No power to coil, engine turns over.

-
Oh crap, points.
What is that orange box doing in there then, because right now you have 1/2 of each ignition system in there.

I would highly recommend getting those points out of there by replacing the distributor with an electronic version.
We carry recurved and total timing limited electronic distributors that are OEM on the outside if you need one.
I get the nostalgia part that some people like, but points in a car these days?
 
Hmm... maybe its not... i will take pics when i get home this evening. thanks for all the help...

Maybe the orange box was replaced with a electronic distributor...
 
1478831487385-1427017805.jpg

There is a vacuum on the left side that isn't connected
14788317375521584765813.jpg
 
Thus definately isn't the same distributor that was in the car when me and my father restored it... i think the guy who worked on it converted it to electronic.

I went out and bought a two post and four post ballast resistor, they were $6 each why not... and an inline spark tester.
1478831963426-659758154.jpg


That would explain why the orange box and the electrical tape looks newer.
 
That is a Mopar electronic distributor. It should work fine w/ the orange ECU if everything is wired correctly. 360 vs 318 engine doesn't matter, both are small blocks. Similar to the VR, the ECU case must be well grounded to work and those rusty sheet-metal screws may not be doing it. Run a dedicated jumper to a good BATT- ground. Also, insure your engine block is well grounded, or no spark (even w/ points).

If too much fuss, might be easier and better to switch to a GM 8-pin HEI module and coil. It will work with your Mopar distributor fine and greatly simplifies the wiring (no ballast), plus stronger spark. Many posts. Cheap setup at the junkyard (85-95 GM V-8 trucks) or buy TrailBeast kit. Even easier is the $45 ready-to-run distributor (Ningboa) on ebay. Bolt and go. Many here use it.
 
This is how it's supposed to be wired, but I also see changes and disconnections.
Normally there would be a jumper from the top to bottom connectors on the left side and another wire which is cut off on the top right connector.
The top right one should come out of the harness next to the firewall and somewhat close to 12v in the start position of the key.
This diagram should be the one you need.

Not sure if that ignition box is 4 or 5 pin.
The 5th pin is not used in some boxes.

View attachment 1714988052

Traced all the wires and added the wire you drew... got that spark tester, no spark from the coil...

I need to test start position voltage vs run position voltage, i am getting 10.5 volts in run, the battery is at 11.5 volts.

Need the wife to help turn the key, but its midnight here so im callimg it a day.
 
Jhill, just so you know, 74's all came with electronic ignition. So you probably never had points in there.
 
Tell me about this TrailBeast kit?

That post above is outdated by years, so here is the current HEI info. www.classichei.com
We also have performance recurved and total timing limited OE style distributors.
Our distributors come with the Mr Gasket advance spring kit and FBO timing limit plate already installed for performance smallblocks.
They also make a big difference for stock engines, as the intial timing can be advanced for better starting and snappier response without going to far advanced at higher RPM's.

One thing I see is that it should run with the equipment you have there if it is wired correctly.
That diagram I posted for the 4 pin ballast is correct for your car.
You really do need to find that start wire and get it connected where it belongs.

Even the HEI kits require that you find it.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the help, gonna trace all the wiring down and see if i can find it.

It should be wrapped in the loom with the two brown ones that are already connected to the ballast, so follow those back to the harness and it should be right there.
(either blue or green but I'm thinking blue)
 
-
Back
Top