Doug's against the drivers torsion bar

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68383GTS

68383GTS

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I got my 318 dropped in the 68 barracuda.My Doug's header on the driver side is up against my torsion bar.I started using a truck mount on the driver side.Then tried the passenger car mount.The engine just needs to go over a hair some how.Maybe I can grind the tranny mount holes and push it over 1/4 inch.Any ideas on a fix? Thanks,Jim
 
Same issue I had with Dougs. I sold them. I bought them for the great "fitment". Reminded me of installing a 120.00 dollar set of cyclones...
 
if your mounts are the same as the ones on my 71 duster, you can just shim them up, and over
how many miles on the rubber mounts?
they can get worn down and lower the engine a bit
 
might have to dent the header tube a bit to get clearance. the dent will affect the value of the header, but not the performance
 
Have you looked at the lower control arm on the k frame? seemed like that could Jack a t bar over a little if it was broken out.
 
That's the problem with expensive headers, it's a lot harder to dent them to fit things. :D
 
68383GTS said:
I got my 318 dropped in the 68 barracuda.My Doug's header on the driver side is up against my torsion bar.I started using a truck mount on the driver side.Then tried the passenger car mount.The engine just needs to go over a hair some how.Maybe I can grind the tranny mount holes and push it over 1/4 inch.Any ideas on a fix? Thanks,Jim
Click to expand...

Check this link out.
Engine/Drivetrain Alignment Issues
If there are no other irregularities/damage with the car the headers should fit. To adjust the engine placement start with loosening the mounts including the brackets to the engine. Engines can be moved 1/2" or more in all directions just by doing the above. Once the engine is in the correct location use blocks of wood to hold the engine in place and tighten
the mounts starting on the passenger side first. Shims can also be used if the engine is too low in the k frame which is a common problem.
Also check this link out in case there was a past k frame repair:
K-frame damage and Exhaust Issues
Hope this helps.
 
Loosening ALL the mount fasteners, shifting the motor, and retightening can solve many issues. I have also found a carefully positioned ratchet strap can work wonders on "adjusting" (bending) a tube to get a bit of clearance, often an 1/8" is all thats needed.

I always flat file the flange for true, but that also works to adjust the "angle" the headers come away from the head, and can be used if the headers need to be closer to the block/frame.

I've found most interference issues were more often the car/rubber mount issue, than the header, not always, but more often.

hope it helps . .
 
Last edited:
inertia said:
Loosening ALL the mount fasteners, shifting the motor, and retightening can solve many issues. I have also found a carefully positioned ratchet strap can work wonders on "adjusting" (bending) a tube to get a bit of clearance, often an 1/8" is all thats needed.

I always flat file the flange for true, but that also works to adjust the "angle" the headers come away from the head, and can be used if the headers need to be closer to the block/frame.

I've found most interference issues were more often the car/rubber mount issue, than the header, not always, but more often.

hope it helps . .
Click to expand...


Greats tips!
 
Yep, loosen and shift everything around, add necessary shims, and tighten back up. Also, if you run thick remflex gaskets, tighten them up more.
 
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