Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit

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RichardJ916

RichardJ916

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Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit with adapter...
I would like to know if when ordering this kit :
1: Which of the 2 would you also get 1 1/32 or 15/16 Bore
2: Will I keep the distribution block that's mounted to the fender wall the same, its the little part under the master cylinder that feeds the front and the rear lines.
 
RichardJ916 said:
Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit with adapter...
I would like to know if when ordering this kit :
1: Which of the 2 would you also get 1 1/32 or 15/16 Bore
2: Will I keep the distribution block that's mounted to the fender wall the same, its the little part under the master cylinder that feeds the front and the rear lines.
Click to expand...

master-cyl.jpg
 
I replaced my stock master with one. I think 15/16 bore. I have dics up front and drum in back. Yes I kept stock disb block. It’s a nice up grade. Stock master with fluid weight was 8 pounds! Change it and don’t look back.
 
n.y.340 dart said:
I replaced my stock master with one. I think 15/16 bore. I have dics up front and drum in back. Yes I kept stock disb block. It’s a nice up grade. Stock master with fluid weight was 8 pounds! Change it and don’t look back.
Click to expand...
That's what I was hoping to hear, you are happy with it ha? I am so tired of the leaking caps.
 
That's the same master you can get for a 1987 ram, have it on my dart just need the adapter plate think I got mine from Dr. Diff
Just FYI
 
halifaxhops said:
That's the same master you can get for a 1987 ram, have it on my dart just need the adapter plate think I got mine from Dr. Diff
Just FYI
Click to expand...

The problem with the truck (and most car ) replacement master cylinders is they are generally 1 1/8" bore. That's fine for power brakes but OP picture indicates no power boost. 1 1/32" or 1 1/8" bore will give very hard pedal with no PB! The 15/16" bore will give better stopping power although with a little more pedal travel. I believe Dr. Diff is the only source for the 15/16" bore unit.

I have the aluminum 15/16" bore on my 72 Demon (drums with No PB) and even with the adapter block the pedal returns all the way with the standard push rod.
 
Mancini sells them also, that’s where I got mine. Yes my stock pedal rod worked.
 
Definitely 15/16.

My 68 has 73-75 front discs and 10x2-1/2 rear drums.
I have had 1-1/8, 1-1/32 and 7/8 bore MC's on this combination all run manually. I liked the 7/8 bore the best because it gave a nice, easy, linear feel.

Currently running a NOS Direct Connection 1-1/32 aluminum to save weight. It could be a little less hard for me but it's fine. A 15/16 should be perfect!
 
halifaxhops said:
That's the same master you can get for a 1987 ram, have it on my dart just need the adapter plate think I got mine from Dr. Diff
Just FYI
Click to expand...

Piston is bored to accept manual brake push rod retaining ring.

Doctor Diff told me he bores the piston out so the factory rubber retaining ring will work with the A body etc brake pedal rod. If I remember right the Latter Dodge truck ones were not
 
I know that I used a generic later one for a B body manual conversion.
86 or 87 from the auto parts store IIRC.
The brake rod worked right.
Rubber fit no mod.
 
I used an MC from a 95-99 Plymouth Breeze w/ ABS, 7/8" bore ($25 new) for manual brakes. My 1964 pedal rod locked into place (w/ new rubber bushing) and put the pedal at the factory height. I used the 2-4 bolt adapter plate shown ($30 ebay). I re-used my 1964 distribution block, but just as a tee for the fronts, w/ adapters. Your plumbing should be almost a direct fit.
 
famous bob said:
I HAD TO LENGTHEN MY MASTER CYL. PUSH ROD THE SAME AMOUNT AS THE THICKNESS OF THE OFFSET ADAPTER BLOCK.
Click to expand...
Not trying to hijack, but I was thinking about the same swap. These push rod questions have me thinking. Could incorrect push rod length be the cause of this? My brake pedal sits way higher than the accelerator. I am running a disc m/c now but can’t remember if I changed the push rod or not.

I had wondered if the adjustable push rod dr diff sells might correct the pedal difference. If so it would be all the more reason to buy the m/c shown above at the same time and do the swap then.

53AB1D97-E564-4214-9927-F849A226D120.jpeg
 
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