Full Re-Wiring Job - Help, Ideas & Sources needed.

-
SouthernDart

SouthernDart

Active Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Messages
29
Reaction score
2
Location
Ecuador
I need to do a full re-wiring on my RestoMod. Would like to have high quality appropriate Gauge wiring harnesses, Fuse Boxes to replace factory wiring that is looking pretty bad (Fire waiting to happen)

Please comment your ideas, experiences, and Sources on:

* Wiring Harnesses (Full or Partial) / Fuse Boxes
* Preventive (Safety ideas I can throw in)
* Donor systems that are "Compatible" maybe salvage a Donor Wiring system from a decent wreck?

Any and all help welcome.

Thanks
 
First off it's a huge job. I've done it. Second, no kit exists that has everything you need in it. Some will say they do, not a single one does. So expect to buy more wire, connectors, heat shrink, etc. BUY GOOD WIRE! GXL or TXL wire only. Don't buy cheap PVC coated wire unless you want to do it again later.

I used an American Auto Wire harness universal kit. It was colour coded for GM but they make Mopar color coded ones now. Don't expect to find sockets, as they are difficult to use, you might be able to rebuild the sockets by buying pins and such... If you lucky to find new sockets that fit light housings and such...get them!

Make sure you soder and heatshrink everything. It's much better to do it correctly now then having to chance down a short.

I have some pictures of my re-wiring on my build thread, linked in my signature.

Riddler
 
Evans wire carries good stuff but do not make the main harness.....I also used Year One.....replaced my entire system....do not remember having to add any wiring....all sets were a direct replacement and pretty easy.
 
Get a piece of plywood and some large finishing nails. Lay your existing harness on the plywood and trace around it with a pencil and then drive the finishing nails in the outline. It helps if you label where the wires end up (horn, lights etc.)

FMfEJOl.jpg


With the harness on the board, remove the tape and then start replacing wires one at a time. If you plan it out, you can add wires or increase the size of any wires you want at this time.

Rewrap the harness with non-adhesive tape like this stuff. ELLIOTT ET501, 1" BLACK NONADHESIVE TAPE, HIGH TEMP VINYL WIRE HARNESS OEM FS | eBay

I've done a couple cars like this, including a 53 Windsor that I used cloth covered vinyl wire. The picture shown is from that car.

BTW, I've seen the plywood and nails method used for making new harnesses lots of things, like radar and sonar equipment.

While this place caters to older (pre 1959), they have a lot of supplies and sell wire by the foot. They also have a lot of assorted colors with and without the tracer stripes. Quality stuff too. Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc.

For relays, be sure to use the real Tyco/Bosch relays and not the cheap Chinese brands. Here's a good deal on them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P61E36/?tag=joeychgo-20

Use sockets like these for the relays.

s-l500.jpg
 
Good info in the above posts. Considering where you are, ordering from the US may not make sense if you can find same things locally.

The point about General Purpose automotive wire is important. That insulation is not for engine compartments. The -XL wires are for higher temperature and oil/gasoline environments. Marine grade wire is also pretty good.

Because it is a Resto-mod, this may change things from stock. The design of your new wiring harness must consider the modifications. If there is new equipment, additions to the stock design may or may not work well or safely depending on how it is done and what the equipment. I like the stock design, but it is not always appropriate. There are situations where a different approach will work better and safer.
 
GPT wire will last plenty long in these environments, especially because we tend to take better care of the cars now than in the first 40 years of there life. I build harnesses and never solder anything except under certain circumstances. Vibration is a KILLER for soldered connections. Different approaches from different people.

American Autowire, Francis, and others offer kits. Painless has been less than the name suggest for everyone I know that has ever used their kits.

The board is a GREAT tip for layout.
 
crackedback said:
Painless has been less than the name suggest for everyone I know that has ever used their kits..
Click to expand...

This is true. also many of the non-factory kits don't support Mopar type connectors in any fashion, IE example you must cut the original turn signal switch connector off and use "theirs."

On that note, you can buy the terminals for the many of the original Mopar connectors, they are called "Packard 56" There are some different types you must be careful to get the correct ones. I bought some from "clips and fasteners" they were great....

Packard 56 Series Male 16-14 Gauge Terminals GM 2971962
 
American Autowire has a restomod kit. It’s not a huge job. I’m an idiot and it was easy. Very easy.
 
Awesome help and tips.


This morning I found an Auto-Electrician with over 20 yrs experience in Toronto. So we mapped out all needs / wants and specs.

Pricey, but I'll trust my ride. ;)

Many thanks to all.
 
SouthernDart said:
I need to do a full re-wiring on my RestoMod. Would like to have high quality appropriate Gauge wiring harnesses, Fuse Boxes to replace factory wiring that is looking pretty bad (Fire waiting to happen)

Please comment your ideas, experiences, and Sources on:

* Wiring Harnesses (Full or Partial) / Fuse Boxes
* Preventive (Safety ideas I can throw in)
* Donor systems that are "Compatible" maybe salvage a Donor Wiring system from a decent wreck?

Any and all help welcome.

Thanks
Click to expand...
THANK YOU I NEED HELP TO ON THIS :popcorn:
 
I differ from Crackedback but to each their own. Much has to do with doing things proper whether it be proper soldering techniques or using the right connectors and crimping tools. I have wired many a harley and custom bike and butt connectors are not a real good solution in high vibration environments and are more prone to corrosion intrusion. I either use tinned connectors, crimp and solder or, pull sheaths and tin the connectors myself. But connectors tend to add more resistance to a line then soldering which is not a big issue with our cars, but can be if you're dealing with an ECM or body control module on later model stuff where stuff works off a very narrow voltage range. I'm probably over anal but I also like to loom up, route, and support the wiring so that I don't have it holding itself up by the connections or terminal ends. Whether soldered or connectors they need support or they can fray at the end of the joint. Oftentimes when unwrapping a factory harness you'll find a plastic gizmo or a length of wire that is looped or folded and taped back in at y joints etc. It's there to support the joint.

Heat shrink, terminal ends, wire tires, junction blocks or plug ends etc. can add a good chunk of change to the project.
 
Last edited:
As said VG info. keep the same "colors/colors with tracers" as OE. some circuits you wanna go larger. I prefer to crimp & solder. I set the harness on the floor & built a new harness right next to it & added one wire to the new one as I cut the wire off of the old one till the new one takes shape & the old one dissappears & the board tip is excellent. Also confirm the ground paths (wires & metal to metal contact), have good continuity. It will be a HUGE job but when done you'll be glad for your dedication/precision.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top