Ive done a lot of reading about K member notching but I’m a little confused if the notching is only nessary if the engine is installed from the top with the oil pan in place. If the K member is out of the car and I atach It to the engine defore it goes in the car will a milodon street strip 7 or 8 quart pan fit without notching the K member. I ask because I want to get the K powder coated but the engine is not done to check things. Thanks.
K member notching question
- Thread starter WCMachine
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I am not sure, but I do not think that it does not matter if the engine is out and you put it in from the top or not. If the oil pan needs to have a notch then it should be cut in. You will have to mock it up with a block and pan with the motor mounts attached to the K member. If all clear then you can install the engine after from the top. I have install many engines from the top with not trouble if everything clears.
My understanding is that because of the angle required when putting the engine in from the top, the front of the oil pan is more forward than it would be if the engine was not angled and I’m not sure if that is the only reason the K member gets notched. Would it still need notching if the engine were not installed at an angle? That is the question.
I've taken many engines in and out of these cars thru the top. There is no need to notch the K frame to clear anything. Not sure who told you that or where you got it from. But even deep sump pans clear.
I agree, even with the trans mounted you can push the combo back enough to clear and then rotate the combo down. You can even do it on a painted car with care. You can use one of the adjustable engine bars to vary the angle if needed.
rod7515
Well-Known Member
I did the milodon oil pan on my 66 Dart and I had to notch the k frame. The pan would fit in but it was to close and when accelerating would have hit. Heres a pic of my k frame once notched.
I added the gussets in the corners for extra support. The gussets are all the way to the rear of the frame then built the fill in around them. If you need more pics let me know. I have plenty of clearence now.
Rod
I added the gussets in the corners for extra support. The gussets are all the way to the rear of the frame then built the fill in around them. If you need more pics let me know. I have plenty of clearence now.
Rod
prorac1
Well-Known Member
I always test fit the engine combo into the car before plating or painting anything
The milodon pan I had on my 63 years ago cleared the k member fine on install and in chassis. Good luck. Eric.
The milodon pan I had on my 63 years ago cleared the k member fine on install and in chassis. Good luck. Eric.
prorac1
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That makes sence. I had solid mounts. It was close but ok.
justinp61
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You've never installed an engine or engine/transmission with a Milodon pan in my Dart. It will not fit without a notch, period.
To the OP go ahead and notch the K member before you have it powder coated, it could save you a bunch of headache later.
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
This will depend on which part number is used with which motor mounts, etc. I forget which part number we used, but I think it was 7 quart Milodon pan we put on a Magnum 360, Schumacher interlocking insulators on Chrysler 360 LA brackets, and a spool-type trans mount with 727 trans. This combo in a 70 Duster with small block k-member made hard contact after installation, and we had make about a one inch notch in the lip of the k-member for clearance. Mock it up once and see what happens, then notch if necessary. Don't chance it if you plan to powder coat it.
Marcohotrod
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go with the 9" deep Canton pan, 7 quarts, no kickouts and no notching needed, and made in new england !
Matts440
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Or you can notch the oil pan.
Ahoey
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i have a milodon 7 qt pan looks very much like the one in pic. Fits my 74 sport a body minty. However the trany has to be connected in car and engine has to go STRAIGHT down. Bit of a pain in *** only have an 1/4 inch or less to play with at the kick out but once in fits really well just a ***** to get in there. Pan pretty much level with bottom of k member
Ahoey
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Like said before connect auto tranny in car set it on not in trans mount on floor jack smacked up against firewall to get clearance engine has to go STRAIGHT down very tight have to wiggle motor mount but once in engine mount pan fits really nice.
AJ/FormS
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I have a 1971 360 with a Milodon 7qt roadrace pan, that has the sideways kick out and hangs below the 1970 Duster K member; installed in a 1968 Barracuda.
The notch was mandatory; not only to install it, but afterwards I had to enlarge the notch slightly so it didn't rattle.
My engine had to be slightly raised for header clearance, which also decreased the pan to K clearance, so more notching was required to the sides. Then during hard braking the pan would hit the K on the front, so more notching.
By now, it sounds like my notch is huge,lol. But that is not the case, it's only on the passenger side corner that the pan is tight, and I just whittled it out bit by bit on the lowest flat flange part After final install, I have about 3/8 clearance to the front and a lil more to the side. Installing the engine from the top is still a lil tricky. This is all on the passenger side corner. The driver's side was fine.
I highly recommend a skid plate cuz sooner or later that pan will snag something, and unless you find a pro to fix the cracks, you will be an unhappy guy. I finally gave up repairing it in frame, and dropped her down for a serious cleaning, then had a actual welder guy stitch it up.
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383Scampman
Well-Known Member
I notched my k-frame . I did not cut all the way through . I cut 1/2 way fore and aft and enough width for oil pan clearance . I boxed in the cut with 11 guage steel and tig welded it in . Then powder coated it silver . I did it so that it isn't necessary to raise the engine to remove the oil pan . It's awesome and as strong as a bastard .
Ahoey
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My pan is a milodon 30941 kick outs both sides hangs approx. 1/2 below cross member by
Ahoey
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black954
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I trimmed roughly 3/4” all around the inside radius on my K member and I still have a little more to go. 1/8” of clearance isn’t safe in my book
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Without notching the k member, at least on the front pass side corner, the milodon pan will hit the k member. The trick is to cut the front pass side corner off the milodon oil pan.. about a 3" corner section...then weld a flat piece over it.
Another place hedman headers hit is on the drivers side upper middle where the sump section seams to pan..its bulged and needs a cut , hammering in a bit and then re weld it up again. See...If you modify the k member, you rid one of those 2 issues with aftermarket oil pans BUT, now you're cutting on the car ...and not many wanna cut the car. Oil pans are very replaceable...unlike 50+yr old k members .
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Ahoey
Well-Known Member
Why is it that every thing you have to install or bolt up on a small block A body seems to be a pain in the neck last two spark plugs dr side, starter, headers, header bolts, oil pan the list goes on. Wish I’d have a dollar for every skinned knuckle and every swearing fit my car would be free. Sometimes l’d like to find a Chrysler engineer and ***** slap ‘em But I guess that one of the reasons we love
Small block A body’s
Small block A body’s
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