Pulled the valve cover today anyone ever see this stuff?
- Thread starter desy500
- Start date
-
Well, it's not something One can "tell" another easily, practice makes perfect. I usually work the feeler in from the side w/a sliding motion, then when it's centered in the
blade, I pull it straight out. It should provide a slight amount of resistance when You do, it shouldn't just slip in & out easily, that's the best I can do Dude!
[QUOTE="Killer6, post: 1971854281,
So it looks like the cam PO had put in the slant is an Erson RV10 , so I looked it up on their web site and found they sell a RV10M fits all 3 mopar slants . It states valve lash at .022 for all valves . Glad I found that info before I used .010 and .020
So it looks like the cam PO had put in the slant is an Erson RV10 , so I looked it up on their web site and found they sell a RV10M fits all 3 mopar slants . It states valve lash at .022 for all valves . Glad I found that info before I used .010 and .020
lemondana
BlackDart
In the past whenever I would see that, I'd ask the owner what type of oil they used-the answer would always be Pennzoil.
Shaun65dart
Well-Known Member
I since changed the oil and everything looked fine. I have also pulled the valve cover and it looks fine too. I believe it was from sitting for awhile and not being driven much
gdizzle
Well-Known Member
I cant believe no one else mentioned , but I think it is cheese.
I'm not sure how far back that past is, but in the '80's, the answer was Quaker State. I'd pull the valve covers off of a 302 Ford, and the oil gushed out because none of it
could make it back to the pan! It looked like someone melted a box of candles over each head then bolted the covers back on! If I remember the API threatened to pull the
certification off of them because they were cheating on the additive/detergent package in the delivered product vs what was submitted for approval. The phenomenon just
magically happened to dwindle away, there is something to be said for oversight......................
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
There are all kinds of stories about oil. Most, if not all the problems were from improper maintaince, ie PCV not functioning, improper oil change interval, short trips not allowing the engine to get to proper temp, etc. I ran Quaker State in every car I owned (including my race cars), from 1974 till about 2003, and never had an oil related problem.
PS: including my 86 Toyota PU I used to tow my race car, and just retired at 412,000 miles. Valve went bad.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Interesting you brought up Quaker State.... the 351C I pulled from the j-yard in '74 had Quaker State labels all over under the hood and it looked terrible on the inside; gunk and crud caked up high an all in the crankcase. (But not the water-caused gunk that the OP showed.)
About 10 years later, I was reading a MIL spec on an engine oil and it explicitly prohibited oils from Pennsylvania bases due to the higher paraffin levels. So my conclusion is that the issues with Pennzoil and Q-S were real. The results may have indeed differed on your oil change habits, engine operating temps, etc. Later PZ and QS moved away from the PA based crudes (presumably as those deposits ran out or became uneconomical to recover) so we don't see any such issues today.
About 10 years later, I was reading a MIL spec on an engine oil and it explicitly prohibited oils from Pennsylvania bases due to the higher paraffin levels. So my conclusion is that the issues with Pennzoil and Q-S were real. The results may have indeed differed on your oil change habits, engine operating temps, etc. Later PZ and QS moved away from the PA based crudes (presumably as those deposits ran out or became uneconomical to recover) so we don't see any such issues today.
In defense of Quaker state, I had an 80 Civic I bought brand new, and I had 205,000 miles on it using Q.S. religiously. I would change oil every 3000 miles, my commute was 50 miles one way, so when I got home I would change the oil knowing the oil was very hot. I hate to admit it but best car I ever bought. Never changed timing belt, fan belts, thermostat or clutch. Got rid of car because I was afraid I'd start it one day and every thing would let go. I did change water pump because if it went, head gasket would go. Never had to add oil between changes.
So I put everything back together , and checked the pvc and hoses , all were clear , but felt nothing sucking from either carb where the pvc hoses were attached ( I rebuilt both carbs and they are clean , and pulling 18-19 # at the vacuum advance ports ) So before I pull the carbs off to see if I screwed up the gaskets , do you know if the offy intake has the holes in it to line up with the carb , and gasket ? I looked at pix of new ones for sale on the net , and they don't have the hole like the stock intake has ? Any recommendations would be great!
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Could not tell you on that manifold. Certainly needs to be some vacuum through the PCV at idle. I am not quite understanding the 18-19 in vacuum at the V-A port.... is this with the engine revved? If at idle, that is not standard Mopar V-A.
BTW, I see a connecting metal bridge between the 2 intake halves, with what looks like a blocking screw in a threaded port. What is that for?
BTW, I see a connecting metal bridge between the 2 intake halves, with what looks like a blocking screw in a threaded port. What is that for?
#1 My BAD , ( I am new at this ) that vacuum is on the nipples where the choke pull off is not the V.A.
#2 I have no ideal , The offy was on it when I bought the car. But I am thinking , maybe I can tap that for the pcv ?Looks like Who ever worked on this engine before I got it , knows less then I do about engines , originally they had a t off from the pcv going to the carbs , and the brake booster , I changed that after / six Dan told me that was WRONG. I should have checked for vacuum from the ports it was connected to at that time , But I didn't.
Last edited:
Had a customer with an old ford. Changed oil faithfully and drove it every day. Lost oil pressure. Pulled pan.enough crud to block oil pickup screen. Scraped pan and replaced oil pump, cleaned pickup and refilled with quaker as he insisted. Some people set in their ways.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Maybe you can pull that plug and see if there is manifold vacuum there.
BTW, where are you checking for vacuum for the PCV? Right at the port on the carb base? If not then check, right at the carb base port. I just can't remember if that PCV port goes direct into the carb base under the throttle plate, in which case the intake would not matter, or if it turns down through the gasket.
BTW, where are you checking for vacuum for the PCV? Right at the port on the carb base? If not then check, right at the carb base port. I just can't remember if that PCV port goes direct into the carb base under the throttle plate, in which case the intake would not matter, or if it turns down through the gasket.
OK Dude, I went back and looked at the photo of Your set-up, how did You get 3/8" hoses on those carb fittings? Did You "bush" them with smaller tubing? Even with both
of those sources( in working condition), they will not flow enough to properly circulate air through the crankcase, and the ports face flat-down on the gasket surface..which
means You have two options;
1) Use the proper PCV hose ports on the other side of the carbs w/the 3/8" tubes & tee them as such.
2) Get vacuum to the fittings You are using(which are for the heated air door control on the OE air cleaner assy.) & hope that they work well enough together.
To do #2, You either need to drill a corresponding hole in the carb pad & gasket(punch) on the intake for each, or notch the throttle bore adjacent to each port well.
If You need a vacuum source for power brakes, if there isn't a threaded hole in the intake for a 3/8"NPT/hose barb fitting, put one in it.EDIT: Right under the name Offenhauser, that's where, a 90deg fitting should do it.
The hose on the other side of the carb stud is for the choke pull-off which should have vacuum without any accommodation in the gasket/intake, but again insufficient. 2nd EDIT: I see the pull-offs hooked up, but what is controlling the chokes? Cables, added electric, nothing??
The small vacuum tube closest to the large PCV tube is the vac advance port source for the dizzy, the other tube out under the bowl is for a canister purge.
If You have a small tube right above the accelerator pump arm, that is venturi vacuum, You won't be using that for anything.
Last edited:
Last edited:
Thanks for your reply , Check out my reply to killer6 with pictures. Picture 4 shows the 2 holes / ports in the carb , but the picture of that intake only has the 2 bolt holes ?
Last edited:
OK, I see which version You've got now, the best plan for proper PCV is to use those large OE tubes with equal length hoses teed directly to the valve. There were thick
gaskets, at least 3/8" thick that had a cutout where the hole in the carb base is to expose it to manifold vacuum, but You probably don't want to do that. That leaves
notching the carb base adjacent to the port, or drilling a hole through the carb pads on the intake into the plenum using a gasket to locate them. Where You have it at
cyl.#6 You're forcing #6 to eat & burn all of the crankcase vapors and altering it's A/F ratio, probably shortening the plugs life span. You could use that to run to the
booster instead, tho' the source in the crossover plenum probably would provide a more even vacuum supply. The notch in the gasket (upper left) is providing the vac
to the pull-off & the economiser (power) valve at the other end of the channel in the base.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Right ports for PCV but no connection to manifold as observed. Any reason not to get the thicker gaskets. Or drill down into the manifold under those holes, if the gasket will seal well. And agreed on not just using the #6 port for the PCV.
Some retuning is in order after this gets fixed. Glad you found it and will have a properly operating PCV; it'll extend engine life.
Some retuning is in order after this gets fixed. Glad you found it and will have a properly operating PCV; it'll extend engine life.
-
