Ohio or Molnar crankshaft?

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12swinger

12swinger

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May have some problems getting parts from certain vendors!
Due to the 25% tariffs imposed by the current administration I will have to search out my stroker crankshaft from sources I’m not familiar with.
So any help in choices of quality forged cranks is appreciated
Mainly 4.100-4.125 I’m looking at.
Though I won’t rule out a 4” probably would be fine.
 
Molnar crankshafts are quality pieces. I have no experience with Ohio crankshafts. 65'
 
Other quality places and parts.
Home run ether way I think.
 
My machinist has mentioned Molnar a couple times. He seems to like them, has a bb mopar one he wants me to look at.
I’ve discussed some years back a few things with Ohio crankshaft. Mainly I criticized them not using Chevy small block journals and wrist pins for there Cranks journals, and small block Chevy wrist pins on their rods?
He said they didn’t offer them, and would work on it.
I had to make the bushings on the Scat rods I currently am using in a engine.
 
IIRC SCAT uses chinese cores and forgings..."designed and engineered in USA" (Forged in China?) Callais or Kellog is another option if you won the lottery.
 
No lottery here lol
I would buy America if possible.
That’s the only thing positive about the tariffs, maybe more stuff will be made in the USA.
 
I have an Ohio crank in my 470 stroker. It’s been in there over 20+ years. In 2013 the motor was freshened. Crank was perfect. Their great and it balanced perfect. Kim
 
I used 4" and 4 1/4 Moldex in sbc
the smaller crank pin and stroker rods will allow a longer stroke
 
Tom Molnar makes some quality stuff even if his forgings come from China. There IS a difference in the suppliers. One of my engines guys buys a lot from Molnar... nary a problem.

I have heard good and bad about Ohio stuff.

The low cost line from Callais is also an import forging.

The tariff's should not affect the availability of any parts... that's 25% on wholesale costs not retail. Some suppliers will mark up according to their actual costs... some will bend you over and blame the tariffs.

I'm looking for aluminum sheet for my dirt car body. Most is imported. Two years ago, before the steel/aluminum tariffs, a 5x10 sheet was $67.00. Last year $72.00. Today $75.00. Does not discourage me at all.

The coronavirus hype will affect supply more than the tariffs.
 
Aside from the dastardly current administration causing a 25% increase in your crankshaft price, all in the name of not feeding our enemies, trying to balance the massive trade deficit, and protect American jobs....crankshafts are still quite affordable. Those of us who've been around a while can recall the days when the only choice for crankshafts were stock, welded-up stock, and really expensive aftermarket cranks.

I bought a Molnar crank this week (3.79" 340) and am pleased with the quality of it. It's definitely better than the 440 Source crank I used (for a friend's engine) some years ago. It's not as nice a Crower, but also less than half the price. My only question mark is why there are no knurling marks on the seal area but it may well be they assumed everyone would be using a rubber lip seal.

I bought this from Ray Barton...he told me it was the best of the lower-cost cranks. Next up would be a Winberg but that's a big jump in price.

3.79 crank.jpg
 
the knurled marks for the rope seal is another process that would add cost. As you stated, not many would still opt for the rope seal when the lip seal is available.
 
molnar been using them for years on all my builds 4.125 on my 426 and stock on my 340 . The shop i go to uses them on all their drag race cars . good quality .Well worth it . no info good or bad on OHIO
 
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I bought one from BPE. Mic’d out perfect. It was only 4” but I know he offered 4.125 and even 4.250 if I remember correctly. 2.100 rod journals.
 
I have an Ohio crankshaft in my 470 low deck stroker. It was built in 1998, refreshed in 2013. Everything was perfect then. A few thousand street miles and many quarter mile passes. About a 1/4 of the passes were with nos. 3300 lb duster. 9.03 best run with nos. 10.1 without nos. First pic is my friends car I got the motor from. Kim

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I'd use a rope seal...if it had the knurling.

Maybe I'll try one of those new-fangled 'one piece' seals.
 
Even more, they do something better than the lip seals...they don't leak.
 
No exp with Ohio but I used a 4" Molnar in my 408. Clearances were dead on and nice quality. My machinist is a Mopar guy and uses them a lot and likes them and he's pretty picky. I don't race my car on the track much but I run the crap out of it on the street and have about 15,000 hard miles on it trouble free
 
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