But almost no steering or suspension parts available. 1's or 2's left in stock.
Parts Sourcing for Front Suspension Rebuild
- Thread starter dusterman440
- Start date
-
When I get a chance I will cut two different brands down the middle. That would be the only way you will all see what the difference is. If your driving on smooth roads and only bringing your cars out for shows or cruises. go with what ever you want . But daily drivers should use quality parts. made with quality metal.
If I was selling new parts for profit. I would never tell you the negatives on them. I would go out of business . Do I blame the sellers ? No I do not that is their livelihood.
When my son and I had our ATV shop we would push our products from suppliers. Would we use them on are race quads? No not a chance we knew what was a failing part. We didn't even use poly bushings that we sold. Greasable Heim ends were more expensive but they would last a lot longer.
That could be why they only use greasable heim ends on sprint cars. They were the only product used on our chassis's. You all can use what ever you want. Just take your safety seriously. It is you and only you that will suffer the consequences.
And believe me the poly lower arm bushings do not hold the arm in place securely. As easy as you slip it in .It will slip out. I had upper poly bushing they were fine. Not the lowers or the struts. Waste of your money. Every car that comes here with them on. I pull the front of the strut rod bushing off for the customer it is easy with a short air gun. While they are standing here. Once they see that bushing is gone where it fits through the K-member.and how you can pry the lower arm off of the control arm pin. I get a job replacing the bushings. worked out great for me. that is how I made money replacing junk parts.
The most important thing on installation on OEM style bushing is to tighten all bushing bolts and nuts while at ride height. This prevents bushing failure from over twisting it in one direction. If you tighten them while on the lift or jack and the arm hanging down. When the arm goes to the bump stop it tears. They need to be tightened neutral where the arm can travel in both directions the same distance. Preventing it from tearing .
If I was selling new parts for profit. I would never tell you the negatives on them. I would go out of business . Do I blame the sellers ? No I do not that is their livelihood.
When my son and I had our ATV shop we would push our products from suppliers. Would we use them on are race quads? No not a chance we knew what was a failing part. We didn't even use poly bushings that we sold. Greasable Heim ends were more expensive but they would last a lot longer.
That could be why they only use greasable heim ends on sprint cars. They were the only product used on our chassis's. You all can use what ever you want. Just take your safety seriously. It is you and only you that will suffer the consequences.
And believe me the poly lower arm bushings do not hold the arm in place securely. As easy as you slip it in .It will slip out. I had upper poly bushing they were fine. Not the lowers or the struts. Waste of your money. Every car that comes here with them on. I pull the front of the strut rod bushing off for the customer it is easy with a short air gun. While they are standing here. Once they see that bushing is gone where it fits through the K-member.and how you can pry the lower arm off of the control arm pin. I get a job replacing the bushings. worked out great for me. that is how I made money replacing junk parts.
The most important thing on installation on OEM style bushing is to tighten all bushing bolts and nuts while at ride height. This prevents bushing failure from over twisting it in one direction. If you tighten them while on the lift or jack and the arm hanging down. When the arm goes to the bump stop it tears. They need to be tightened neutral where the arm can travel in both directions the same distance. Preventing it from tearing .
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
I got the PST rebuild kit. Everything you needed is there. A lot of the stuff was in plastic bags with Moog part numbers. The OEM style lower control arm bushing and Poly bushings both included. The Poly bushings slid right into the old outer LCA shell. The pin slid right into the bushing, little if any resistance. I had to press the pin into the OEM style and press the bushing into the LCA. Very tight, tight is good. Plus Poly was not recommended for Pennsylvania roads.
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
R/T Specialties - Mopar Fasteners, Clips&Hardware
One thing I remember was not in the kit is the split pins for the strut rods. This guy has them. He sells Mopar stuff and drives an E body Challenger.
One thing I remember was not in the kit is the split pins for the strut rods. This guy has them. He sells Mopar stuff and drives an E body Challenger.
Sounds like PST got their **** together then. And the recommendation of factory style bushing on pa. roads is a good thing. At least they are honest. Good to know. Tightening parts at ride height should also be added to instructions if its not there. Moog parts are a big plus. Now I may even by a kit for the Demon. But I will never use the poly struts without the metal ring imbossed into them.
This is what I mean by you learn every day. I am old and I am sceptical from past parts from other venders . I still have some boxes. Does "Energy suspension" ring a bell. with red parts.
Well I see the American flag is where the car was manufactured and not where the parts were made. I ordered a few Delco pieces for my Swinger thinking they were USA made but nope. Made i Taiwan. Nicely constructed though. I noticed the adjusting sleeves has grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts. The idler arm and tie rod ends were all greasable. All looks good.
Decades ago we complained of Jap parts, now we think they are great and maybe so. The Chinese could make quality if they wanted to.
Taiwan make some quality parts. My son uses Taiwanese Micrometer and tooling . He says they are very good. China not so good.
66jim
Well-Known Member
Funny you should mention Japanese parts from decades ago where called Jap Crap
now they are considered high quality. I told this to my 32 year old son who is a Honda guy and he looked at me like huh? Makes me wonder what Asian country is the next
quality producer of goods or garbage. Things today are changing at very fast!
We teach them how to do it well. The old China wrenches were so crude but pretty tough. Now, most of the big tool companies have tools made there and the quality is quite good.
I wonder who made that fuel filter for my Dodge Cummins that split rig down the bottom. Puking out diesel for many miles on a Sunday afternoon in nowhere Texas!!!!!
I bought all Chinese tools for work No one would steal them. The only proplem I had was the chrome peeling.
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
......................
Square castle nut ???
Looks like it but no it's hex with cotter key.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
I need to do a follow-up here. When I put the front end together, I used the cheapest poly set I could find. These were the sort where all of the existing shells had to be re-used. Later I was able to get the front end set for the max positive caster I could get out of it. What I have less than 30 days afterwards is a popping noise and a wheel with too much negative camber. The poly bushings I installed about 10 years ago are disintegrating. They were okay for shuffling the car around with an eye-ball alignment. Not okay for a well tuned set-up, IMO. If someone were to offer me a set of Energy Suspension bushings, particularly a set that had to be built up using existing shells, I would say. "No thank you." I have used PST before with good results, new ones are on the way.
I see you responded with your usual load of horse puckey, glad I missed it the first time around. Same made up "facts", same fundamental misunderstanding of how the suspension on these cars actually works.
I've don't need to "go under my car" to confirm that you're wrong, I've been under my car because I installed all of those parts. The LCA's do not slide backward on the pins. This is because my strut rods are the correct length, and the strut rods are what locate the LCA. That's how it works.
When an OEM bushing tears, the pivot pin flops around radially inside the LCA shell. That's why the car wanders, because the LCA is now moving all over the place. That is not at all what happens with a poly bushing. Properly installed, the LCA pivot is tight in the poly bushing which is tight in the outer bushing shell, so there's no radial slop like with a torn rubber bushing. If the poly bushing has been installed with proper length strut rods, it doesn't slide back either. So you get none of the problems of a failed rubber bushing, that's just not how it works.
I do my own alignments, they have always held. I check the entire travel of my suspension for binding, irregular movement, etc when I install new parts and when I set my alignment. None of the made up BS you're always crowing about has ever been a problem on my car. That's because I understand that poly LCA bushings are not the same as rubber bushings. Which is why I install greaseable pins and adjustable strut rods. Poly bushings have less give, so, the suspension geometry must be more accurate to work properly. No hiding behind big rubber factory bushings to make up for loose tolerances, the strut rods have to be the right length to keep the LCA from binding or moving backward. And unlike the rubber bushings, with poly bushings you have two surfaces sliding on each other. That requires lubrication. The OEM bushings are just getting away with using the flex in the rubber.
Your camber adjusting bolt failed because the flat wasn't cut far enough down the shaft of the bolt, it's right in the picture. The threads stripped because the washer bottomed out before it was snug against the UCA mount. The bolt didn't fail because it was weak, the bolt failed because the alignment shop over-torqued the nut. The washer held up short of the mount, the bolt wasn't holding the end of the UCA in place, and in an attempt to fix the issue they torqued the living daylights out of it. Clearly the bolt wasn't machined properly. But if anyone bothered to compare the new bolt to the old bolt they'd see the problem. And, why are you blaming it on the alignment shop? I thought you knew all about this stuff. The UCA wandering around in the mount should have been very obvious. The kind of obvious you fix before you hit the drag strip. Improper installation, improper maintenance- just like I said before.
Finally, they didn't "encase" the OEM bushings. The OEM LCA bushing is not what keeps the LCA from sliding off the pin. The strut rod does that. It limits the backward travel of the LCA. If it didn't, the rubber in the OEM bushing would tear and the LCA would fall off the pin. I've seen that with old failed rubber bushings. Pull the torsion bar and loosen the strut rod and the LCA falls right off of the back- pin still in the K, inner shell on the pin, LCA on the floor. The bushings were never intended to keep the LCA on the pin, that's not why they're there. The strut rod does that, and just in case, the torsion bar is the backstop. You think the rubber keeps the LCA in place? You can't even torque the LCA unless it's at ride height or the bushings tear. Clearly the rubber doesn't keep the LCA on the pin.
This is hilarious. So, you scam people into buying new bushings because, like you, they don't understand that the strut rods and torsion bars are what actually hold the LCA's in place when the car is going down the road. "Hey look, if I remove everything that holds the LCA onto the car the LCA falls off". No kidding, really?!
That's like telling a guy he needs new brake pads because they fell out of the caliper when you pulled the caliper off the rotor. "Wow this is serious, you don't want the pads falling off the car!" When you pulled the caliper you pulled everything holding the pads in place. Properly installed it can't happen. Same exact deal for the LCA. Disassemble half the suspension and the LCA comes off. Yeah, that's how that works, you took everything holding it in place off the car, so it comes off the car.
"Quality" Moog parts
Moog LCA Bushings
Moog LCA bushings
LCA bushings shot
Lca bushing help.
That's the same exact brand that has done tens of thousands of miles on my cars. When I switched my Duster over to Delrin LCA bushings the $9 energy suspension LCA bushings looked brand new still, that particular set had at least 10k on them. I think the set on my Challenger has more than double that on them. Heck the red poly energy suspension "C" bushings on my old F100 have been there more than ten years, I've had the truck over 11 years and they were there when I bought it.
Curious, were you using them with adjustable strut rods and greaseable LCA pins? Poly bushings need to be lubricated, they are not like the OEM rubber bushings. Different material, and a different design. If poly bushings are not properly lubricated they will wear out, the pins rotate in the bushing. If the bushing dries out, that friction will kill the bushing. They also have to fit tightly in the shells. That's actually the biggest drawback of the bare poly bushings, they depend on the factory tolerances of the original bushing shells. If they don't fit tightly, they won't work properly. That's why the new proforged poly bushings come with their own shells.
Regardless, the last set of Moog bushings didn't last 5 years. And that was before they changed the manufacturing on them, now it's hit and miss if the inner shells even fit the pins. The links I posted above show all the issues Moog is having now. Rubber bushings are no guarantee.
For someone who talks horse **** yourself. I would like to know how your struts with a swivel , Fastened to the outside of the control arm prevents the inside of the control arm from moving front to back? And you talk about horse ****.
Take those torsion bars off and install coil overs and see how long your control arms stay in place with your swiveled strut rods holding the outer part of the arm only. The swivel takes away the triangulation of the engineered system. Why do you think guys are always looking for different style lower for coil overs ? because the bushings do not hold them in place without the torsion bars. The arm rely's on the torsion bar which has a built in 1/4" travel for wrap. Add poly's with lube and you make it worse. I always see you make up stories about how professionally your cars are built by you. Why ? because you bought and paid for junk and what ever is on your car has to be the best . No Compromise ever!
Now, Come back with a three page comment now because you won't have a professional answer to prove your ignorance. Only a put down and how "your" car is so perfect when you put "your" car on "your" alignment rack. Really?. If you own one roll-along tool box I'd be surprised. I picture you as being one of those professionals that carries a plastic box with an organized tool set from autozone. Or did you upgrade to metal. LOL
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I have harbor freight wrenches that had the weight and feel of my other Snap On wrenches. They even have flank drive on the box ends. Sure the chrome isnt as perfect as Snap On, but it isnt peeling off either and I use the heck out of em. I have even done the double wrench breaker bar hooking an open end into a box end for more leverage to em in a pinch, and havent broken them. I also buy the china freight "screamers" the 90° air die grinders. I run the **** out of these daily and get about 3 years out of one. 20% off Super coupon and an on sale price of $9.99 well thank you, dont mind if I do lol, and I buy a replacement or 2 and keep em on the shelf handy when an old one spits its gears. Years ago i originally bought a "professional" 90° air grinder off the tool truck. Still made in Taiwan, only thing it had going for it at $89.00 was the warranty. Never again. I get 2-3 years out of a $9 "screamer" when it quits, i remove the mandrel , and air fitting, and toss it in the scrap bucket.
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moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I wouldent put a rubber bushing in any one of my cars. Never had bad luck with poly insert bushings and leaving the outer shells alone. My 94 chevy pickup has had energy suspension insert bushings in the front upper and lower arms and rear leaf springs for the better part of 18 years and no problems. I have seen aftermarket camber bolts where the flat for the washer was not cut far enough down like the OEM ones are, that's why I have several good sets of the OEM UCA camber bolts that I have cleaned up in evaporust and have in storage for both cars. I wouldent use a rubber LCA bushing if my life depended on it. I have a set of firm feel bushings w greasable LCA pins for both cars, and adjustable strut rods for both as well.
I saw as usual you disagreed with my post This time about Chinese tools. I stated I bought them for work so no one would steal them as they did expensive tools. After time the chrome would peel. But I see you know that they would steal them and they didn't peel. You know everything I guess. Even what you can't know at all about my tools and my work. That would be the only thing you would have to disagree with. Grow the fluck up. Troll someone else.
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
I see you responded with your usual load of horse puckey, glad I missed it the first time around. Same made up "facts", same fundamental misunderstanding of how the suspension on these cars actually works.
I've don't need to "go under my car" to confirm that you're wrong, I've been under my car because I installed all of those parts. The LCA's do not slide backward on the pins. This is because my strut rods are the correct length, and the strut rods are what locate the LCA. That's how it works.
When an OEM bushing tears, the pivot pin flops around radially inside the LCA shell. That's why the car wanders, because the LCA is now moving all over the place. That is not at all what happens with a poly bushing. Properly installed, the LCA pivot is tight in the poly bushing which is tight in the outer bushing shell, so there's no radial slop like with a torn rubber bushing. If the poly bushing has been installed with proper length strut rods, it doesn't slide back either. So you get none of the problems of a failed rubber bushing, that's just not how it works.
I do my own alignments, they have always held. I check the entire travel of my suspension for binding, irregular movement, etc when I install new parts and when I set my alignment. None of the made up BS you're always crowing about has ever been a problem on my car. That's because I understand that poly LCA bushings are not the same as rubber bushings. Which is why I install greaseable pins and adjustable strut rods. Poly bushings have less give, so, the suspension geometry must be more accurate to work properly. No hiding behind big rubber factory bushings to make up for loose tolerances, the strut rods have to be the right length to keep the LCA from binding or moving backward. And unlike the rubber bushings, with poly bushings you have two surfaces sliding on each other. That requires lubrication. The OEM bushings are just getting away with using the flex in the rubber.
Your camber adjusting bolt failed because the flat wasn't cut far enough down the shaft of the bolt, it's right in the picture. The threads stripped because the washer bottomed out before it was snug against the UCA mount. The bolt didn't fail because it was weak, the bolt failed because the alignment shop over-torqued the nut. The washer held up short of the mount, the bolt wasn't holding the end of the UCA in place, and in an attempt to fix the issue they torqued the living daylights out of it. Clearly the bolt wasn't machined properly. But if anyone bothered to compare the new bolt to the old bolt they'd see the problem. And, why are you blaming it on the alignment shop? I thought you knew all about this stuff. The UCA wandering around in the mount should have been very obvious. The kind of obvious you fix before you hit the drag strip. Improper installation, improper maintenance- just like I said before.
Finally, they didn't "encase" the OEM bushings. The OEM LCA bushing is not what keeps the LCA from sliding off the pin. The strut rod does that. It limits the backward travel of the LCA. If it didn't, the rubber in the OEM bushing would tear and the LCA would fall off the pin. I've seen that with old failed rubber bushings. Pull the torsion bar and loosen the strut rod and the LCA falls right off of the back- pin still in the K, inner shell on the pin, LCA on the floor. The bushings were never intended to keep the LCA on the pin, that's not why they're there. The strut rod does that, and just in case, the torsion bar is the backstop. You think the rubber keeps the LCA in place? You can't even torque the LCA unless it's at ride height or the bushings tear. Clearly the rubber doesn't keep the LCA on the pin.
View attachment 1715414453
This is hilarious. So, you scam people into buying new bushings because, like you, they don't understand that the strut rods and torsion bars are what actually hold the LCA's in place when the car is going down the road. "Hey look, if I remove everything that holds the LCA onto the car the LCA falls off". No kidding, really?!
That's like telling a guy he needs new brake pads because they fell out of the caliper when you pulled the caliper off the rotor. "Wow this is serious, you don't want the pads falling off the car!" When you pulled the caliper you pulled everything holding the pads in place. Properly installed it can't happen. Same exact deal for the LCA. Disassemble half the suspension and the LCA comes off. Yeah, that's how that works, you took everything holding it in place off the car, so it comes off the car.
"Quality" Moog parts
Moog LCA Bushings
Moog LCA bushings
LCA bushings shot
Lca bushing help.
That's the same exact brand that has done tens of thousands of miles on my cars. When I switched my Duster over to Delrin LCA bushings the $9 energy suspension LCA bushings looked brand new still, that particular set had at least 10k on them. I think the set on my Challenger has more than double that on them. Heck the red poly energy suspension "C" bushings on my old F100 have been there more than ten years, I've had the truck over 11 years and they were there when I bought it.
Curious, were you using them with adjustable strut rods and greaseable LCA pins? Poly bushings need to be lubricated, they are not like the OEM rubber bushings. Different material, and a different design. If poly bushings are not properly lubricated they will wear out, the pins rotate in the bushing. If the bushing dries out, that friction will kill the bushing. They also have to fit tightly in the shells. That's actually the biggest drawback of the bare poly bushings, they depend on the factory tolerances of the original bushing shells. If they don't fit tightly, they won't work properly. That's why the new proforged poly bushings come with their own shells.
Regardless, the last set of Moog bushings didn't last 5 years. And that was before they changed the manufacturing on them, now it's hit and miss if the inner shells even fit the pins. The links I posted above show all the issues Moog is having now. Rubber bushings are no guarantee.[/QUOTE
I see you responded with your usual load of horse puckey, glad I missed it the first time around. Same made up "facts", same fundamental misunderstanding of how the suspension on these cars actually works.
I've don't need to "go under my car" to confirm that you're wrong, I've been under my car because I installed all of those parts. The LCA's do not slide backward on the pins. This is because my strut rods are the correct length, and the strut rods are what locate the LCA. That's how it works.
When an OEM bushing tears, the pivot pin flops around radially inside the LCA shell. That's why the car wanders, because the LCA is now moving all over the place. That is not at all what happens with a poly bushing. Properly installed, the LCA pivot is tight in the poly bushing which is tight in the outer bushing shell, so there's no radial slop like with a torn rubber bushing. If the poly bushing has been installed with proper length strut rods, it doesn't slide back either. So you get none of the problems of a failed rubber bushing, that's just not how it works.
I do my own alignments, they have always held. I check the entire travel of my suspension for binding, irregular movement, etc when I install new parts and when I set my alignment. None of the made up BS you're always crowing about has ever been a problem on my car. That's because I understand that poly LCA bushings are not the same as rubber bushings. Which is why I install greaseable pins and adjustable strut rods. Poly bushings have less give, so, the suspension geometry must be more accurate to work properly. No hiding behind big rubber factory bushings to make up for loose tolerances, the strut rods have to be the right length to keep the LCA from binding or moving backward. And unlike the rubber bushings, with poly bushings you have two surfaces sliding on each other. That requires lubrication. The OEM bushings are just getting away with using the flex in the rubber.
Your camber adjusting bolt failed because the flat wasn't cut far enough down the shaft of the bolt, it's right in the picture. The threads stripped because the washer bottomed out before it was snug against the UCA mount. The bolt didn't fail because it was weak, the bolt failed because the alignment shop over-torqued the nut. The washer held up short of the mount, the bolt wasn't holding the end of the UCA in place, and in an attempt to fix the issue they torqued the living daylights out of it. Clearly the bolt wasn't machined properly. But if anyone bothered to compare the new bolt to the old bolt they'd see the problem. And, why are you blaming it on the alignment shop? I thought you knew all about this stuff. The UCA wandering around in the mount should have been very obvious. The kind of obvious you fix before you hit the drag strip. Improper installation, improper maintenance- just like I said before.
Finally, they didn't "encase" the OEM bushings. The OEM LCA bushing is not what keeps the LCA from sliding off the pin. The strut rod does that. It limits the backward travel of the LCA. If it didn't, the rubber in the OEM bushing would tear and the LCA would fall off the pin. I've seen that with old failed rubber bushings. Pull the torsion bar and loosen the strut rod and the LCA falls right off of the back- pin still in the K, inner shell on the pin, LCA on the floor. The bushings were never intended to keep the LCA on the pin, that's not why they're there. The strut rod does that, and just in case, the torsion bar is the backstop. You think the rubber keeps the LCA in place? You can't even torque the LCA unless it's at ride height or the bushings tear. Clearly the rubber doesn't keep the LCA on the pin.
View attachment 1715414453
This is hilarious. So, you scam people into buying new bushings because, like you, they don't understand that the strut rods and torsion bars are what actually hold the LCA's in place when the car is going down the road. "Hey look, if I remove everything that holds the LCA onto the car the LCA falls off". No kidding, really?!
That's like telling a guy he needs new brake pads because they fell out of the caliper when you pulled the caliper off the rotor. "Wow this is serious, you don't want the pads falling off the car!" When you pulled the caliper you pulled everything holding the pads in place. Properly installed it can't happen. Same exact deal for the LCA. Disassemble half the suspension and the LCA comes off. Yeah, that's how that works, you took everything holding it in place off the car, so it comes off the car.
"Quality" Moog parts
Moog LCA Bushings
Moog LCA bushings
LCA bushings shot
Lca bushing help.
That's the same exact brand that has done tens of thousands of miles on my cars. When I switched my Duster over to Delrin LCA bushings the $9 energy suspension LCA bushings looked brand new still, that particular set had at least 10k on them. I think the set on my Challenger has more than double that on them. Heck the red poly energy suspension "C" bushings on my old F100 have been there more than ten years, I've had the truck over 11 years and they were there when I bought it.
Curious, were you using them with adjustable strut rods and greaseable LCA pins? Poly bushings need to be lubricated, they are not like the OEM rubber bushings. Different material, and a different design. If poly bushings are not properly lubricated they will wear out, the pins rotate in the bushing. If the bushing dries out, that friction will kill the bushing. They also have to fit tightly in the shells. That's actually the biggest drawback of the bare poly bushings, they depend on the factory tolerances of the original bushing shells. If they don't fit tightly, they won't work properly. That's why the new proforged poly bushings come with their own shells.
Regardless, the last set of Moog bushings didn't last 5 years. And that was before they changed the manufacturing on them, now it's hit and miss if the inner shells even fit the pins. The links I posted above show all the issues Moog is having now. Rubber bushings are no guarantee.
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////
So, I'll take your advice and not use Moog. Whatever the guy at NAPA recommends. No way will I use a poly LCA bushing though.The pin slid right in the bushing and the bushing slid right into the 45 year old shell. Maybe the bushing tightens up when you crank down on the nut and it compresses in the shell. I'm not taking that chance. You also said they dried out if you don't keep them lubed. I didn't get the greasable pins. So if they dry out, they have a shelf life ? Also OMM has a lotta pictures to back up what he says. We both drive on Pennsylvania roads. Winter and salt tears up our roads.
Or may be Matt was on his phone and meant to hit "agree". His response that you quoted mirrored your thread and opinion.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yep on my phone, and hit disagree by mistake. I just fixed it. The buttons are pretty close together on a small screen. I been in my shop all day working on wiring up a homemade trailer I been working on and getting ready for a DPS inspection so I can get tags on it. Sorry if you think I am a troll. I am actually about 6 ft tall I think trolls are about 2 to 3 feet tall if I can remember correctly.
Dfr360cuda
Diagnosis... Plum Crazy.
When an OEM bushing tears, the pivot pin flops around radially inside the LCA shell. That's why the car wanders, because the LCA is now moving all over the place. That is not at all what happens with a poly bushing. Properly installed, the LCA pivot is tight in the poly bushing which is tight in the outer bushing shell, so there's no radial slop like with a torn rubber bushing. If the poly bushing has been installed with proper length strut rods, it doesn't slide back either. So you get none of the problems of a failed rubber bushing, that's just not how it works.
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I understand about the OEM pin tearing away from the rubber bushing. Not a good thing.
But replace it with the poly bushing that fits sloppy into your old bushing shell that isn't bonded from day one ?
Gotta do better than that.
///////////////////////////////////////////////////
I understand about the OEM pin tearing away from the rubber bushing. Not a good thing.
But replace it with the poly bushing that fits sloppy into your old bushing shell that isn't bonded from day one ?
Gotta do better than that.
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