Lca bushing help.

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Dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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I pressed in my lca bushing on one side the pin fit in the bushing fairly snug but not pressed fit i just
Just assumed once it was pressed it would be tight but the I got it pressed in and the pin still slides out. That can't be right. What's going on?

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I'm interested to see what's going on here? For whatever reason it's been awhile or a year at least I thought it was all one piece.. of course this is absolutely no help whatsoever but again I'm curious..
 
I'm interested to see what's going on here? For whatever reason it's been awhile or a year at least I thought it was all one piece.. of course this is absolutely no help whatsoever but again I'm curious..
When I took them apart the center piece of the bushing was pressed on to the pin! There was the shell that i you have to weld the nut to and press out of the lca one rubber part and then the center metal part. The center i had to chisel off the pin! Now it's like the new bushing is smaller than the pin? I hope I didn't eff up and buy the wrong bushings!
 
What brand bushing, had the same issue with stock replacement Moog. Switched to a poly bushing and anchored the torsion bar.
 
Consider these points... All too often the D.I.Y. guy would tighten the press fitted parts in the wrong position then when the arm moved to ride height position the rubber in the bushing ripped apart.
Aftermarket poly urethane bushings are slip fit too, yet seem to work.
I don't know if your aftermarket mfgr took any of this into consideration.
Personally, I might rather have this fitment along with greaseable pivot pins.
 
Consider these points... All too often the D.I.Y. guy would tighten the press fitted parts in the wrong position then when the arm moved to ride height position the rubber in the bushing ripped apart.
Aftermarket poly urethane bushings are slip fit too, yet seem to work.
I don't know if your aftermarket mfgr took any of this into consideration.
Personally, I might rather have this fitment along with greaseable pivot pins.
So do you think its safe to use it like this?? I thought the pin had to be pressed into the lca?
What brand bushing, had the same issue with stock replacement Moog. Switched to a poly bushing and anchored the torsion bar.
They are moog.
 
Give it a little time and look on the suspension part of the Forum and maybe quote a couple of the people who frequent and know about the stuff...
Right now we don't need Woulda Coulda Shoulda...
 
I've done several sets of these, and I've never had this problem. That's not to say I haven't had ANY problems; the whole system is problematic :mad:.
It almost sounds like the wrong bushing, but then spl440 says he's had the same problem. Give me the brand and model number of the bushings and I'll see if they match what I used successfully.
 
I just drilled the aft torsion bar mount for a set screw. there is so much tension there, doubt it would move anyway.
 
Give it a little time and look on the suspension part of the Forum and maybe quote a couple of the people who frequent and know about the stuff...
Right now we don't need Woulda Coulda Shoulda...
Yea i agree! I have plenty of time to figure it out I'm just doing as much busy prep work I can possibly do before warm weather hits.
 
I've done several sets of these, and I've never had this problem. That's not to say I haven't had ANY problems; the whole system is problematic :mad:.
It almost sounds like the wrong bushing, but then spl440 says he's had the same problem. Give me the brand and model number of the bushings and I'll see if they match what I used successfully.
I believe they are moog let me look at my rock auto account they came from there.
 
The LCA shaft, or pin, (whatever you want to call it) is supposed to be a press fit into the bushing.
Not supposed to come right out.
That's not good.
Lots of people have been complaining as to the quality of those MOOG bushings in this day and age.
Me too, in my rebuilding of brake and suspension parts.
I have been using bushings from a company named Proforged, that i have been buying from Rock Auto.
I know your working, putting that suspension back together, but can you afford more down time, and order new bushings?
good luck, my 2 cents worth, on the subject.
Jim V.
hemi71x
 
The LCA shaft, or pin, (whatever you want to call it) is supposed to be a press fit into the bushing.
Not supposed to come right out.
That's not good.
Lots of people have been complaining as to the quality of those MOOG bushings in this day and age.
Me too, in my rebuilding of brake and suspension parts.
I have been using bushings from a company named Proforged, that i have been buying from Rock Auto.
I know your working, putting that suspension back together, but can you afford more down time, and order new bushings?
good luck, my 2 cents worth, on the subject.
Jim V.
hemi71x
Thank you for replying I was hoping you would I have read alot of your posts and you really seem to know your suspension and steering stuff!
For me safety and drivability is #1 priority so if you say its unsafe then I will take it back apart and buy more for sure!
 
Ok so I just checked my rock auto account and I am mistaken. The lca bushings I bought are Ultra-Power brand.
My uca bushings are moog! They are the offset ones.

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I just looked on the Rock Auto site as you got me curious as to this Ultra Power company LCA bushing.
Well, appears that you purchased the cheapest bushing that's advertised on the Rock Auto page.
Not to say that's good or bad, but maybe it's the reason that your now noticing a problem on the installation of the parts.
Poor quality made off shore parts.
Rock Auto shows that they have Proforged rubber bushings available.
I haven't anything go wrong with the Proforged ones, when i ditched buying the Moog ones.
 
I just looked on the Rock Auto site as you got me curious as to this Ultra Power company LCA bushing.
Well, appears that you purchased the cheapest bushing that's advertised on the Rock Auto page.
Not to say that's good or bad, but maybe it's the reason that your now noticing a problem on the installation of the parts.
Poor quality made off shore parts.
Rock Auto shows that they have Proforged rubber bushings available.
I haven't anything go wrong with the Proforged ones, when i ditched buying the Moog ones.
Yes lesson learned! I will go with the proforge ones.
 
The big question for me is Will RockAuto warranty this defective part? Especially after an installation. Unfortunately this was the only way you'd find out if they were bad...
 
I think that was the one area where I used the Moog bushings. of course I was under the misunderstanding that these were Quality Parts. Figuring I would only want to get in there once but could change cheap ball joints easily if needed. Considering how much I actually have the car on the road...
 
Consider these points... All too often the D.I.Y. guy would tighten the press fitted parts in the wrong position then when the arm moved to ride height position the rubber in the bushing ripped apart.

Yeah. In other words, install nuts finger tight when putting the assemblies into the car. Torque the shaft nut and strut rod nut with the weight of the car on the suspension and the tires on the ground. Per the FSM. (Factory Service Manual)
 
So do you think its safe to use it like this?? I thought the pin had to be pressed into the lca?

They are moog.
OEM bushings were press fitted shells inside and out. I only pointed out that todays conception is they don't absolutely have to be press fitted to function, plus a close slip fit can benefit the end user.
Yeah. In other words, install nuts finger tight when putting the assemblies into the car. Torque the shaft nut and strut rod nut with the weight of the car on the suspension and the tires on the ground. Per the FSM. (Factory Service Manual)
Hanging around here several years reveals how many owners/D.I.Y.ers don't read or understand whats in a FSM. Some have failed to properly support the OEM type bushing and press it apart too.
So... I'm just guessing/suggesting the bushings in question here are "idiot proofed" by the mfgr. Will install much like upper arm bushings.
 
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I think that was the one area where I used the Moog bushings. of course I was under the misunderstanding that these were Quality Parts. Figuring I would only want to get in there once but could change cheap ball joints easily if needed. Considering how much I actually have the car on the road...
I just recently learned that moog was trash parts! Pisses me off because iv spent a fortune on moog over the years I put moog everything on everything I drive! Always have! Now they want to start making shitty parts and charging three times as much. Kinda like that wheel hub iv replaces 3 times this year!!
 
I just completed mine with greasable poly bushings from PST. I'm having the same issue. The bushing isn't nearly as tight as the original bushings were. They can't go far if the torsion bar clips are in place, but seems as though they wouldn't last as long.
 
The LCA shaft, or pin, (whatever you want to call it) is supposed to be a press fit into the bushing.
Not supposed to come right out.
That's not good.
Lots of people have been complaining as to the quality of those MOOG bushings in this day and age.
Me too, in my rebuilding of brake and suspension parts.
I have been using bushings from a company named Proforged, that i have been buying from Rock Auto.
I know your working, putting that suspension back together, but can you afford more down time, and order new bushings?
good luck, my 2 cents worth, on the subject.
Jim V.
hemi71x

I am doing a set of the proforged on a 71 dart are you happy with those? I need to also know it looks like the proforged will have new outer shells and new bushings slotted for grease and I guess the new pins forego the inner sleeve and the pin then becomes the pivot point on the bushing? No instructions available to me from anywhere. Thanks. I am planning on using energy poly strut rod bushings up front with the curved washer facing away from the bushing also correct? Thanks
 
I am just throwing a question out there......what potential problem would a bushing that fits like that cause? In other words, once assembled, the control arm is trapped with no place to go. I kinda like the idea of drilling a hole straight through the shell, bushing and inner shell and screwing a grease fitting into the outer shell. Seems to me a slip fit in the inner shell would take any binding away that might happen with a press fit.

Of course, I could be totally off base. I simply present the idea for discussion.
 
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