Over reved alternator?

Yesterday i took my car for a spin it ran fine when i parked it .i got back in it later and i wound it up like i normally do once in awhile 6500 maybe close to 7000 going through the gears then i slowed down and noticed my gauges acting all funky .tach bounced all over and speedo to zero.so when i got home shut it off then no start.check the battery and its only 9.5 volts .it just started fine 5 minutes before so must have had 12v.so i am wondering if the high revving could cause the alternator to wreck the battery .its a 1wire 100 amp alt i think and optima battery. I rewired the whole car last year and it's been good so far. Also jump started the car and revved up abit and the alt was putting out up to 14.2v. Any help is appreciated

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No idea. Pull it off pull it apart and inspect it. "Back in the day" I blew up a couple of alternators. One day I got to thinkin, rare for me. I measured the pulley dia on the (then) 440-6 RR and it's a 4:1 reduction. This means that if the engine is spinning 5K, the alternator is going TWENTY THOUSAND.

However, the voltage regulator should "cut back" the voltage regardless of RPM, so unless something is just plain wrong, like a bad regulator, etc, the battery should not see a problem

Sounds like a bad cell in battery.

To ruin a alternator with over rev it would be from spinning the copper off the field due to centrifugal force. It is all glued down, and unlikely. The regulator should prevent over voltage, by reducing field current.

More likely is bouncing the car during hard shifts, slamming battery with a poor internal connection, or shorted cell.

My alt has been going 7000 plus for over 15 years. It has seen one new front bearing and several sets of brushes.Oh sorry, mine is a genuine 60's Mopar piece, with a divorced DC constant voltage regulator.
heehee

AJ, curious which style of voltage regulator thats been working for out good for you?
Always wondered if one lasted longer than the other.
Sounds like you've tested one of them plenty good.

^^My personal opinion is that most of the hype with the "blue things" is bullshit. People make a big thing about how they are "constant output." Well that's what ANY voltage regulator TRIES to do.....hold the output voltage constant. Someone on here made a big deal about how they "are not grounded unless you scrape off the paint." Well, DUH.

The old style "blue" looks "suspiciously" just exactly like the Standard / Blue Streak / Echlin that USED to be available for a price. I'd bet money they came right off the same line, some getting painted, some getting painted BLUE, and some chromed.

Sounds reasonable to me Dell with my zero understanding about anything inside these charging components. It wouldn't surprise me a bit about them all being made the same in one place.
May I ask this question another way? Do you prefer the old or newer style regulator/alternator system?
Say your car was to need a custom harness made up anyway and you had the choice to put in one system over the other. I have the tools and am capable of making a harness fine. I have rewired several of my cars and trucks from belden spools that worked right out of the gate but don't ask me what is inside of the regulator or alternator.
I'm thinking AJ got 15 years out of his, to me thats impressive & was curious which he was using.
On the old cars and trucks you could take the cover off and clean the contacts and adjust them if needed.
These parts with the gel poured into them baffle me.
I can't tell the good from bad.

Actually, IF you have a modern "quality" replacement regulator, I have no preference. However it "might" be easier to find "better" VR in the 70/ later variety which are good quality. Heck I have a couple around here pulled out of "working" cars when they were junked. Other than a bit grungy, they still work.