rollor cam in 340 ?

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Nothing really, you can either go with a hydraulic or solid roller cam design based on what you're trying to achieve. I ran roller cams on the street all the time, I just asked they come with a cast distributor gear on them so i could run a std distributor gear and not a bronze one.
 
you just buy a rollor cam with a cast dist. gear and put it in with rollor lifters and your done?
 
The one thing to watch out for on a 340, is the lifter bores. If you decide to go with hydraulic roller lifters, make sure to check the top of the lifter bores and make sure they don't have too much taper. The taper will expose the lifter oiling band and cause the lifters to not pump up. This is mostly a 340 issue. The 360 blocks from the mid 70's are cast a little different and not as prone to this issue. If you go with solid roller lifter, no worries.
 
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you just buy a rollor cam with a cast dist. gear and put it in with rollor lifters and your done?
You also need shorter pushrods, correct valve springs to match the cam, check your piston to valve clearance, adjustable rockers and you may have to clearance the push rod pockets in the heads as the pushrod geometry changes.
 
you just buy a rollor cam with a cast dist. gear and put it in with rollor lifters and your done?


Well................something I did not see mentioned is that you MUST have a roller setup COMPATIBLE with a 340 block. You can NOT use OEM type Magnum rollers, they are retained by a "spider" device which requires machining in the block. Rollers which work for a 340 are specifically made for that purpose "aftermarket". Each two lifters is "tied" together by a mechanical link to hold them in alignment.
 
300 for a cam
380 for lifters
89.00-104.00 for springs
Retainers? Add 50.00 and double that if new locks are needed.
 
Cam, lifters, springs, pushrods. Maybe head work to have the guides cut down. Depending on size of cam, new converter and gears. It's a snowball effect that will cause you to spend more money than originally planned.
 
Cam, lifters, springs, pushrods. Maybe head work to have the guides cut down. Depending on size of cam, new converter and gears. It's a snowball effect that will cause you to spend more money than originally planned.
Beyond the pushrods... you're now talking combo matching. Correct equipment for the cams rpm range aside... he only needs the parts listed and shorter push rods.

He could have a roller ground to work with what he has 'hypothetically'
 
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