Correct Door Jamb Switches

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RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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Does anyone know the correct door jamb switch for the early A bodies? Specifically for a 64 Valiant 2 door seeeedan? The Standard Ignition # DS173 AINT it. They work, but the are too long and interfere with the door when it closes.
 
Sorry Rob, but no.

My 69 Fish uses the double poll variety.
 
It should self adjust when you shut the door.
The brass part will press into the chromed part.
You could manually do it on a vice if you are nervious
 
It should self adjust when you shut the door.
The brass part will press into the chromed part.
You could manually do it on a vice if you are nervious

No, these are one set length. I looked at "all that" when I realized they were causing the doors to bind.
 
These are the kind that self adjust when you close the door for the first time....

Standard® - Tru-Tech™ Door Jamb Switch

That's exactly what I have, EXCEPT for the fact they are solid where the sleeve attaches to the nut. Evidently the "T" designation makes that difference. Mine are DS173. Those you linked to are DS173T. Thanks, Jim. That's what I needed.
 
I believe from the Standard e catalog that the "T" is just a designator of their less expensive product line.

Put the non "T" one over a vice and use a block of wood to tap on the fully compressed plunger maybe it is pressed in a bit tighter then your sheet metal can stand.

But unless it is made incorectly it is self adjusting

The "T" designates it to be the:

"Standard T-Series is a competitively priced line containing some of the most popular part numbers to help you meet your market needs..."

Vs the non "T" which is the:
" Standard® is the premier professional engine management brand in the automotive aftermarket today. Standard leads the way in advanced automotive technology with more than 40,000 products for complete vehicle coverage..."
 
I believe from the Standard e catalog that the "T" is just a designator of their less expensive product line.

Put the non "T" one over a vice and use a block of wood to tap on the fully compressed plunger maybe it is pressed in a bit tighter then your sheet metal can stand.

But unless it is made incorectly it is self adjusting

The "T" designates it to be the:

"Standard T-Series is a competitively priced line containing some of the most popular part numbers to help you meet your market needs..."

Vs the non "T" which is the:
" Standard® is the premier professional engine management brand in the automotive aftermarket today. Standard leads the way in advanced automotive technology with more than 40,000 products for complete vehicle coverage..."

I don't have to. I can look at them and see the sleeve and nit are one piece. Besides, if they were not, they bind the doors up enough at close that they would have already adjusted themselves. One is even a tad bent from the door closing on it. They are simply too long.
 
Shop around, pricing is all over the place:

PN DS173T Door Jamb Switch
$5.56 @ amazon.com
$4.90 @ autoplicity.com
$10.99 @ eBay
$5.99 @ summitracing.com
$5.56 @ homedepot.com
$6.99 @ oreillyauto.com
$3.97 @ carid.com
$2.86 @ rockauto.com
 
Here's a picture for all you collectors. Solid as a rock. Totally non-adjustable. The sleeve is one piece with the body of the nut. They are both the same. Sorry for the late response.

DOOR JAMB SWITCH.jpg
 
I was kind of thinking a close-up of just the switch off the car.

When I take these off, I am going to have replacements because these are gettin chunked in the garbage.
 
Shop around, pricing is all over the place:

PN DS173T Door Jamb Switch
$5.56 @ amazon.com
$4.90 @ autoplicity.com
$10.99 @ eBay
$5.99 @ summitracing.com
$5.56 @ homedepot.com
$6.99 @ oreillyauto.com
$3.97 @ carid.com
$2.86 @ rockauto.com

Thanks for this!
 
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