2 Barrel talk

Hey everyone! Wanted to research some Carb options for my slant. I got one in a trade (318 two barrel) and i think it would need a lot of adjusting to work any good. My Dad and I both like the idea of a 2 barrel with 1 primary and 1 secondary, but I'm just looking to see if anyone has used a particular variety and had good luck with it.

Thanks!

i put a 318 2 bbl on a slant before chrysler did. needs NO spical adjustments. take the stock 1 bbl manifold. grind the raised pad flush. make a 2 bbi plate 1/4 thick. with holes in the coners that are countersunk for a countersunk screw that threads into the stock manifold. and threads in the plate for the carb bolts. but the shaft MUST run parallel to the crank. with the edge of the carb plates that goes down facing the engine. unlike chrysler did. do NOT weld it. when making the linkage be sure the carb does NOT stick open. this will over rev the engine and wipe out the piston ring lands. NEVER NEVER over rev a stock chrysler engine.

You will have to make one. Or adapt something from a non-Mopar.Wait, didn't the first K-cars come with a 1+1?

It will work fine. That's a very popular upgrade.

AJ/FormS said:

You will have to make one. Or adapt something from a non-Mopar.Wait, didn't the first K-cars come with a 1+1?

Click to expand...

That right, the first K cars had a 2 barrel progressive linkage carb Holley .They did not have a vacuum secondary.

moe7404 said:

i put a 318 2 bbl on a slant before chrysler did. needs NO spical adjustments. take the stock 1 bbl manifold. grind the raised pad flush. make a 2 bbi plate 1/4 thick. with holes in the coners that are countersunk for a countersunk screw that threads into the stock manifold. and threads in the plate for the carb bolts. but the shaft MUST run parallel to the crank. with the edge of the carb plates that goes down facing the engine. unlike chrysler did. do NOT weld it. when making the linkage be sure the carb does NOT stick open. this will over rev the engine and wipe out the piston ring lands. NEVER NEVER over rev a stock chrysler engine.

Click to expand...

Chrysler never put a 318 carburetor on a slant six.

Around 1977 or 78 Chrysler introduced the Super Six engine which featured a Carter BBD 2 barrel (same TYPE as used on the 318's of the day) (some also had an aluminum intake manifold) . This combination was built for several years.

I put a 318 carb (1965-1969) Carter BBD on my 225/6 auto using a super 6 intake. Super 6 intakes come 2 ways, aluminum and cast iron. You can bet the aluminum one is cracked. No problem, have it heli-arc welded. Cost me $30.00. Iron ones are more plentiful but stupid heavy. Anyway, the swap worked great, no problems, no hassels. Good luck, TWD

rustytoolss said:

Around 1977 or 78 Chrysler introduced the Super Six engine which featured a Carter BBD 2 barrel (same TYPE as used on the 318's of the day) (some also had an aluminum intake manifold) . This combination was built for several years.

Click to expand...

No kiddin. I have had several super sixes. Their carburetor was not a 318 carburetor.

Mine has very small venturies. When I first installed the SS set-up, I was expecting more performance. I was a bit disappointed. Then I checked out that BBD. Good thing I got that set-up cheap. I eventually got it working pretty good, but with 2.76s in the back, there's only so much it can do. It does do pretty good on gas though.

See here for info on the '77-'82 US/Canada factory setup (though the article incorrectly states Holley 2280s were a factory carb—no, they were available as aftermarket replacements, but the factory setup always only ever used Carter BBDs). See the parallel 2bbl setup article for info on how to do it that way and ideas on how to mod intake manifolds—such as for a Motorcraft 2100/2150 with 1.08" venturis, which is a popular good-working swap.

Chrysler made a number of different 2bbl intakes for the \6. There were a few different versions of the '67-up export 2bbl intake (no EGR), there was a marine 2bbl intake (provisions for bolt-on waterbox heater underneath; rearmost runner not tapped for vacuum fitting), there was the cast-iron '77-up US/Canada item with EGR, the '78-'81 2-piece electron beam-welded aluminum item, and the Mopar Performance 1-piece sandcast aluminum item with slightly larger runners.

The EB-welded intakes weigh almost nothing, their low mass means they heat up nice and fast, and their runners are optimized to avoid fuel puddling and assure even mixture distribution. But their low mass means they tend to crack in the area of highest thermal stress, that is at the "hotbox" area where the intake and exhaust manifolds bolt together. And they can tend to warp at the runners-to-head mount plane if someone's overtorqued them over the years, so check with a straightedge. Moreover, some of these came through with porous welds, which caused vacuum leaks. Most of those with bad welds were long ago sent off for scrap metal. See here (post № 10) for info on how to make sure you don't have a problem at the weld bead.

The factory Super Six kickdown linkage has grown difficult to get hold of; see this thread for kickdown options.

I put a bone stock 318 BBD that I rebuilt on my slant. It ran pretty great although I never could get that damn Lokar cable setup properly. It had power close to a stock 318 and it sounded awesome. I never did fabricate a linkage to run the choke but believe it or not as long as I was driving it at least every other day, it would start right up in 35° weather with 2 pumps and would idle on its own. It didn't idle smooth but it never died. Much under 35° and I had a trusty rubber band I would install to hold the choke shut long enough to start the car. After that I could let the choke fall wide open and it would still idle on its own. It was edneckin' as all get out but I was broke after I finished the swap and didn't have any time to really do the finishing touches.

And yes I know it was probably running pig rich.