Steering coupler mod

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Tad

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I received my steering coupler/U-joint. Steering box side is splined with a set screw. Shaft side is smooth. The end of the shaft still has the pin through it where the old coupler Plunges/engages. I was thinking of notching the new coupler to receive the pin on either side of the shaft. There is plenty of length to notch it. Thoughts?
 
Is the set screw ment to hold the shaft, or the joint cap? Can the pin be pressed out and just drill a hole?
 
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Is the set screw ment to hold the shaft, or the joint cap? Can the pin be pressed out and just drill a hole?
Set screw Is on the splined side and sets into the original notch on the steering box shaft. I was going to notch the other side to allow for the “plunge” like the original style coupler. A drilled hole would work too just no room for plunge.
 
Set screw Is on the splined side and sets into the original notch on the steering box shaft. I was going to notch the other side to allow for the “plunge” like the original style coupler. A drilled hole would work too just no room for plunge.
Ok i see what your saying now. I always have a hard time cutting on that black metal and getting the shape I want. I suppose if enough of the shaft is in past the groove a slot would work. But when I think about it more, it is a fairly critical point to operating the car safely, maybe check into other shaft options?
 
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Ok i see what your saying now. I always have a hard time cutting on that black metal and getting the shape I want. I suppose if enough of the shaft is in past the groove a slot would work. But when I think about it more, it is a fairly critical point to operating the car safely, maybe check into other shaft options?
i pressed the pin out and will drill a hole like suggested. Slipped right on!
 
Yes, I think you're on the right path now. Here is what the shaft in my Duster looks like.
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Is switching out the old style coupler with this style make any difference in steering? Looks a lot nicer though.
 
The original did have a 'plunge' fudge factor but I'm not sure if it just aided in installation tolerances or as it designed to add a little 'give' to a somewhat flexible unibody? If you were to slot it, you would probably end up with slop after a few thousand miles as the pin would be concentrating all the torsional force on 1-2 mm of that coupling receiver. Full pinning is probably the way to go, with subframe connectors. If you pressed that pin out, would it be a 3/4 DD?
 
The original did have a 'plunge' fudge factor but I'm not sure if it just aided in installation tolerances or as it designed to add a little 'give' to a somewhat flexible unibody? If you were to slot it, you would probably end up with slop after a few thousand miles as the pin would be concentrating all the torsional force on 1-2 mm of that coupling receiver. Full pinning is probably the way to go, with subframe connectors. If you pressed that pin out, would it be a 3/4 DD?
Yes, There is a very slight DD shape to the end of the shaft that goes up about 1 inch
 
interesting........Thanks. That 3/4-36 to 3/4 smooth is a rare bird on amazon for some reason.
 
Sot it appears the popular answer is to drill the coupler and press the pin out. What did you put in place of the pin once the coupler was installed?
 
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