cheapest way to get hemi 3g going?

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There are a few benefits to Megasquirt:

1. Educational value, by the time you're done installing and tuning it you will truly understand how electronic fuel injection works. Right now fuel injection is largely a black box that simply works. Nothing wrong with that, it's kind of like calculating and experimenting with jets, metering rods, and power valves in carburetors, some guys want to figure out all that stuff while other guys simply want to call a carb shop and tell them their combination and bolt it on.

2. You'll save anywhere from $100.00 to $500.00. Not a lot but it adds up.

3. You'll have a fully programable setup that will meet a variety of needs. For example, MS can control staged nitrous oxide systems, allow for "flat shifting," and data logging for trouble shooting.

Benefits to Hot-Wires solution.

1. Truly plug and play that has a good reputation. The computer is fully encased and can be mounted anywhere and will not be affected by moisture or vibration.

2. Works really well with stock or near stock setups. Reliable HP. If your performance goals only include headers and a mild cam, this is probably the best solution. Yes, some tuning solutions exist, but this would be at an additional cost, raising the total price of Hot-Wire Solution another $300.00 to $400.00.

3. Wiring requires the hook up of only four wires. All the other terminals simply plug into coils, injectors or sensors.

Hope this clarifies something. There are some real risks and rewards with MS.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Thanks guys. I want 500hp. So that is my deciding factor.
I am really leaning toward hotwire, i think MS is just to much for me. Id hate to spend all that money, and have a pile of parts i can't make work.
 
Thanks guys. I want 500hp. So that is my deciding factor.
I am really leaning toward hotwire, i think MS is just to much for me. Id hate to spend all that money, and have a pile of parts i can't make work.

I hear you, my biggest fear was to end up with a $400.00 door stop.

Keep us posted on the build.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
There are a few benefits to Megasquirt:

1. Educational value, by the time you're done installing and tuning it you will truly understand how electronic fuel injection works. Right now fuel injection is largely a black box that simply works. Nothing wrong with that, it's kind of like calculating and experimenting with jets, metering rods, and power valves in carburetors, some guys want to figure out all that stuff while other guys simply want to call a carb shop and tell them their combination and bolt it on.

2. You'll save anywhere from $100.00 to $500.00. Not a lot but it adds up.

3. You'll have a fully programable setup that will meet a variety of needs. For example, MS can control staged nitrous oxide systems, allow for "flat shifting," and data logging for trouble shooting.

Benefits to Hot-Wires solution.

1. Truly plug and play that has a good reputation. The computer is fully encased and can be mounted anywhere and will not be affected by moisture or vibration.

2. Works really well with stock or near stock setups. Reliable HP. If your performance goals only include headers and a mild cam, this is probably the best solution. Yes, some tuning solutions exist, but this would be at an additional cost, raising the total price of Hot-Wire Solution another $300.00 to $400.00.

3. Wiring requires the hook up of only four wires. All the other terminals simply plug into coils, injectors or sensors.

Hope this clarifies something. There are some real risks and rewards with MS.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

I can also say approx the same thing about the (used) Holley system I'm fiddlin' with, and in fact, now drive every day. (Dry today and 30'sF, just drove to lunch)

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=209528&highlight=commander

Holley Commander system bought used 350.00

Sent to Holley to upgrade firmware / software 130.00

Innovate wideband O2 kit, 160.00

Obsolete--IBM--Thinkpad--that--I've--had--for--I--can't--remember--say, 50 bucks??

Misc hose, connectors, etc, say, another hundred?

Bear in mind that while my current setup is TBI, this system is fully capable of mpi, although, batch fired. It can be configured for a number of different ignition triggers, including crank fired, and has onboard spark control for MSD, GM HEI, others.
 
Hey guys I know this is an old post but I've been doing some research and this is the first time I'm seeing this "use jeep Cherokee manifolds" instead of the TTI's to save some cash. Considering that I want to get it running and then add a turbo setup later this would be my route to go right now. Can anyone give me a little guidance on what year/model jeep Cherokee manifolds to use so I know which ones to get. I recently found a 05 Rumblebee trans/harness/ecu/torque converter that I can pickup for $300 and save a ton of money. How can I identify whether or not the ecu has the security that doesn't allow you to mess with it? I plan on adding a cam for now to make me happy inside so no real crazy changes. Now since I can get it all for 300 and pretty handy when it comes to electronics I'm going to try my luck with making the changes to the harness myself before I go all out and get the hotwire harness, but haven't seen a reference for where everything needs to be added in for it to work in my 75 Swinger. Thanks in advance for all the help in advance guys.
 
Don't "quote" me on this but I had it in my head someone found a joint that can reflash the "security out of" a Mopar computer for a hundred or so?
 
Find a used good runnin 318 and couple the cranks together. Done.
 
The grand Cherokee manifolds you want are around 06-07 vintage, 5.7 only no 6.1. They fit with some grinding and test fitting, but are tight (as is everything, lol). I got mine from the dealer new for under $60 each. I don't know if anyone is flashing pcms for $100, that would be sweet if there was! I bought my PCM from Hotwire for 300 outright, which I thought was ok since I saved a bunch doing the harness myself. Get a donor harness and a schematic and it's not all that difficult, just a little time consuming if you do it right.
 
Www . efisource.com
done
also the stainlesworks block hugger center dump headers will make moving to turbo easiest without having to switch headers...
 
The guy I'm talking to is letting me get the harness/ecu/transmission/torque converter/fuse box/driveshaft from an 05 Rumblebee Ram. I think I'm going to try my hand at the harness first and if it doesn't work out then ill go the hotwire route. Thanks for the info on the Cherokee manifolds.
 
I wish someone would post up detailed instructions for hacking the factory harness or that someone, i.e. Hotwire Auto would produce an add-on harness. Pretty much everything on the motor runs back to one plug on the factory ECU, so there should be no reason you cant use the factory engine harness. You just need to add connections for all of the accessories and external inputs/outputs from the ECU, at least that is my take on it, sounds pretty easy to me.
 
From what i've gathered by talking to some of the guys who have already pulled it off. You can use the factory harness, you just have to spend a lot of time adding in fuses and relays where they need to be added in order for it to work. That requires a lot of time in the manuals and figuring what needs what. That's the route I will be attempting to go since I'm getting such a good deal on the harness/ecu/fuse box/converter/driveshaft/transmission from that 05 Rumblebee. If I can get it all together I could save myself thousands on this swap all together. If you go through the threads you can find some of the people who have used it rather than buying the hotwire harness. If I ultimately fail with the harness, then that hotwire harness will be the route I'm going.
 
This is the problem, people have obviously done the hard work, but nobody is sharing the details. I have the complete factory engine harness as well, seems a shame not to use what you have.
 
The info I got was hey here are the manuals figure it out. Which is why so many people go with the hotwire harness instead. If someone had a diagram or some home made drawings as to what goes where when it comes to the relays/fuses, I'm sure a lot more people would get the factory harness to work just fine and wouldn't even have to factor in $1000 harness into their budget.
 
This thread pops up every time I search on google for info, so I'm bumping it with this link.
https://www.diyhemi.com/
I'm sure it's been posted FABO a thousand times.....
The videos are hard to use on the site. If you tap the youtube icon it will make the videos user friendly.
EDIT: This still is gonna be expensive. But here is my route I'm thinking of:
Using hptuners vcm suite. That way instead of buying a part, I'm buying a powerfull tool.

Also, please dont butcher me if there is some thread with the info on here. Instead copy and post a link.

Please.
 
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The info I got was hey here are the manuals figure it out. Which is why so many people go with the hotwire harness instead. If someone had a diagram or some home made drawings as to what goes where when it comes to the relays/fuses, I'm sure a lot more people would get the factory harness to work just fine and wouldn't even have to factor in $1000 harness into their budget.

One big problem is that the factory shop manuals simply just suck LOLOL
 
I went the Megasquirt route. It’s not difficult if you have electrical experience.

"Captain Obvious" LOL. I had Holley EFI on my SB when it was running, and am "in the middle" of building an MS-2. I was referring to the FACTORY info IE guys attempting to modify factory harness setup
 
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