geminimotors
Well-Known Member
In my recent experience, 77 Cordoba has rear-caliper spindles, 11.75” rotors, brackets, and pin-style calipers. That will fit a body- early a if you use later a uca or ball joint adapter sleeve.
Upgrading to 11.75” discs on the front?
- Thread starter 71DodgeDemon340
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71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
i will need new calipers too correct? Ive read the 80’s calipers allow the brake hose to be in a more neutral position and the 79 and earlier calipers can put the hose in a bind
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
I'm glad I got my parts years ago. I don't have to think about it, I just need to put them on. I used E-Boogers disc brake swap found on Mopar Actions website, Disc-o-tech I think it was titled.
Hope it all works out easily for you.
Hope it all works out easily for you.
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autoxcuda
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I’m not aware of the brake hose hole moving from 79 to 80.
call Dr Diff or email him with a picture of your calipers
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
They are different part numbers from '79 to '80.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
i just got done talking with cass from dr diff, great guy! He told me the 80 and newer style calipers for rear mounting them for the cleanest and most bind-free hose routing otherwise the 79 volare calipers i have would have to remain upside down.
That is correct. When comparing areas you only have to compare the square of the diameters. Everything else cancels out. Old engineer trick. Just do the math that needs to be done.
The Wilwood calipers will reduce brake force over a factory 2.75 caliper. You can get the brake force back by reducing the size of the MC but then you might cause a problem with the rears. There are no free lunches with brakes. Everything has to stay proportional and in balance. Dropping piston area on one end of the car by 24% with no compensating changes could be dangerous.
Upside down calipers is a bad plan since you won't be able to bleed them. Doctor Diff sells calipers with dual bleeders so they can be mounted in any location. That is a very simple and very clever solution.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
they are that way now, i bled them off the car and they have worked fine upside down but i would like to do thinks right if im gonna upgrade to the larger rotors.
Ive been in contact with cass from dr diff and he told me about his new calipers with dual bleeders. pretty nice setup
71DodgeDemon340
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Whats the census on the dust shields? Thought about leaving them off
mopowers
Well-Known Member
I've always left them off.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
Is the 15/16 bore absolutely necessary? I have the 1-1/32 bore now.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
Got my first batch of parts in. Usa made timken bearings, not too thrilled that the timken seals are made in taiwan but i guess better than china. Got the bendix pads as well, they are listed on summit as riveted but these are bonded which im happy about, ive never seen a brake pad with a burnishing compound on it though.
According to bendix the blue stripe is a titanium burnishing compound that eliminates the need to bed in the pads.
According to bendix the blue stripe is a titanium burnishing compound that eliminates the need to bed in the pads.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
Just put my order in with doctor diff, had to wait a month for the 11.75” brackets to be back in stock, ordered a pair of the 2.75” bore new powder coated calipers, stainless brake hoses for rear mount calipers and the 11.75” brackets
autoxcuda
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I run 1 1/32 but I have pin calipers. It’s a hard pedal and takes some force.
not sure if the slider caliper bores are larger or smaller.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
Im not sure but i think i have the smaller bore calipers now. Using the 1-1/32 master and changing from 2.6 to 2.75” calipers wont it make the pedal feel softer?
autoxcuda
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yea. I think they should help. You might find a happy medium
I'm running a complete 73 A body front suspension with 11.75 rotors and slide calipers. I would rather have the pin ones but I had the brackets sitting on my shelf.
I used the shields again cause they were on the shelf. I'm using a master for an 80 Grand Fury 1.03 bore and also have GM rear calipers. IIRC the lines were for 73 A body. Pedal is a bit spongy but stops well. Thought about trying a 15/16 master.
I used the shields again cause they were on the shelf. I'm using a master for an 80 Grand Fury 1.03 bore and also have GM rear calipers. IIRC the lines were for 73 A body. Pedal is a bit spongy but stops well. Thought about trying a 15/16 master.
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71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
from what ive read going to a smaller bore master will make them more spongey or basically there will be more travel
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
yesterday got the 11” ssbc rotors off along with the caliper brackets and brake dust shields.
Tonight i removed the races that came in the new 11.75” stop tech slotted rotors. Installed the races for the timken bearings, cleaned, painted and reinstalled the dust shields, packed the timken bearings with lucas xtra heavy duty grease. Installed the new slotted rotors. Installed new 11.75” rotor caliper brackets along with new 2.75” piston calipers that i bought from dr diff. I love how the calipers have 2 bleeders so you can mount the caliper in any position. Just lack installing the stainless braided brake hoses.
Tonight i removed the races that came in the new 11.75” stop tech slotted rotors. Installed the races for the timken bearings, cleaned, painted and reinstalled the dust shields, packed the timken bearings with lucas xtra heavy duty grease. Installed the new slotted rotors. Installed new 11.75” rotor caliper brackets along with new 2.75” piston calipers that i bought from dr diff. I love how the calipers have 2 bleeders so you can mount the caliper in any position. Just lack installing the stainless braided brake hoses.
Looks good.
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