Nitrous on 360

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Daniel Pickar

Daniel Pickar

WYDuster
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Jun 13, 2018
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Location
Wyoming
I have a 1990 LA 360 with roller lifters. It's all stock except the performer intake and edelbrock 650 cfm carb. I was looking at installing nitrous, the NOS 125 hp non adjustable kit from Jegs. Has anyone used this kit or have any recommendations? I've never messed with nitrous and don't want to blow up my engine or wreck my car. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
The basics apply. Start with opening up your ring gap to suite the amount of NO2 for long term durability.
Retard timing as suggested. Use with a MSD controller for ease. Enjoy!
 
Lol.

It will take the shot but the old stock rod bearings will not last very long , and even less, if you dont have the tune right.

for the price of the 125 kit and the cost of rebuilding the engine you could just build an engine that makes 125 horse more to start with and not use any nitrous...but I know theres no magic in that.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Lol.

It will take the shot but the old stock rod bearings will not last very long , and even less, if you dont have the tune right.

for the price of the 125 kit and the cost of rebuilding the engine you could just build an engine that makes 125 horse more to start with and not use any nitrous...but I know theres no magic in that.
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I already rebuilt the engine so it has new bearings all the way around. As well as rings. At least nitrous is cheaper than tti shorty headers. I don't want to give up my power steering!:lol:
 
Don't forget what David Freiburger say's.
"NOS doesn't blow up engines, people do."

Hope you gapped you new rings accordingly.
 
You need to call a few good nitrous companies and talk to them, you don't need any more ring gap for a 100 shot. There are a bunch of people running basicly stock engines and using nitrous with no problems, its all about the tune.
 
I think you are wanting to put in on a stock used engine. If it's sound to start with you should be ok. On the 125 shot start with retarding the timing 6 degrees and work back up ( abouy 30 total). Stock 360's run good with about 36 - 38 total. Test your fuel pump pressure and output!!! And make sure to use good fuel when using, like 93 octane. Also follow the mfg. instruction. And last have FUN.
 
Daniel Pickar said:
I already rebuilt the engine so it has new bearings all the way around. As well as rings. At least nitrous is cheaper than tti shorty headers. I don't want to give up my power steering!:lol:
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I have a complete Nitrous system with the heater and 3 jet sizes I will be selling if your interested also got a set of shorty headers out of my 73 Scamp and the headers I'll give you for the cost of shipping. PM me if you are interested.
 
LO23M8B said:
I can never get a pm out? Quick lesson please
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Not to good myself. lol
Click on my car picture and then click on the start a conversation. I think that will work if not we can talk here other than giving out personal info.
 
As lead69 said, no need to open up ring gaps for 100>150 shot, I ran stock gaps on up to a 175 big shot on my junk. Most important is a good stable N20 fuel supply, timing wise is all dependent on how you run the tune, run it with square jets or even slightly larger petrol jet and you don't need large amounts of retard. Run it "clean(smaller petrol jet)" for more power and you need to be more careful and have enough retard. All this talk of large ring gaps, 10deg+ retards etc. is all dependent on the combo efficiency/tune/fuel and generally for hits of 250+.
 
Hot Metal said:
As lead69 said, no need to open up ring gaps for 100>150 shot, I ran stock gaps on up to a 175 big shot on my junk. Most important is a good stable N20 fuel supply, timing wise is all dependent on how you run the tune, run it with square jets or even slightly larger petrol jet and you don't need large amounts of retard. Run it "clean(smaller petrol jet)" for more power and you need to be more careful and have enough retard. All this talk of large ring gaps, 10deg+ retards etc. is all dependent on the combo efficiency/tune/fuel and generally for hits of 250+.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info, this clarify's things for me!
 
LO23M8B said:
I think you are wanting to put in on a stock used engine. If it's sound to start with you should be ok. On the 125 shot start with retarding the timing 6 degrees and work back up ( abouy 30 total). Stock 360's run good with about 36 - 38 total. Test your fuel pump pressure and output!!! And make sure to use good fuel when using, like 93 octane. Also follow the mfg. instruction. And last have FUN.
Click to expand...

Thank you, great info!
 
Fuel supply is of the upmost importance. What are you running for a fuel system? You can run out of nitrous and the engine will just go rich. If you run out of fuel that's when the trouble starts. A fuel system that is capable of keeping up with the needs of the motor and the spray keeps things in check.
 
340doc said:
Fuel supply is of the upmost importance. What are you running for a fuel system? You can run out of nitrous and the engine will just go rich. If you run out of fuel that's when the trouble starts. A fuel system that is capable of keeping up with the needs of the motor and the spray keeps things in check.
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I have the standard Carter mechanical pump but was going to get a higher output pump. What do you recommend for 100 shot of nitrous?
 
Daniel Pickar said:
I have the standard Carter mechanical pump but was going to get a higher output pump. What do you recommend for 100 shot of nitrous?
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Hey Daniel I might be able to help with that I have a Holy mechanical fuel pump that is pretty new will send it with the rest of the stuff if you want no extra charge just cleaning out the garage.
 
Daniel Pickar said:
I have the standard Carter mechanical pump but was going to get a higher output pump. What do you recommend for 100 shot of nitrous?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't trust the stock mechanical pump to keep up with both the needs of the carb and the spray at high demand. I don't know enough about the Holley mechanical to comment. I don't know what kind of demands it can meet. Myself, I would run a Holley electric with regulator and pressure gauge, or some other good brand just to feed the N2O and feed the motor with the Holley mechanical. Some might say its overkill but I know when I hit the button and stretch it out through the quarter I'm not going to run out of fuel, or have nitrous related engine damage. I always flow my plate over a bucket to set fuel pressure also. 6 psi with only the fuel solenoid connected and activated, flowing fuel through the plate. I'm assuming you have cast pistons, definitely not as forgiving as forged also. Do it right and don't be afraid to use it or don't do it at all. Nitrous systems are not just bolt on and go, you might get lucky until you don't. Just my opinion.
 
340doc said:
I wouldn't trust the stock mechanical pump to keep up with both the needs of the carb and the spray at high demand. I don't know enough about the Holley mechanical to comment. I don't know what kind of demands it can meet. Myself, I would run a Holley electric with regulator and pressure gauge, or some other good brand just to feed the N2O and feed the motor with the Holley mechanical. Some might say its overkill but I know when I hit the button and stretch it out through the quarter I'm not going to run out of fuel, or have nitrous related engine damage. I always flow my plate over a bucket to set fuel pressure also. 6 psi with only the fuel solenoid connected and activated, flowing fuel through the plate. I'm assuming you have cast pistons, definitely not as forgiving as forged also. Do it right and don't be afraid to use it or don't do it at all. Nitrous systems are not just bolt on and go, you might get lucky until you don't. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Great info, thanks for the insight!
 
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