I see you responded with your usual load of horse puckey, glad I missed it the first time around. Same made up "facts", same fundamental misunderstanding of how the suspension on these cars actually works.
I've don't need to "go under my car" to confirm that you're wrong, I've
been under my car because
I installed all of those parts. The LCA's do not slide backward on the pins. This is because my strut rods are the correct length, and the strut rods are what locate the LCA. That's how it works.
When an OEM bushing tears, the pivot pin flops around
radially inside the LCA shell. That's why the car wanders, because the LCA is now moving all over the place. That is not at all what happens with a poly bushing. Properly installed, the LCA pivot is tight in the poly bushing which is tight in the outer bushing shell, so there's no radial slop like with a torn rubber bushing. If the poly bushing has been installed with proper length strut rods, it doesn't slide back either. So you get none of the problems of a failed rubber bushing, that's just not how it works.
I do my own alignments, they have always held. I check the entire travel of my suspension for binding, irregular movement, etc when I install new parts and when I set my alignment. None of the made up BS you're always crowing about has ever been a problem on my car. That's because I understand that poly LCA bushings are not the same as rubber bushings. Which is why I install greaseable pins and adjustable strut rods. Poly bushings have less give, so, the suspension geometry must be more accurate to work properly. No hiding behind big rubber factory bushings to make up for loose tolerances, the strut rods have to be the right length to keep the LCA from binding or moving backward. And unlike the rubber bushings, with poly bushings you have two surfaces sliding on each other. That requires lubrication. The OEM bushings are just getting away with using the flex in the rubber.
Your camber adjusting bolt failed because the flat wasn't cut far enough down the shaft of the bolt, it's right in the picture. The threads stripped because the washer bottomed out before it was snug against the UCA mount. The bolt didn't fail because it was weak, the bolt failed because the alignment shop over-torqued the nut. The washer held up short of the mount, the bolt wasn't holding the end of the UCA in place, and in an attempt to fix the issue they torqued the living daylights out of it. Clearly the bolt wasn't machined properly. But if anyone bothered to compare the new bolt to the old bolt they'd see the problem. And, why are you blaming it on the alignment shop? I thought you knew all about this stuff. The UCA wandering around in the mount should have been
very obvious. The kind of obvious you fix before you hit the drag strip. Improper installation, improper maintenance- just like I said before.
Finally, they didn't "encase" the OEM bushings. The OEM LCA bushing is not what keeps the LCA from sliding off the pin. The strut rod does that. It limits the backward travel of the LCA. If it didn't, the rubber in the OEM bushing would tear and the LCA would fall off the pin. I've seen that with old failed rubber bushings. Pull the torsion bar and loosen the strut rod and the LCA falls right off of the back- pin still in the K, inner shell on the pin, LCA on the floor. The bushings were never intended to keep the LCA on the pin, that's not why they're there. The strut rod does that, and just in case, the torsion bar is the backstop. You think the rubber keeps the LCA in place? You can't even torque the LCA unless it's at ride height or the bushings tear. Clearly the rubber doesn't keep the LCA on the pin.
View attachment 1715414453
This is hilarious. So, you scam people into buying new bushings because, like you, they don't understand that the strut rods and torsion bars are what actually hold the LCA's in place when the car is going down the road. "Hey look, if I remove everything that holds the LCA onto the car the LCA falls off". No kidding, really?! :realcrazy:
That's like telling a guy he needs new brake pads because they fell out of the caliper when you pulled the caliper off the rotor. "Wow this is serious, you don't want the pads falling off the car!" When you pulled the caliper you pulled everything holding the pads in place. Properly installed it can't happen. Same exact deal for the LCA. Disassemble half the suspension and the LCA comes off. Yeah, that's how that works, you took everything holding it in place off the car, so it comes off the car.
"Quality" Moog parts
Moog LCA Bushings
Moog LCA bushings
LCA bushings shot
Lca bushing help.
That's the same exact brand that has done tens of thousands of miles on my cars. When I switched my Duster over to Delrin LCA bushings the $9 energy suspension LCA bushings looked brand new still, that particular set had at least 10k on them. I think the set on my Challenger has more than double that on them. Heck the red poly energy suspension "C" bushings on my old F100 have been there more than ten years, I've had the truck over 11 years and they were there when I bought it.
Curious, were you using them with adjustable strut rods and greaseable LCA pins? Poly bushings need to be lubricated, they are not like the OEM rubber bushings. Different material, and a different design. If poly bushings are not properly lubricated they will wear out, the pins rotate in the bushing. If the bushing dries out, that friction will kill the bushing. They also have to fit tightly in the shells. That's actually the biggest drawback of the bare poly bushings, they depend on the factory tolerances of the original bushing shells. If they don't fit tightly, they won't work properly. That's why the new proforged poly bushings come with their own shells.
Regardless, the last set of Moog bushings didn't last 5 years. And that was before they changed the manufacturing on them, now it's hit and miss if the inner shells even fit the pins. The links I posted above show all the issues Moog is having now. Rubber bushings are no guarantee.[/QUOTE
