Recommended coolant type

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famous bob said:
I`m not going to try it due to the cost. How do they feel about it on the dragstrip/ They sure don`t like antifreeze !
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Don't care. I don't have to race my ****. If the dick that runs the track wants to write checks to fund my ****, then he can tell me what coolant to run.

Can't tell you how many times I've sat in the car strapped in and waiting because some dickbag with an automatic decided not to spend a few bucks and buy nice fittings but instead used hose clamps. Took forever to clean up 3000 feet of jacked up mess.


So the track can eat my root. They don't even have to know. It's a fother mucking street car and the **** is legal for sale and use in street cars.


Did I mention I HATE track ****? The only thing in this world that I actually hate and its tracks, people that own the tracks, the bitches that work there, and sadly, in my old age, I don't care for most people at the track.
 
brian6pac said:
I read a lot about Evans and read a lot of bad things about it. Some good but in general not worth the $$
Here is a post from the H.A.M.B.

Evans NPG+ coolant - snake oil or miracle product?
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So you went to another forum to find information and based your usage on that? I'm ok with it, as that's what happens here. I'd say there isn't more experience on that forum than there is here.

I'll say this though. There are way more reasons to use it than not. I also use an ME Wagner PCV valve and AFAIK I was the first here to actually promote the use of them. And I got killed because the "cost" was outrageous when you can go to the local parts store and get a junk one that isn't adjustable.

Same with Evans. The cost is a killer. The fact you can't add water is another, although you CAN add water in an emergency you just waste a load of coolant and you need to buy the kit to get the water out of the system when you fix the issues.


The **** works. It removes heat better. It never needs changing. It requires ZERO pressure in the system and that right there was the number ONE selling point of the ****. Pressure in a cooling system is an issue. It's hard on the core plugs, hose clamps, and the hoses themselves.

There are more reasons to use it than not. Unless you are just cheap.
 
yellow rose said:
So you went to another forum to find information and based your usage on that? I'm ok with it, as that's what happens here. I'd say there isn't more experience on that forum than there is here.

I'll say this though. There are way more reasons to use it than not. I also use an ME Wagner PCV valve and AFAIK I was the first here to actually promote the use of them. And I got killed because the "cost" was outrageous when you can go to the local parts store and get a junk one that isn't adjustable.

Same with Evans. The cost is a killer. The fact you can't add water is another, although you CAN add water in an emergency you just waste a load of coolant and you need to buy the kit to get the water out of the system when you fix the issues.


The **** works. It removes heat better. It never needs changing. It requires ZERO pressure in the system and that right there was the number ONE selling point of the ****. Pressure in a cooling system is an issue. It's hard on the core plugs, hose clamps, and the hoses themselves.

There are more reasons to use it than not. Unless you are just cheap.
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I have to agree with you about the tracks, but when we were putting together the 29 sedan delivery I looked into Evans and told the guy that owned the car to buy it, he was the one that sent me some neg reviews on it, so then I looked up Evans and started reading about it and reading every thing that came up and there was a lot of people that had leaking problems, mostly old cars old style engines so he oped out of buying it. With out pressure in the system your not concerned about cavitation?
 
brian6pac said:
I have to agree with you about the tracks, but when we were putting together the 29 sedan delivery I looked into Evans and told the guy that owned the car to buy it, he was the one that sent me some neg reviews on it, so then I looked up Evans and started reading about it and reading every thing that came up and there was a lot of people that had leaking problems, mostly old cars old style engines so he oped out of buying it. With out pressure in the system your not concerned about cavitation?
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Nope. I haven't had any cavitation issues. Yet. If you knew my luck you'd know that anything that can go wrong, does, and what is impossible to ever happen always happens to me. I know this because I can't count the number of times I've heard "you're the only guy in the country who has ever had this problem".

So I'm sure if it's going to happen it will, and if it may happen if will. It just hasn't happened yet! LOL
 
Thanks guys for all the feedback. Indeed here because of the high temperatures antifreezee is not an option. I will look into what type of coolant can be an option or even distilled water with some sort of lubricant. My car just get driven to the track ocassionaly, and that is like a 15 min drive. And raced on the track. So long street drives is not a concern.
It is a street and strip vehicle, however is pretty much used only on the track and barely on the street.
 
yellow rose said:
Don't care. I don't have to race my ****. If the dick that runs the track wants to write checks to fund my ****, then he can tell me what coolant to run.

Can't tell you how many times I've sat in the car strapped in and waiting because some dickbag with an automatic decided not to spend a few bucks and buy nice fittings but instead used hose clamps. Took forever to clean up 3000 feet of jacked up mess.


So the track can eat my root. They don't even have to know. It's a fother mucking street car and the **** is legal for sale and use in street cars.


Did I mention I HATE track ****? The only thing in this world that I actually hate and its tracks, people that own the tracks, the bitches that work there, and sadly, in my old age, I don't care for most people at the track.
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Dam, grump old fart aren`t u ? About the same way here, kinda fed up w/ nhra and their chevy one sided crap. Mine is a street car too , like frank Sinatra sang, I DID IT MY WAY.
Cant tell u how many times I waited on them to clean the track after a chevy blew up.
And had to run behind one of the HOARD of camaros that dumped gas all over the starting line , because of the gas cap behind the license tag. We had enough traction problems the way it was anyway.
I don't attend anything but mopars in the park now, and of course church.
 
Jax said:
Thanks guys for all the feedback. Indeed here because of the high temperatures antifreezee is not an option. I will look into what type of coolant can be an option or even distilled water with some sort of lubricant. My car just get driven to the track ocassionaly, and that is like a 15 min drive. And raced on the track. So long street drives is not a concern.
It is a street and strip vehicle, however is pretty much used only on the track and barely on the street.
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yeah I try not to listen to the people that bark the loudest. You might even find out they haven't even been to the track in over 12 years. Again keep it simple, nothing out cools water. And again a little bit of lubricant.
 
Jax said:
Thanks guys for all the feedback. Indeed here because of the high temperatures antifreezee is not an option. I will look into what type of coolant can be an option or even distilled water with some sort of lubricant. My car just get driven to the track ocassionaly, and that is like a 15 min drive. And raced on the track. So long street drives is not a concern.
It is a street and strip vehicle, however is pretty much used only on the track and barely on the street.
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I think you'll find the only debate on the water will be whether it should be distilled or dionized. Most well water has small inorganics that can precipitate out. We call it 'hard water' if it has a lot. Public water also has things like chlorine. Not alot but enough. I'm pretty sure you'll have little trouble finding an additive locally or at least easily brought in.

Ask if the the corrosionb inhibitors are inorganic or organic acid technology. If its the latter, then I think its best to make the catch can into a recovery can so no air gets into the radiator.
 
Mattax said:
I think you'll find the only debate on the water will be whether it should be distilled or dionized. Most well water has small inorganics that can precipitate out. We call it 'hard water' if it has a lot. Public water also has things like chlorine. Not alot but enough. I'm pretty sure you'll have little trouble finding an additive locally or at least easily brought in.

Ask if the the corrosionb inhibitors are inorganic or organic acid technology. If its the latter, then I think its best to make the catch can into a recovery can so no air gets into the radiator.
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I lived with my GF from 1982-1985 and she was a blond. Except at our house. She became a red head. There were so many minerals in the water it turned her hair red. The water was 100% nasty. Dishwashers, water heaters...anything like that didn't last very long. That water ruined everything.

I have well water now and it is about perfect but that water was nasty.
 
j par said:
yeah I try not to listen to the people that bark the loudest. You might even find out they haven't even been to the track in over 12 years. Again keep it simple, nothing out cools water. And again a little bit of lubricant.
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Yeah, going to the track proves what? I can show you 20 guys at any track who've been going for decades who can't use a timing light.

It's not always about what transfers heat better. There is more to cooling than that. But I know you know that from your extensive time at the track.
 
yellow rose said:
Yeah, going to the track proves what? I can show you 20 guys at any track who've been going for decades who can't use a timing light.

It's not always about what transfers heat better. There is more to cooling than that. But I know you know that from your extensive time at the track.
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Well I know I can also show you 20 guys on the internet who can't use a keyboard.
I know if I use that kind of coolant and that kind of oil and that kind of clutch and all the other things at top dollar that are suggested I'm almost positive I would have great results. Please remember not all of us are world-class checkwriters...
 
yellow rose said:
I lived with my GF from 1982-1985 and she was a blond. Except at our house. She became a red head. There were so many minerals in the water it turned her hair red. The water was 100% nasty. Dishwashers, water heaters...anything like that didn't last very long. That water ruined everything.

I have well water now and it is about perfect but that water was nasty.
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St Johns? Or Vancouver?
 
famous bob said:
Personally, I don't want any higher temps., 50/50 or a little weaker in the summer, and 50/50 in the winter, along w/ alum. protector of some sort.
As a sidenote, I drove a 2002 dodge quadcab, for 15 yrs. w/ the same antifreeze in it, never had any problems w/ that truck, except front wheel bearings, and had to put a cheap ebay radiator in it because the plastic to alum. seam started leaking. Always had to add a little for winter tho.
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On your old Dodge truck radiator, there is a large "0" ring that seals the plastic to aluminum. It is actually easy to change.
 
j par said:
St Johns? Or Vancouver?
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Out on the island. Only well in the area that was that horrible.

Wait a minute?????? WTF in St. John's has a well? There are no wells in St. John's. Unless you count all the **** hole watering holes, dives and grease spots that are all through that place. Well, used to be before gentrification set in.

Lots of grimy watering holes in St. John's.
 
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