1968 dart tail light bulb

ok im gonna start by saying forgive me for a dumb question but i have 1968 dart what size bulbs do i need for the tails?? i need all 6.. no bulbs in it now for reference

Go to MyMopar. Download a FREE factory service manual. Section 8, electrical.

1157

Go to auto zone or Oriellys , they will referance it for you. I agree it is 1157.

Dan will probably kick my *** for this but the 2357 has a brighter brake light.

Trailbeast, what is your take on LED tail lights? I have read some favorable, and some people reporting electrical maladies. Seems like a good idea to use them all over your car as they consume very little current. Sorry for the partial hijack.

fratzog lover said:

Trailbeast, what is your take on LED tail lights? I have read some favorable, and some people reporting electrical maladies. Seems like a good idea to use them all over your car as they consume very little current. Sorry for the partial hijack.

Click to expand...

I run LED's in everything including my interior light. (not headlights though)
The way I did the tail and brakes were different from anything I have ever seen before since I separated the LED part of the bulb from the sockets and put magnifiers inside the lenses to spread the beam of light over the entire lenses AND made another set of brake/signal lights from what used to be the backups. (I used all red LED's in the back lights to intensify the red color)
All four lenses when the brakes are on use about 480ma (less than 1/2 an amp, and less than 250ma for front and rear signals each side)
Tail lights are still only the two outer lenses like factory.

In my dash I run 3.3 volt LED's and a voltage reducer for those powered from the OE 12v dash light circuit.
Some LED's have a resistor load built into them so they can work in a 12v system, so you have to pay attention that you are not just putting a load back into the system by resisting the voltage down to what the LED needs. (kinda pointless to run LED's if they cause the same load)

For signals the normal flasher unit relies on resistance to heat a bi metal element that bends when it gets hot and makes the contact to flash on and off.
These types of flashers don't play well with LED's that are not resisted (and even some that are)
The solution here is to use a pure electronic flasher unit, as they do not require a load to flash but just work as an on/off/on/off switch electronically.

The big huge difference when done is that the headlights don't dim (especially with a relay kit like crackedback makes) and the wipers and heater don't slow at an idle.
The signals flash at the same speed at idle also anyway with the electronic flasher unit.

I can have my headlights, wipers, brakes on, with a signal going, heater and stereo both running and nothing slows or dims at idle.
The headlights don't even blink when I hit the brakes, even though the car has twice as many brake lights as normal cars with the four lenses.

Let me add to this just a little.
This also allows my line lock switched power to light the brake lights when I press the switch for it since the load of the brakelights is so low I ran a wire with a diode inline from the relay for the line lock to the brake light switch on the pedal.
Per law, the line lock must activate brake lights when used on the street.
I did this electrically instead of wiring a hydraulic pressure switch and all the associated wiring and line cutting.
One simple wire that only allows power to flow to the brake lights, but not back to the line lock when the brakes are applied by the pedal.
It has all worked flawlessly for over 3 years, and without the loss (burn out) of one light anywhere.