Rally dash redo
- Thread starter 4spdragtop
- Start date
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Thanks. Little details that I didn't post included making it line up. There's some play/adjustibility in the hinges. It took several adjuments in positioning the cover on the hinges to get it to line up and have an even gap.
As Redfish said, looks great Matt. I'm falling way behind here, but some wiring progress. I bought another 67 cuda harness to be able to "mix n match"/replace wires within the same year. I also bought another Iwiss crimper with fingers crossed that it crimps better than the 1st one. So far so good 4 crimps or so and works like a charm.
Pics of orange wires show differences between years. In 67 2 orange ran to the radio connector, as well as the 2 67 harness' that I had were console cars, so an extra orange wire there also(see pics). Also originating orange wire in fusebox in 68(I believe) had a piggy back connector vs a single fuse box connector in 67(see pics).
Last few pics are of 67 wiring I removed. Good shape, just too stiff.
Once 67 is done I may as well power thru and make one up for the 69 vert.
Pics of orange wires show differences between years. In 67 2 orange ran to the radio connector, as well as the 2 67 harness' that I had were console cars, so an extra orange wire there also(see pics). Also originating orange wire in fusebox in 68(I believe) had a piggy back connector vs a single fuse box connector in 67(see pics).
Last few pics are of 67 wiring I removed. Good shape, just too stiff.
Once 67 is done I may as well power thru and make one up for the 69 vert.
Still picking away at it. If wires need replacing and the wire ends are standard terminal ends, I've replaced with new ends. Or in case of wires with flag style (fuse block)ends, or t/s switch ends I chk spare harness to see if they are in better shape. As I mentioned a bit of mix n match.
Waiting on 16 ga yellow wire I ordered to show up.
Piper is either trying to help with "spaghetti incident" or likes the taste of elec tape lol.
Waiting on 16 ga yellow wire I ordered to show up.
Piper is either trying to help with "spaghetti incident" or likes the taste of elec tape lol.
Still futzing with it. Undecided/unsure what to do with this circuit. This is one of the splices. Sorry for amount of pics, just trying to give a clear picture of what it is.
All wires in good shape EXCEPT, some are very stiff. Especially the black 12 gauge that goes to ign switch. Not stiff in the middle only at ends. Also black 14 gauge that goes to fuseblock(again the ends). Welded splice feels solid.
When I can/need to I have upsized 1 wire size to "better" the harness. This factory splice has 5 wires and range from 12ga-18ga. The 2 black are the "worse" of the bunch. Shouldn I replace with original size, or should I step up a size for each of these 2? If I step up that means 10ga running to ign switch and 12 ga running to back of fuse block. Tight fit??
Pics of all 5 wires and labels.
Thanks
Steve
All wires in good shape EXCEPT, some are very stiff. Especially the black 12 gauge that goes to ign switch. Not stiff in the middle only at ends. Also black 14 gauge that goes to fuseblock(again the ends). Welded splice feels solid.
When I can/need to I have upsized 1 wire size to "better" the harness. This factory splice has 5 wires and range from 12ga-18ga. The 2 black are the "worse" of the bunch. Shouldn I replace with original size, or should I step up a size for each of these 2? If I step up that means 10ga running to ign switch and 12 ga running to back of fuse block. Tight fit??
Pics of all 5 wires and labels.
Thanks
Steve
All ends and wires are good, I havent even cleaned them yet, BUT the 2 black I mentioned are Barry stiff
lol. 1 if the other black wires leads to round plug, so hard to find that terminal end. Not sure a 10 ga will fit in ign switch connector...
lol. 1 if the other black wires leads to round plug, so hard to find that terminal end. Not sure a 10 ga will fit in ign switch connector...Old stiff wire casing isn't a problem unless its moved enough to crack it. Where is that most often seen? Field wires on alternators. I don't know why you want to increase the wire size unless you plan increased loads. Adding relays is the smart way to move loads off of OEM wiring and switches. Bring another feed wire with fusible link from starter relay into the cabin. Black wire to fuse box will signal a relay. New feed will power the hot in run portion of the fuse box. OEM loads of those fused circuits no longer on the OEM wiring and switch. If you want to feed all of that weld splice you will need 2 or 3 of 30 amp relays added under the dash. You could do the same with the blue with white tracer out in the engine bay. All this is just suggestions of alternative method, how modern vehicles are wired. Only relay I've added under the dash of my 67 is for the amplifier in the trunk. Its feed comes from where I joined the amp gauge wires during mad bypass and amp gauge to volt gauge conversion.
Getting closer. Got to the point of "Mad Bypass ", which I did on orig harness in cuda also a couple years ago. Removed best splice from another 67 harness and worked with it. Added approx 12" of black 10 gauge wire. Crimped, soldered and heat shrinked. Then added a couple feet of red 10 ga to the new 10 ga black. This bypasses the factory ammeter. Heres a couple pics of Mad Bypass. And pics of my work. Last pic of red wire goes to ign. I will replace, crimp solder heat shrink new red 10ga wire there also.
Maybe I will add relays later Ben, I am trying to accomplish a couple things and didnt want to take on the learning curve of relays right now.
1. Harness upgrade, (some kind of power problem has sidelined enjoying the car for couple years now)
2. Install fresh powder coated dash frame.
3. Remove 67 mylar lockstrip and ws setup and install new gasket clips and ss trim. Possibly install new ws.
All these done not necessarily in that order, but "hopefully" this year.
Thanks
Steve
1. Harness upgrade, (some kind of power problem has sidelined enjoying the car for couple years now)
2. Install fresh powder coated dash frame.
3. Remove 67 mylar lockstrip and ws setup and install new gasket clips and ss trim. Possibly install new ws.
All these done not necessarily in that order, but "hopefully" this year.
Thanks
Steve
Some more supplies showed up. 4 different HIP colors of wire. 25' rolls, nonadhesive wrap and 5/16" shrink tubing. May as well call that $100
Not sure whether to splice in(solder/shrinktube) the new lengths of wire?? Some of these circuits have either a unique style of connector/terminal or they have several connections at the factory welded splice.
Damn near there lol.
Not sure whether to splice in(solder/shrinktube) the new lengths of wire?? Some of these circuits have either a unique style of connector/terminal or they have several connections at the factory welded splice.
Damn near there lol.
Well, back at THIS again. I am making progress although it is very frustrating. I am trying to make this as seamless as possible but Ma Mopar(and my LOVE for electrical) is making this difficult. I knew about the sub harness assemblies for different options, but this seems chaotic lol. Because I didnt research or plan better some of these sub harness assemblies are direct wired to connectors in the fuseblock. I was hoping I was "done" there and was mocking harness up in dash frame when I discovered all the "extras" I was missing lol. Our 67 came with factory tach, ac, rear defrost and map light. 3 of those are all off one fuse in the fuseblock! It took some digging thru 67 barracuda supplement electrical schematics, 68 barracuda schematics to decipher the damned rear defrost switch wiring. 67 supplement showed both tach wire(dk blue) and rear defrost switch wire (no color given) going to same spot on fuseblock. Checked another page in supplement schematics....only shows 2 wires(white and black) from switch.... bullshit. There are 3 wires, wht, blk, and green.
Had to go to a 68 schematic to get proper layout for switch....it shows 3 wires to switch.
Man what a shitshow, my respect to all you electrical guys.
Ordered some Packard 56 terminals for the heater resistor and wiper switch wires, also looks like defrost switch connector takes Packards.
Oh found out NOS resistor #2521409 I bought is wrong.. I need #2837296. Difference between ac vs non ac I guess.
1st 2 pics of 67, 3/4 of 68
Had to go to a 68 schematic to get proper layout for switch....it shows 3 wires to switch.
Man what a shitshow, my respect to all you electrical guys.
Ordered some Packard 56 terminals for the heater resistor and wiper switch wires, also looks like defrost switch connector takes Packards.
Oh found out NOS resistor #2521409 I bought is wrong.. I need #2837296. Difference between ac vs non ac I guess.
1st 2 pics of 67, 3/4 of 68
Yep, 67 is 2 speed. The switch contacts also indicate Packard style connectors. Neat that it has it, but MAN, these extra options are mind-numbing lol. Also on the "list" is one of your Demon VR, set of Autometer triple gauges and a hidden stereo. This "seamless" dash swap ain't gonna be so seamless lol.
Been a while, its almost there. I had most of main harness done, but lots more needed to get redone. The ac harness, console harness, rear defrost. I redid entire rear harness as well. So got original frame back from powdercoater, way nicer, but a single pit/zit!
I clipped the fuel gauge and installed an external VR that I bought from Ben @RedFish years back. Gas gauge worked correctly but I'm hoping that this will be "one and done". Replaced and polished a couple lenses I got from @Capt46 , and "chrome painted" the center caps. They were painted silver/grey. The chrome turned out decent enough. Powdercoater was having issues with glovebox door, so I had to go find one....10 hour return trip and I came back with a complete 67 dash frame....more spares lol, but a real nice gb, so dropped that off to pc'er.
Speaker bracket and a pair of JBL's mounted. Had to make splitternwires to hook to factory am/fm. Picked up a replacement vacuum switch from @T-Man700 as the plastic nipple on mine broke off. Wire orientation on the back is slightly different, so not sure on that yet. But I need the vacuum switch to operate properly for defrost. I had intended to use a different ashtray mount that had a factory light, but it wouldnt fit with factory ac push buttons. I guess 67 didn't come with lighted ashtray??
I had the MAD bypass on original harness, so I planned to do same thing here. I had crimped and solder new red/blk wires for the bypass, they're coiled up for now(gotta refresh my memory)
I made a daisy chain of extra grounds as well.
Getting close, lots more to do elsewhere(ws stainless, clips etc).
I went to test with 6v lantern battery and remembered the FB has no fuses lol.
Tomorrow lol
I clipped the fuel gauge and installed an external VR that I bought from Ben @RedFish years back. Gas gauge worked correctly but I'm hoping that this will be "one and done". Replaced and polished a couple lenses I got from @Capt46 , and "chrome painted" the center caps. They were painted silver/grey. The chrome turned out decent enough. Powdercoater was having issues with glovebox door, so I had to go find one....10 hour return trip and I came back with a complete 67 dash frame....more spares lol, but a real nice gb, so dropped that off to pc'er.
Speaker bracket and a pair of JBL's mounted. Had to make splitternwires to hook to factory am/fm. Picked up a replacement vacuum switch from @T-Man700 as the plastic nipple on mine broke off. Wire orientation on the back is slightly different, so not sure on that yet. But I need the vacuum switch to operate properly for defrost. I had intended to use a different ashtray mount that had a factory light, but it wouldnt fit with factory ac push buttons. I guess 67 didn't come with lighted ashtray??
I had the MAD bypass on original harness, so I planned to do same thing here. I had crimped and solder new red/blk wires for the bypass, they're coiled up for now(gotta refresh my memory)
I made a daisy chain of extra grounds as well.
Getting close, lots more to do elsewhere(ws stainless, clips etc).
I went to test with 6v lantern battery and remembered the FB has no fuses lol.
Tomorrow lol
Looking good 4speed
Dash and steering column will be my next components after I get the engine completed.
Dash and steering column will be my next components after I get the engine completed.
Well 8 pages and over 2 years....thanks for everyone's help/advice!
No smoke is a good thing!
I was wondering if you were getting enough exhaust fumes.
It looks good and sounds great!
One thing about the LEDs and the flasher. Old style flashers and all LEDs in a circuit don't play well together. They can flash really fast like yours did. If you replace one bulb in the circuit with an incandescent bulb and it flashes correctly, there is enough resistance in the circuit. There are special, grounded flashers for turn signal and four way available. They work great. I'll see if I can find the PNs.
Thanks for the kind words. The flashers all worked normally before with leds but who knows. I was out at post office and stopped at parts store and bought a couple flashers. I didnt do any research if they're compatible or not. I'll get pics after grub.
I was wondering if you were getting enough exhaust fumes.
It looks good and sounds great!
One thing about the LEDs and the flasher. Old style flashers and all LEDs in a circuit don't play well together. They can flash really fast like yours did. If you replace one bulb in the circuit with an incandescent bulb and it flashes correctly, there is enough resistance in the circuit. There are special, grounded flashers for turn signal and four way available. They work great. I'll see if I can find the PNs.
Thanks! I got a Grote 44810 "Made in USA" and a Eaton 552. I just remembered the flashers I installed were ones I had kicking around the ones that were in the cuda are still on the old harness. I'll try them. Thanks for link!
and a Eaton 552. I just remembered the flashers I installed were ones I had kicking around the ones that were in the cuda are still on the old harness. I'll try them. Thanks for link! -
