drilling out lugs from hub, disc brake upgrade

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Does not matter. They are the same way did them also...
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I still cant finger out why rear axle studs keep getting mixed into this thread.
Those studs weren't swedged into a hub assembly, can be smacked out with a hammer, just damn different.
 
RedFish said:
I still cant finger out why rear axle studs keep getting mixed into this thread.
Those studs weren't swedged into a hub assembly, can be smacked out with a hammer, just damn different.
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This is correct, but the studs should never be forced out the wheel-face side of the hub flange, the swaged splines are there to retain the front drums....no other reason. If one is
to be dainty about it, & is restoring the OE assy., needing to replace one or more damaged studs,..& can't bear the slightest scratch on either hub or drum face.....sure drill away.
But if You just need the studs & drum gone, I'd burn thru' all 5 of those studs in 2 minutes & knock the ***** apart w/a wafer wheel, there will be no more swage left to worry about.
 
This thread has me confused, maybe its just the varying direction descriptions that messed me up. Is there a difference in opinion on which direction the studs should be knocked out?

I would be interested in a step by step on how to remove the studs in the setup in the second picture of post 26 above (the complete KH disc hub and rotor)? I have a 4 inch angle grinder, Makita cordless drills, and several big hammers and punches - what other tool(s) would I need?
 
Cuda68Scott said:
This thread has me confused, maybe its just the varying direction descriptions that messed me up. Is there a difference in opinion on which direction the studs should be knocked out?

I would be interested in a step by step how they would remove the studs in the setup in the second picture in post 26 above (the complete KH disc hub and rotor)? I have a 4 inch angle grinder, Makita cordless drills, and several big hammers and punches - what other tool(s) would I need?
Click to expand...
Any TNT laying around?:D I kid I kid! No, the studs should always be knocked INTO the the backside area, the factory made this difficult when they swaged the splined shoulder
to retain the front drums to the hub. There are only 3 ways to remove the front drums &/or studs
1) Use a mounted stone on a dremel/die grinder & remove the swage from the stud 'till You can remove the drum &/or knock the studs in conventionally(sssloooooww)
2) The method I posted above, burn right thru the studs w/a grinder removing the swage in the process, poke 'em thru w/a punch.
3) The OP's method, which as AJ already pointed out is removing them the "wrong direction", but makes it possible by "hollowing" the splined section so that it shrinks as it is
driven through. This prevents it from broaching the hole oversize so the new studs will still bite as designed,....also ssloooooww.
 
Killer6 said:
Any TNT laying around?:D I kid I kid! No, the studs should always be knocked INTO the the backside area, the factory made this difficult when they swaged the splined shoulder
to retain the front drums to the hub. There are only 3 ways to remove the front drums &/or studs
1) Use a mounted stone on a dremel/die grinder & remove the swage from the stud 'till You can remove the drum &/or knock the studs in conventionally(sssloooooww)
2) The method I posted above, burn right thru the studs w/a grinder removing the swage in the process, poke 'em thru w/a punch.
3) The OP's method, which as AJ already pointed out is removing them the "wrong direction", but makes it possible by "hollowing" the splined section so that it shrinks as it is
driven through. This prevents it from broaching the hole oversize so the new studs will still bite as designed,....also ssloooooww.
Click to expand...

I think I solved part of my confusion on this thread by doing a little research on FABO and my factory manual on the Kelsey Hayes Disc Brake Hub . Apparently the studs for the KH hubs are not swedged and are just held in place by knurling and a press fit shoulder, and it is perfectly OK to just press the studs in and out KH Hub removal ? My 68 factory manual seems to substantiate this with instructions to press wheel studs out and in for the disc hubs. Below I have a pic of couple original KH studs (actually have KH imprinted in the top of the stud) from a KH system I purchased several months ago. I don't think the knurls on these qualify as swedges?
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The OP was removing studs from a front drum that are certainly swedged. I am still a little unclear how you remove the swedge on these front drum studs with a die grinder or swedge removal bit without burrowing into the hub. Very carefully I guess.
 
Cuda68Scott said:
I think I solved part of my confusion on this thread by doing a little research on FABO and my factory manual on the Kelsey Hayes Disc Brake Hub . Apparently the studs for the KH hubs are not swedged and are just held in place by knurling and a press fit shoulder, and it is perfectly OK to just press the studs in and out KH Hub removal ? My 68 factory manual seems to substantiate this with instructions to press wheel studs out and in for the disc hubs. Below I have a pic of couple original KH studs (actually have KH imprinted in the top of the stud) from a KH system I purchased several months ago. I don't think the knurls on these qualify as swedges?
View attachment 1715028849
The OP was removing studs from a front drum that are certainly swedged. I am still a little unclear how you remove the swedge on these front drum studs with a die grinder or swedge removal bit without burrowing into the hub. Very carefully I guess.
Click to expand...

Correct that there is no swedge at K-H hub and rotor or the later model 1 piece hub/rotor castings or rear axle flange or anywhere it wasn't "conceived as" needed.
The swedge didn't go deep into the hub. It just bonded the drum to the hub. The swedge cutter cut more drum away than stud. Replace the drum without removing/replacing studs.
This and other mechanical engineering concepts and practices ( right hand thread lug nuts being backed off by centrifugal forces when on the left side for another example ) were employed in automobiles from a-model Ford forward until proven unnecessary.
Swedge Cutting Tool | Model A Suspension and Wheels
 
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