V8 in slant 6 k member. What am I doing wrong

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wreckbuilder

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Ok I'm mocking up a v8. Trying the truck mount trick I have read about. The block is not centered. It is over to the passenger side. Any body that has done this have any idea what I'm doing wrong?
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wreckbuilder said:
Ok I'm mocking up a v8. Trying the truck mount trick I have read about. The block is not centered. It is over to the passenger side. Any body that has done this have any idea what I'm doing wrong?View attachment 1715841762
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Use the standard a body mount for the driver side. Is that what you're doing? Make another for the pass side. Be easier to buy and cut some 2-3" square tube and weld it to the lower slant pass side k tower and then a flat pc on top. Just make sure its center to the tunnel.
 
Not bad, looks pretty close, I don't think they are supposed to be centered.

I'd go with that as you have it there. Might look different after more of the engine is assembled
 
Princess Valiant said:
Not bad, looks pretty close, I don't think they are supposed to be centered.

If go with that as you have it there. Might look different after more of the engine is assembled
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All he needs to do is look down at it and make sure it's centered to the tunnel and not going off to one side.
 
Slant six is offset to driver side. V8 is offset to the passenger side. Look at fan shrouds & it is easy to see.
 
wreckbuilder said:
Ok I'm mocking up a v8. Trying the truck mount trick I have read about. The block is not centered. It is over to the passenger side. Any body that has done this have any idea what I'm doing wrong?View attachment 1715841762
Click to expand...

Hello wreckbuilder,
There are some posts on this site that shed some light on this topic. You can do a search on here.
Here is one you can start with.
Drive train offset poll
Hope this helps.
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.
 

I don’t know any exact numbers, but I used a /6 fan shroud on my v8 by turning it upside down so the offset switches sides. Worked great.
 
wreckbuilder said:
Ok I'm mocking up a v8. Trying the truck mount trick I have read about. The block is not centered. It is over to the passenger side. Any body that has done this have any idea what I'm doing wrong?View attachment 1715841762
Click to expand...
Don't think you're doing anything wrong. AFAIK, that's the way it's supposed to be. Would have to go look, but I believe that's the way mine is. Actually, if you have no interference at pass. side exhaust manifold, more offset is good because of the steering box.
 
Mopar pass car engines are offset to the right side of the engine compartment. To clear master cylinder, column, and gear.
 
this was just posted in the for sale. maybe it will help.looks like the carb stud lines right up with radiator cap

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Professor Fate said:
Then you're all set. On to the next step!
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Yeah thanks everyone. I'm gonna drop the k member and rebuild it. Got a 8 3/4 for it. I want to roll it over on its side and clean up the bottom side and maybe spray bedliner under it. Oh yeah it's a 70 duster.
 
wreckbuilder said:
Trying the truck mount trick
Click to expand...
Notice how high that set-up sits;
>How are you gonna deal with the lack of air cleaner clearance; Don't say drop-base.
>What about clearance for the brake booster; don't say dual-diaphragm if you are gonna install a long-period cam.
>What about centering the fan in the shroud; don't say no shroud.
> What about under chassis headers; Don't say TTIs cuz they will want to occupy the same space as the T-bars do.
> if you need the big 7 blade cooling fan, it may want to cut the top rad hose as the hose will now have to slant down to the spigot on the rad; IDK.

Bottom line is; IMO, just get the right K, and the right brackets, and the right biscuits.
Even if it's all 1973-up spool-mount stuff.(which will require the 73-up swaybar).
 
Last edited:
408 swinger said:
Mopar pass car engines are offset to the right side of the engine compartment. To clear master cylinder, column, and gear.
Click to expand...

Australian cars beg to differ.
It is NOT offset to clear those items. It is offset in order to line it up with the pinion in the differential.

el5dart said:
this was just posted in the for sale. maybe it will help.looks like the carb stud lines right up with radiator cap

View attachment 1715841824
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Both the carburetor (via intake design) and radiator (via bracketry) can scoot either way a fair amount.

To the OP, V8 K-Frames are NOT that expensive, nor that hard to find. If you're going to be tipping this car up and all that, quit dicking with this garbage "trick" you found on the internet somewhere, and just buy the right factory parts. You're not really saving anything here. If the motor is out, the K-frame is what? 6 fasteners and some T-Bars to remove?

Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. Especially 5 years from now when you're looking for replacement parts.
 
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