Dartin for Divorce

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It was a grommet... now it's a torn grommet. I have a good amount of orings. Tore the thicker one as well trying to get it in. Ended up using a thinner oring that I could double up. The rod is all secured in the MC now.

Tell me you are kidding. You used O rings to secure the brake push rod ? You realize brakes are important right ?
This isn't time to be playing junior mechanic. This is now life and death for gods sake. You had the correct push rod grommet. It pushes into the MC with some lube and a socket. Its supposed to be a tight fit, as you don't want the push rod coming out of the MC. Do your family a favor, and do "this" job correctly. Please !!!!!

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Tell me you are kidding. You used O rings to secure the brake push rod ? You realize brakes are important right ?
This isn't time to be playing junior mechanic. This is now life and death for gods sake. You had the correct push rod grommet. It pushes into the MC with some lube and a socket.
Do your family a favor, and do "this" job correctly.

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I had that grommet. I tried pusing it into the MC even with some lube on it. It tore. So... I put an O-ring on it and that push rod is now secured in the MC.

I'm not a scientist but... for the pushrod to come out, a great deal of physical force would need to be applied to the pedal, in the opposite direction the pedal is supposed to go...

But... I'll keep an eye out for another pushrod grommet

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Not to hijack the thread but when does the Midnight Mayhem start? I can't find any info on the LVMS site and I'll be in Vegas the weekend of March 20th
 
Not to hijack the thread but when does the Midnight Mayhem start? I can't find any info on the LVMS site and I'll be in Vegas the weekend of March 20th

I don't see a schedule up for it yet, so I have no clue.

Ps this thread is always off the rails, which makes it unhijackable. Just a new direction, so enjoy the ride :)
 
Mechanically, the rod should not be able to come out of the M/C, grommet/o-ring, or not. I cannot physically move the brake pedal rearward enough to make the rod fall out. Metal/brackets under the dash stop the pedal before the rod is even close to falling out, plus as DD says, even with an o-ring in there, you'd have to pull like hell to pop it out in the 1st place.

Also, highly recommend speed bleeders. No wife, girlfriend, or other, needed for assistance!
 
Mechanically, the rod should not be able to come out of the M/C, grommet/o-ring, or not. I cannot physically move the brake pedal rearward enough to make the rod fall out. Metal/brackets under the dash stop the pedal before the rod is even close to falling out, plus as DD says, even with an o-ring in there, you'd have to pull like hell to pop it out in the 1st place.

Also, highly recommend speed bleeders. No wife, girlfriend, or other, needed for assistance!

I bought a couple of vacuum bleeder but have never gotten them to actually be able to bleed the brakes, hence why I ask the wife for help.
 
Mechanically, the rod should not be able to come out of the M/C, grommet/o-ring, or not. I cannot physically move the brake pedal rearward enough to make the rod fall out. Metal/brackets under the dash stop the pedal before the rod is even close to falling out, plus as DD says, even with an o-ring in there, you'd have to pull like hell to pop it out in the 1st place.

Also, highly recommend speed bleeders. No wife, girlfriend, or other, needed for assistance!

You have to pull like hell to get it out, "If" the grommet is installed. That's the way the Chrysler engineers, engineered it. But you know more then them I guess. And then to say you don't need it at all ? Stay away from my cars please, thank you.

Why not add a gum wrapper, a rubber band, and a toothpick while you are at it with your o rings ? That will make it even tighter, right ?

Such any easy part to install, why not do it right ?
Especially with something so important as brakes !!!!
Makes absolutely no sense.
Where's the bang my head button ?
 
Ok I did some scientific experiments....

The "grommet" is essentially a piece of cylindrical rubber that fits around the pushrod and is slightly bigger in diameter to help secure the pushrod in the MC...

Here the correct grommet (the one that is torn...), one of the black orings that is the same diameter, and a green oring that I wrapped 2x around the pushrod and secured the pushrod in the new MC.

Here is a rubber plug that I found that is the same size diameter but with the slight slope it may be able to fit in the 7/8 MC pushrod hole since it is slightly smaller diameter than the original MC pushrod hole.

I tried pulling my pushrod out just now while attached to the pedal and I couldn't get it out...

Lastly, here are some teeth, your upper right ones, and the one in the middle is cut for a crown...

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And there goes dental dart *** over tea kettle because he couldn't stop. The End.
 
You have to pull like hell to get it out, "If" the grommet is installed. That's the way the Chrysler engineers, engineered it. But you know more then them I guess. And then to say you don't need it at all ? Stay away from my cars please, thank you.

Why not add a gum wrapper, a rubber band, and a toothpick while you are at it with your o rings ? That will make it even tighter, right ?

Such any easy part to install, why not do it right ?
Especially with something so important as brakes !!!!
Makes absolutely no sense.
Where's the bang my head button ?
Where did I say you don't need it at all? It should be in there. But the right sized o-ring works just as good as the OEM part. Maybe better, because modern buna rubber doesn't usually rot, or dry up like the OEM thing did.
 
Ok I did some scientific experiments....

The "grommet" is essentially a piece of cylindrical rubber that fits around the pushrod and is slightly bigger in diameter to help secure the pushrod in the MC...

Here the correct grommet (the one that is torn...), one of the black orings that is the same diameter, and a green oring that I wrapped 2x around the pushrod and secured the pushrod in the new MC.

Here is a rubber plug that I found that is the same size diameter but with the slight slope it may be able to fit in the 7/8 MC pushrod hole since it is slightly smaller diameter than the original MC pushrod hole.

I tried pulling my pushrod out just now while attached to the pedal and I couldn't get it out...

Lastly, here are some teeth, your upper right ones, and the one in the middle is cut for a crown...

View attachment 1715700501

View attachment 1715700502

View attachment 1715700503

View attachment 1715700504

View attachment 1715700505

View attachment 1715700506

View attachment 1715700507
1/2" X 1/4" o-ring = GOOD. Green o-ring and piece of rubber nipple, = BAD.
 
Where did I say you don't need it at all? It should be in there. But the right sized o-ring works just as good as the OEM part. Maybe better, because modern buna rubber doesn't usually rot, or dry up like the OEM thing did.

Post 3306. " grommet/ o-ring or not "


In regards to longevity ? Come on man. The factory grommet has lasted since the 60's in thousands of cars. And still going strong. Lol

I just can't fathom why you would want to Half *** this ?
Its a .50 cent part. And No, an o ring does not work as well as the original part. Keep telling yourself that, but you are wrong.

Its a simple,safe,correct step, for your brakes.
Good luck.
 
Let me reword that: Even if the grommet/o-ring is missing, the rod cannot come all the way out of the m/c. Something else stops the pedal from going that far rearward (up?) before the rod has an opportunity to come out. But no, you would not want to drive it that way. It needs something to keep it from bouncing around. I honestly think Mopar should have put a light return spring on the pedal itself like most other cars have.
 
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Ok... I gave into the peer pressure... I went and got some other orings and grommets... I took everything apart but left the lines from the mc to the prop valve hooked up to change out the oring started tugging on the pushrod as hard as I could without putting it in the vice or having to rebleed the entire system.... as I was struggling to get it out I thought to myself, **** this, it's not coming out and if it comes out while I'm driving I have much bigger problems.

Bolted everything back up and called it a night. Maybe I'll get a fly up my *** this weekend and try again... we will see.

Which one is the real grommet and which one is the imitation.... :drama::popcorn:

Edit... another picture of the guess the grommet...

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This also might be sacrilegious to say but if anyone thinks that chrysler engineers invented some special rubber to use as a grommet for the MC pushrod... well I got a bridge to sell you in San Francisco...
 
There is a race schedule but it is not post on their website...that would be too easy....
That weekend there is a NHRA Div 7 Divisional Race...but Participants only are allowed...

which means you need a racer to sign you in as a crew person...lol
 
There is a race schedule but it is not post on their website...that would be too easy....
That weekend there is a NHRA Div 7 Divisional Race...but Participants only are allowed...

which means you need a racer to sign you in as a crew person...lol

This is the March 13th race? So that's what you race in NHRA Div 7?

Oh you wouldn't want me as a crew person... I use the wrong rubbers... :rofl:
 
yeah..you got 3 kids

March 12 and 13 are just Test n Tune....practice...knock the rust out of the car and driver...spectators/crew are ok
 
This also might be sacrilegious to say but if anyone thinks that chrysler engineers invented some special rubber to use as a grommet for the MC pushrod... well I got a bridge to sell you in San Francisco...

Tip: To get the push rod out of the master cylinder.
Leave the master cylinder bolted to the fire wall.
Remove the brake switch bracket.
Pull back on the brake pedal.
"Pop" out comes the push rod.

And yes, Chrysler engineers did design a pushrod grommet for their master cylinders. Not sure why that is so hard to understand ?
 
Tip: To get the push rod out of the master cylinder.
Leave the master cylinder bolted to the fire wall.
Remove the brake switch bracket.
Pull back on the brake pedal.
"Pop" out comes the push rod.

And yes, Chrysler engineers did design a pushrod grommet for their master cylinders. Not sure why that is so hard to understand ?

Ill rephrase what i was saying when i stated - chrysler did not design "some special rubber" grommet. Meaning they didn't come up with a whole new invention of rubber for the grommet to secure it in the MC. They simply just took a piece of rubber and cut it in the correct dimensions of the hole to the MC.

Since you're a non believer in my oring job. I just took it out, because adhd and couldn't stop thinking of it... now I'm again kicking myself in the *** for doing so.

The pushrod was a thorough pain in the *** to get out of the MC. As a matter of fact, part of the oring stayed within the MC and I had to fish it out.

As you can see by the picture the hole for the pushrod is barely bigger in diameter than the pushrod. I did some more science and the hole for the pushrod on the other MC is a bit larger maybe 1/16...

In the end, had to use some of the new black orings that are 7/16 outer diameter because there was no way in hell the 1/2 outer diameter orings were going to go in... by trial and error I know this.

Pushrod is back in and now I get to rebleed my MC and rebleed my entire brake system...yay me...

Next time how about you bring those Hulk arms by and I'll let you give it a try. You get it in, I buy you dinner and may let you drive it. You don't get it in you buy me dinner.

Now it's time for a beer... or 3.

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From the passage- the oring would not have failed if nasa had chosen not to launch on such a cold day.

We are also applying apples to oranges here...

Anyways- MC rebled and hooked back up to the firewall. Now need to hook up the pushrod to the pedal and then convince the wife to help me rebleed the brakes lol.... ill pay someone 5 bucks to ask the wife to help me so I don't have to ask her haha.
 
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