broken torsion bar? what to replace with and how fun is it to do?

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tarvin890

tarvin890
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came home from work to find my 70 dart Big Block listing to drivers side..... looked underneath and the torsion bar is snapped in half.... bought the terd 2 weeks ago had a leaf spring rear mount collapse into the frame.... nice... grounded car and havent driven except home... and now this... what causes a torsion bar to snap just sitting? NEXT question with the big block what size do i need to replace them with... and how fun is it to change them....:banghead: anyone have a nice set?
 
PST I have had good experience with them on the 1.03 bars. Justd do not clamp the new bar with a vise grip to get it in.
 
halifaxhops said:
PST I have had good experience with them on the 1.03 bars. Justd do not clamp the new bar with a vise grip to get it in.
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X2 ... Drove Trailbeast's ride(Thanks,Greg!), with a set of the 1.03 bars in it. Rode really nice, and you notice a difference in handling. Considering a pair,as an upgrade.
 
Yup, mine are ready to go into the GTS with the new front end parts.
 
Torsion bars break because they have a surface flaw (scratch or rust). From what you have said about this car, it's time to take the front end apart and inspect everything and likely rebuild the front end.
 
krazykuda said:
Torsion bars never break....

You can use them forever....
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well im here to tell you i got home from work at 5 am walked into the garage and the car is leaning heavy to drivers side took a look and wow...broken in half.... craziest thing. I hope your just kidding, cause if your not.... beware... i am assuming that this being a 6 cyl car at one time they are the stock bars and one finally just gave up on the weight....:banghead:
 
Jim Lusk said:
Torsion bars break because they have a surface flaw (scratch or rust). From what you have said about this car, it's time to take the front end apart and inspect everything and likely rebuild the front end.
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looking at the and the way it broke... its def internal flaw:toothy1: ill post pic when i get it out...
 
Judging by what you said about the rear spring mount, I hope it's not the torsion bar crossmember.
 
I had one explode just sitting in the yard 440/727 combo in place of the swapped in 318
So I had to raise front end by tightening the adjuster and it snapped a few weeks later.
Turns out the PO had removed the front suspension to rob the sway bar LCAs and swapped the bars side to side
Causing it to break radially
 
74DartSwinger360 said:
I had one explode just sitting in the yard 440/727 combo in place of the swapped in 318
So I had to raise front end by tightening the adjuster and it snapped a few weeks later.
Turns out the PO had removed the front suspension to rob the sway bar LCAs and swapped the bars side to side
Causing it to break radially
Click to expand...

yeah thats what freaks me out... sunday i was under that side getting the block numbers if it had broken while i was under.....i woulda been pinned....if not worse... ill send you pics and you can tell me if the break looks like your break,,,
 
A torsion bar is nothing but a coil spring before being bent into a cork screw. Coil springs break frequently and T-bars occasionally. It happens. It is extremely important not to nick them because that's a stress riser leading to failure.
Not if, but when.
 
being broken should make removal a breeze!? what is the trick to lining up the paw and bolt that apply the pressure?
 
10 min its out heres the pics.... ouch... lets hope reinstall is as quick!!
 

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Thanks for the photos, guys. I didn't realize that the metal used in a torsion bar was so porous. Now I understand: 1. Why the paint on them is so thick. 2. Why every text I've read about removal says don't nick them but if you do, get the rust off the bar and repaint.
 
holy crap.... i have the shock undone adjuster backed out as far as it will go... flooded it with lubricant and it just wont go any further. I have the spring adjust paw pulled down as far as i can get it and its a butt hair off from going in... grrr 2 hours of fighting it im done for today... TIPS? ALSO LEFT means drivers side bar correct?
 
2 Darts said:
Thanks for the photos, guys. I didn't realize that the metal used in a torsion bar was so porous. Now I understand: 1. Why the paint on them is so thick. 2. Why every text I've read about removal says don't nick them but if you do, get the rust off the bar and repaint.
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yes pray yours stays safe.... no fun so far... im only on the 1st one..:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
If your ball joints are all still connected, remove the rubber bump stops. Will probably give you just the extra you need. And left does indeed mean driver's side...
 
Replace it with another torsion bar. It takes about 15 minutes with the right tools.
 
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