Time to buy a radiator for my 440 Dart

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I would recommend a factory BB 033 from GlenRay's but they are not making them anymore! While technically it is not correct for my 69 it works wonderfully. Wonder why they stopped making them?
 
Ended up ordering a 3-core Champion myself, rated to 600hp, comes with duel electric fans. Should have it next week, I'll try to remember to post up pics when I get it.

CC2375
 
ir3333 said:
there are so many things that can affect cooling it can be hard to blame any one component.I had a 340 Duster that ran hot despite many attempts to get it to run cool.I purchased the Griffin muscle car rad and it solved my cooling problems.It had big half inch tig welds everywhere but looked great otherwise.There must have been complaints because now those rads have welds that are very small and neat,almost like original soldered tanks.Once the aluminum is painted black they are very nice.
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I just bought a MC526 Champion off of Advance radiator on ebay for $202 shipped to the house for my 440 Duster and it is working nice. It also bolted right up to the core support.

DSC00045.JPG
 
It came in yesterday, well packed and beautiful. Only negative is fans are made in China.
 
ToMang07 said:
It came in yesterday, well packed and beautiful. Only negative is fans are made in China.
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Most electronics are. Even on "American Made products"

Harley Davidson - American Made (half Asian)
 
roccodart440 said:
Most electronics are. Even on "American Made products"

Harley Davidson - American Made (half Asian)
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NOT TO CHANGE THE THREAD, BUT DON`T IT PISS U OFF, WHEN U BUY AFTERMARKET SPEED PARTS and IT`S GOT METRIC BOLTS ?!? 48 yr old car w/ metric stuff ? sucks!
 
Gamedog said:
I went with a Champion 4 Row. Had to drill 2 driver side holes, as they didn't match the factory holes. Other than that, the radiator has been working flawlessly with a 16" Spal electric fan (also sourced through Champion).

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OK , lets beat this up some more . Are you running big or small block and whats the P/N on your radiator. I'm looking at the Champion/ Eagle AE2375 I have a Taurus fan. i'm running a BB about 550/600 HP. I've read so much I'm getting gun shy . I want to stay with 22"
 
zigs said:
OK , lets beat this up some more . Are you running big or small block and whats the P/N on your radiator. I'm looking at the Champion/ Eagle AE2375 I have a Taurus fan. i'm running a BB about 550/600 HP. I've read so much I'm getting gun shy . I want to stay with 22"
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You're catching on..... the reports of 'I used such and so' don't tell the story at all. The fans, spacing from the rad, shrouds, hood seal to rad core support, engine compartment size, head material type, headers or not, and compression ratio all play into something working or not.

Example: My son's 65 Cuda 340 with AL heads and headers and 10.1 SCR does NOT cool adequately with a 3 row, 22" wide Champion, even with a good shroud and a couple of different mechanical fans. It just gradually gets hotter and hotter at 75 MPH cruise on the interstate and pushes 20-25 degrees past the t'stat temp. It is fine cruising around at low speeds. That indicates an overall lack of airflow into/through the small early A engine compartment, even with a good hood to core seal, or the rad does just not transfer enough heat, or the A/C condensor blocks up the flow. So our next steps are to open up the engine compartment to more air flow: get a scrappy hood and open up the hood with some holes on the back edges and see if that gets enough air flow going through the compartment.

BTW, I am not all that impressed with Champions and the 3/4" tubes. 1" and larger tubes just plain transfer more heat.

And just don't get misled by the HP ratings on radiators. A '600 HP' rating is usually just for a 600 peak HP car running down the 1/4 mile on one pass with an undefined ending coolant temp and an undefined air temp with undefined fans, etc.. Those radiator manufacturer ratings are useless for steady running, except for relative sizing, and don't account for all the other parts and installation factors that effect cooling. It is not at all the same heat load as running 80 MPH on the interstate, putting out a steady 130-150 HP to push the car through the air.
 
you can't say " Chinese " quality is poor anymore.Some are but many factories operate at quality levels now.
Now having said that, it would be nice to have everything made in North America...but it's economics.
 
nm9stheham said:
You're catching on..... the reports of 'I used such and so' don't tell the story at all. The fans, spacing from the rad, shrouds, hood seal to rad core support, engine compartment size, head material type, headers or not, and compression ratio all play into something working or not.

Example: My son's 65 Cuda 340 with AL heads and headers and 10.1 SCR does NOT cool adequately with a 3 row, 22" wide Champion, even with a good shroud and a couple of different mechanical fans. It just gradually gets hotter and hotter at 75 MPH cruise on the interstate and pushes 20-25 degrees past the t'stat temp. It is fine cruising around at low speeds. That indicates an overall lack of airflow into/through the small early A engine compartment, even with a good hood to core seal, or the rad does just not transfer enough heat, or the A/C condensor blocks up the flow. So our next steps are to open up the engine compartment to more air flow: get a scrappy hood and open up the hood with some holes on the back edges and see if that gets enough air flow going through the compartment.

BTW, I am not all that impressed with Champions and the 3/4" tubes. 1" and larger tubes just plain transfer more heat.

And just don't get misled by the HP ratings on radiators. A '600 HP' rating is usually just for a 600 peak HP car running down the 1/4 mile on one pass with an undefined ending coolant temp and an undefined air temp with undefined fans, etc.. Those radiator manufacturer ratings are useless for steady running, except for relative sizing, and don't account for all the other parts and installation factors that effect cooling. It is not at all the same heat load as running 80 MPH on the interstate, putting out a steady 130-150 HP to push the car through the air.
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That's probably the most sensible thing I've read in a long time. Many factors in cooling.
Here's a small run down of what I have. BB 470 about 550 HP , 10/1 comp. Aluminum heads(Edelbrock open chamber) stock water pump, I beleive 7" crank pulley and 6 3/4 water pulley. At last running at idle , took 20 min to get to200 ford fan kicked in at 185 preset fan pulls mass air on low , air was hot, blowing into engine . Big engine small compartment. I do have a hood scoop but that only works when cars in motion , I'm not against louvering or drilling holes in inner finders to let air pass. I just sold the radiator I had in it. Looking for new and as always on a budget. I've read all the radiator threads till I'm blue in the face. I'm thinking 26" but don't want to move the battery . It looks like the battery tray can move ahead some , only part that would be close would be inlet as I have pass side lower outlet. These are just ideas has anyone tried them.
 
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