sheet suggests a 2000 rpm stall speed. And I don't really do too much highway driving so I would be fine with running 3.91 gears. So the converter is not the best but the main hindrance to my performance is the gears I would assume? But I may as well change out the converter as well.

I was planning on changing out the gears pretty soon anyway, I am just running it like this while I finish putting it together.
 
The two best performance enhancers (off engine) are gear and converter.
On an engine, the best performance enhancers are headers, cam and heads.
One the car body, front and rear suspension should be worked as a married pair. Front and rear.
Drags shocks at the rear and the front.
S/S springs at the rear, thin T-bars up front.
Rear sway bar and front sway bar.

Front and rear should be done at the same time. Then the effect is seen best.
If you can do the gears and converter installation at the same time, do so and the effect will be great.

Get one and put it to the side and wait for the other.
 
Well I have all of those modifications on the motor, but none on the drivetrain, should have seen that as a problem from day one. I will look into getting a converter built for my combo once I find some good gears.

When I put the new rear in I was planning on installing ss springs, shocks and everything anyways, I will put some new parts in the front as well when I replace it.

I just checked and I have 2.76 gears! good for highway but not much else, I guess I know why its so sluggish off the line.

Will I get that "seat of the pants" feeling with these changes?
 
I'd do the gears first,, see how it goes,, and then if you're not grinning,, put the converter in..

Yes,, you WILL feel the diff.. more like a kick in the pants.. lol

hope it helps
 
I highly recommend a 9.5" converter, flash and cruise stall, best of both worlds. PTC, dynamic, ultimate, some where in there.
 
I will get the new gears pretty soon, should love the car even more with them!

And I will look into those converters, I am going to hold off for a little bit on a converter though, because I want to spend the money and get a really good one that is matched with my car.
 
What I was expecting to pay. So can I get one for my lockup 999? Because I know the converters are a bit different.
 
How are your U-joints? If they aren't new, that could be your "clunk". The TF-2 shift kit really quickens the shifts. I didn't realize my U-joints were bad until I installed that kit. They made noise at almost every shift. You can address that when you go through the rear end.
 
burdar said:
How are your U-joints? If they aren't new, that could be your "clunk". The TF-2 shift kit really quickens the shifts. I didn't realize my U-joints were bad until I installed that kit. They made noise at almost every shift. You can address that when you go through the rear end.
Click to expand...

Never thought about that, they seemed ok when I put the driveshaft back in, but I don't even know how old they are, I just put them in because I knew I was replacing the rear soon. Also I think my 7 1/4 rear makes a clunk too, its probably that. Im just waiting for it to break essentially, will give me an excuse to get the 8 3/4 in sooner.
 
The lock-up, it will cost more, harder to find good converters for them. There's a mighty big hole going through the input shaft. I was going to do lock-up but chickened out and swapped to non-lock. Call up Martin Saine, Andre at edge, and gopnh.com as well.
 
I like the 4.10 with a 28'' tire. gear it 1st and see how the converter reacts before you spend big bucks for a new one.
 
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