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CRAMAR

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I bracket race a 15 second duster with a 318.I run 1/4 mile ant time I can..Does any body just leave the transmission is second and shift right after the finish line?Car is faster just gotta get the RPM'S up.Okay have at it....
 
What do you have for rear gears and rear tire size?
 
You should probably shift and then roll off the throttle. With that tall of a tire you could use a 4.56 gear or so and go through the traps at 4000+. I don't have a calculator handy.
 
I switched from a 2.76 to a 3.23 in my Swinger. Then went from 14" to 255 60 x15's. :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:
There went my gear ratio.
 
Just off the top of my head, you need at least a 4:10 gear with that size of tire.
The plan is to be crossing the finish line in top gear at about 5,000 to 5500 R.P.M. if the engine is stock or fairly stock.
I'll bet it's a dog off the line.
And i would start out in first and manually shift it at 5,500 R.P.M., that would be a good start.
However, if you are bracket racing and want consistency, leave it in drive and leave the line at the same R.P.M. every time using the same burnout with the engine at the same temperature and let the transmission shift itself.
You should win a lot of races with consistency.
Who cares what E.T. the car runs, consistency wins races if that's what you are after...........
 
I bracket race a 15 second duster with a 318.I run 1/4 mile ant time I can..Does any body just leave the transmission is second and shift right after the finish line?Car is faster just gotta get the RPM'S up.Okay have at it....
calling 318willrun....calling 318willrun...
 
I bracket race a 15 second duster with a 318.I run 1/4 mile ant time I can..Does any body just leave the transmission is second and shift right after the finish line?Car is faster just gotta get the RPM'S up.Okay have at it....
I cross the line in 2nd gear (well, sometimes....) with my 2.76 geared 318 Duster and 2.45 geared 360 Duster. Most of the time I shift about 100 ft before the finish....

Tell us more about your build
 
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If you are bracket racing, just drive it the way it's the most consistent, and don't worry about going faster. Consistency and a good dial in wins bracket races, not speed.
 
I cross the line in 2nd gear (well, sometimes....) with my 2.76 geared 318 Duster and 2.45 geared 360 Duster. Most of the time I shift about 100 ft before the finish....

Tell us more about your build
72 duster 318 mild cam 600 eddy 340 manifolds eddy performer intake.I drive it to the track.Electronic ignition...
 
If you are bracket racing, just drive it the way it's the most consistent, and don't worry about going faster. Consistency and a good dial in wins bracket races, not speed.
I can get beat by a very fast car in open comp even if i am on my dail and cut a light.
 
I can get beat by a very fast car in open comp even if i am on my dail and cut a light.
The same thing happened to my daughter Dany this last year.
Much faster car dials in a few seconds slower than her max speed dial in, then just catches her and coasts by at the stripe for the win...
This was with a 2bbl 273.
We are building a Magnum for it over the winter. With any luck everyone will assume it's the same high 16's car it was last year!!
 
Your letting the fast car get in your head. If you cut a good light, and run on your dial, you will win more than you loose.
 
72 duster 318 mild cam 600 eddy 340 manifolds eddy performer intake.I drive it to the track.Electronic ignition...
72 duster 318 mild cam 600 eddy 340 manifolds eddy performer intake.I drive it to the track.Electronic ignition...
What's the mph ? What rpm do you shift at? Tune it. The car should not be in the 15's. Where are you running in the 15's?
 
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I can get beat by a very fast car in open comp even if i am on my dail and cut a light.
I disagreed with ya, because if you tree your competition, and you run your dial, you should win. Only way to lose is if they cut a better light, and (or) they run closer to their dial. In other words, you cut a .000 light and run a 15.42 on a 15.42 dial, you win.
 
The same thing happened to my daughter Dany this last year.
Much faster car dials in a few seconds slower than her max speed dial in, then just catches her and coasts by at the stripe for the win...
This was with a 2bbl 273.
We are building a Magnum for it over the winter. With any luck everyone will assume it's the same high 16's car it was last year!!
He would lose, he dials slower than her, she runs her number but he gets to the stripe first. With comparable RT he would have had to break out. If he dials the same as her he might be able to nip her at the stripe, but not a margin to live on.
Cut a light and run the number. My car is shockingly consistent. It will routinely run the same et down to .01 difference. I average .05 on a pro tree, but can bring that down a touch if I really try. I will take those odds at your average track no matter how fast my opponent is. Honestly just don’t go red, just count the number of redlights you see in competition. Most people beat themselves.
 
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I can get beat by a very fast car in open comp even if i am on my dail and cut a light.
There is a guy at my local track that takes his 17.5+ second Ford truck (6 cylinder) to the winners circle all the time in Sportsman...but he really knows how to drive the stripe.

On the flip side...I may or may not have been "that guy" who dials 12.0 in Sportsman (with my 10 second car) and catches the competition by the 1000' marker and holds them off by a fender for the W.........with that said, no matter how you chose to drive your car (dial it hard, or soft), you MUST cut a good light to be competitive, and you MUST learn how to drive the stripe if you want to have an edge on the competition and not have to rely on your car running the number.

For the record....I only did that a hand full of times when I didn't feel like running Pro...some of the Sportsman guys gave my grief about switching classes, others said BRING IT ON!...it was all good fun. My friend in the 17+ second truck sent me home early a few times.
 
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