SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Thank you Sir
Valve adjustment card !!
- Thread starter SS Lancer
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SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
The correct way for all , Very large rollers or mild flat tappet is this procedure below
Setting the exhaust lash > turn the motor until the intake is fully open when it just starts to close that is when you adjust the exhaust valve clearance.
Setting the intake lash> Turn the motor when the exhaust just starts to open that is when you set the Intake valve clearance.
That decal ? Peel it off and put it with your collection of DC parts.
Setting the exhaust lash > turn the motor until the intake is fully open when it just starts to close that is when you adjust the exhaust valve clearance.
Setting the intake lash> Turn the motor when the exhaust just starts to open that is when you set the Intake valve clearance.
That decal ? Peel it off and put it with your collection of DC parts.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Thanks
The method I described above is called the EOIC method (Exhaust Opening Intake Closing) Suggested by all cam manufactures. Here is a video from Comp Cams.
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Thank u
This the way I was taught and the only method I use.
Rmoore
Well-Known Member
I've always used this method myself ! works really well ! Do one side, then the other side !
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Makes sence - not vodoo
If one cant adjust valves properly maybe they should possibly get an electric vehicle
If one cant adjust valves properly maybe they should possibly get an electric vehicle
SS Lancer
Well-Known Member
Thank you everyone for your input
There are lots of 'correct' & 'fool proof' ways to adjust lash.
The one I mentioned in post 24 comes direct from Chrysler & is also correct & fool proof.
It is also the quickest & easiest with the least amount of wrenching.
Here it is. Ensure the zero/TDC mark on the dampener is accurate. Adjust two intakes & two exhausts at each timing position.
#1 TDC: 1,7 4,8
rotate 180: 1,8 3,6
rotate #6 TDC: 3,4 5,7
rotate 180:5,6 1,2
Done!
The one I mentioned in post 24 comes direct from Chrysler & is also correct & fool proof.
It is also the quickest & easiest with the least amount of wrenching.
Here it is. Ensure the zero/TDC mark on the dampener is accurate. Adjust two intakes & two exhausts at each timing position.
#1 TDC: 1,7 4,8
rotate 180: 1,8 3,6
rotate #6 TDC: 3,4 5,7
rotate 180:5,6 1,2
Done!
famous bob
mopar misfit
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^worked very well on the hemi w/ a 785lift roller in it -----
Yup, the Mopar Performance method is a correct and fool proof way to do it. Rotate right to the lines on the balancer and check. There are other acceptable methods, so long as you are checking the valves with the lifter at the exact same spot on the lobe every time. I’d like to hear what someone thinks is wrong or not correct with the MP method.
And a point that always seems to be overlooked about the MP method and the actual chart, it was ideal for efficiency and accuracy in the pits checking/setting the valves.
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Well if your dealing with a balancer that is not marked at 90 degre increments, it would be difficult to do. Don’t you think?
Well I asked my son. Why it is not advisable to use the mopar performance method for valve adjustment?
I use to have that same sticker on my Duster when it was white years back, And I used it.
He said the reason that method is not used anymore is because the cams today have advance and retard built into them. You probably can use it with old profile cams. He said that method is a thing of the past.
I am going to ask him to show me the difference the on next motor with adjustables. I think a mechanical lift BB ford is in one of the mills.
Most all race shops I have been to use the EOIC method now. I always bring up the sticker I used and they just laugh. You can see the sticker between the wiper motor and the heater hose nipples on my car.
I use to have that same sticker on my Duster when it was white years back, And I used it.
He said the reason that method is not used anymore is because the cams today have advance and retard built into them. You probably can use it with old profile cams. He said that method is a thing of the past.
I am going to ask him to show me the difference the on next motor with adjustables. I think a mechanical lift BB ford is in one of the mills.
Most all race shops I have been to use the EOIC method now. I always bring up the sticker I used and they just laugh. You can see the sticker between the wiper motor and the heater hose nipples on my car.
Let’s think for ourselves here a minute and address the “cams of today” and “advance/retard” built into them statement before we run off enlisting answers from others:
So someone is essentially saying that Nobody ever had cams with advance (common) or retard (highly unlikely) built in or that nobody actually advanced or retarded cams until the “cams of today” came about????
that we all then assume must have some unique lobe separation angles, intake center lines, and base circles never seen before??? A 110 in at 106 or a 106 in at 100 or any number of LSA/ICL combos for a cam “not of today” vs a “cam of today” are different when setting lash?
I’d be rethinking that one.
Me, I’ll stick with the chart, and check my valves with the lifter at the exact same spot on the base circle of the lobe....old cam, new cam, what ever LSA whether with built in advance/retard by the manufacturer or done by me.
And I’d say prove it is not accurate or consistent
I’ve slung more of those off than I can count.
Install it, mark the actual balancer as needed.
I’m 66 years old, why do I want to change the way I adjust valves now?
You shouldn’t
And the way I do em I won’t. No matter how much those big race shop guys might laugh. Never liked those type of people anyway!
My son sent this to me .
Really, the toughest part in the whole process is determining when the lifter for the valve you are checking is actually on the heel of the cam lobe and not starting to ride up the opening ramp or off the closing ramp, which would give you a false lash reading. But there’s a great trick to always make sure you are checking lash at the exact right time in the engine’s cycle, and that’s called the “EOIC” method.
EOIC stands for Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing. In other words, when working with a pair of valves for one cylinder (one intake and one exhaust) you can know when the valve is on the base circle of the cam by the action of its mate. When the exhaust valve is opening, you know that the intake valve will always be closed. And likewise, when the intake valve is closing, you know that the exhaust valve will always be closed. This is true no matter the number of cylinders or the cam’s specs, including lobe duration and separation. Heck, it even works with those overly complex overhead cam engines your Blue Oval friends and import fanatics spend their time with.
Really, the toughest part in the whole process is determining when the lifter for the valve you are checking is actually on the heel of the cam lobe and not starting to ride up the opening ramp or off the closing ramp, which would give you a false lash reading. But there’s a great trick to always make sure you are checking lash at the exact right time in the engine’s cycle, and that’s called the “EOIC” method.
EOIC stands for Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing. In other words, when working with a pair of valves for one cylinder (one intake and one exhaust) you can know when the valve is on the base circle of the cam by the action of its mate. When the exhaust valve is opening, you know that the intake valve will always be closed. And likewise, when the intake valve is closing, you know that the exhaust valve will always be closed. This is true no matter the number of cylinders or the cam’s specs, including lobe duration and separation. Heck, it even works with those overly complex overhead cam engines your Blue Oval friends and import fanatics spend their time with.
Well I think “most” everyone here would agree that there is more than one correct way to check/set valves. Everyone has their preference. Pick one, do it correct and stick with it. The MP is as valid as anything else.
If one has actually installed cams themselves, used a degree wheel themselves to check “ALL” the timing events of a cam, they will know the exact degree on the wheel that the lobe lifts/closes, the various readings @.006”, .008” of lift etc, along with @ .050” and so forth but most importantly with the seat to seat readings they would easily know at what degree the intake/exhaust lobe starts and what degree it closes, and based on the timing marks on the balancer they’d know they’re on the base circle of the lobe at TDC, 90, 180, 270 degrees of crank rotation for the sets of valves to be checked. You’d have to have a pretty big cam to ever have to be concerned about getting into the lobes ramps, but the 8 position method takes care of that.
I use the 8 position (just because) with a single pattern 296 advertised duration @.020” (304 degrees ramp to ramp) mechanical, setting valves every 90 degrees rotation of the crank. I know for a fact it works, that it is accurate, as I know exactly where the timing events occur with the cam. No concerns about getting into the ramps when checking, no inconsistency as I set the balancer dead nuts every 90 degrees. No need to use another method.
The hair has been split, Pick a method and roll
If one has actually installed cams themselves, used a degree wheel themselves to check “ALL” the timing events of a cam, they will know the exact degree on the wheel that the lobe lifts/closes, the various readings @.006”, .008” of lift etc, along with @ .050” and so forth but most importantly with the seat to seat readings they would easily know at what degree the intake/exhaust lobe starts and what degree it closes, and based on the timing marks on the balancer they’d know they’re on the base circle of the lobe at TDC, 90, 180, 270 degrees of crank rotation for the sets of valves to be checked. You’d have to have a pretty big cam to ever have to be concerned about getting into the lobes ramps, but the 8 position method takes care of that.
I use the 8 position (just because) with a single pattern 296 advertised duration @.020” (304 degrees ramp to ramp) mechanical, setting valves every 90 degrees rotation of the crank. I know for a fact it works, that it is accurate, as I know exactly where the timing events occur with the cam. No concerns about getting into the ramps when checking, no inconsistency as I set the balancer dead nuts every 90 degrees. No need to use another method.
The hair has been split, Pick a method and roll
My son did not write this he copied it out of a motor trend article and sent it to me.
Here is some more of the article.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1707-how-to-set-valve-lash/
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