At What Point is a Solid Cam Better Than a Hydraulic Cam??

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harrisonm

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I obviously know the difference between a solid and a hydraulic cam. I was just wondering at what point for a non-race car does it make sense to switch to a solid cam? Or does it for mostly the street and maybe a little strip? I am talking non-rollers here, and small block. I run a Comp XE268 with Comp hydraulic flat tappets, and I am very happy with it.
 
Right away. The difference is across the board.
 
I obviously know the difference between a solid and a hydraulic cam. I was just wondering at what point for a non-race car does it make sense to switch to a solid cam? Or does it for mostly the street and maybe a little strip? I am talking non-rollers here, and small block. I run a Comp XE268 with Comp hydraulic flat tappets, and I am very happy with it.
".........and I am very happy with it."

If it ain't broke....don't fix it.
 
A solid starts pulling a thousand rpms lower and pulls a thousand rpms higher! I'd agree it's better as soon as you order it!
 
Hydraulic cam lifters rob power due to the sponge effect. When ever I hear the purr of the solids in a mechanical lifter engine. I know a motor head owns it. Very noticable when listening to them under the hood. No waiting for the lifters to pump up on start up for it to idle.

686 comp solid roller


557 mopar solid flat tappet
 
As soon as you post a question about it. Ha, had to jump on the wagon.
 
The moment in time the engineers thought it would be a great idea to use oil pressure instead of the mechanical advantage of solid lifter…
 
A hydraulic cam is a compromise between performance and the quite that the OEM sells. I’ve only installed two hydraulic cams in my own vehicles in the last forty years. One in my shop truck and one in the original 289 in my Fairlane.
 
I went from a voodoo 234 242 at .050. 513 533 lift to a hughes solid 237 242 at .050 537 542 lift and picked up 2 tenths in the 1/4. Cam is fairly quiet lash is .010 intake and .012 exhaust. I only run solids 340 street engine.
 
From birth. The reasons? Hydr lifter quality is Russian roulette. The maintenance on a solid is overstated. After it settles in, check it once/twice a year. Which is like a physical for your motor. The lash starts opening up? Time to investigate! Collapsing or a lifter pumping up can seem like many different things. Solid cam and the lash is right, move on down the line to another possible culprit. Downside? You need to buy adjustable rockers.
 
I obviously know the difference between a solid and a hydraulic cam. I was just wondering at what point for a non-race car does it make sense to switch to a solid cam? Or does it for mostly the street and maybe a little strip? I am talking non-rollers here, and small block. I run a Comp XE268 with Comp hydraulic flat tappets, and I am very happy with it.
Great question IMO. In short, I’ll say when you want more top end power but still have the same/similar/superior low end torque and/or operate in the same low rpm are when just driving around. This would be accurate if the cam sizes between the Hyd and solid lifter cams are the same.

This is how I see it. This is also written for new guys.

A Hydraulic lifter was designed to be quite in a running engine. This was done for the public. Making a performance cam in this fashion is …. OK. The general public still has a quite engine with increased performance and rpm. If you did your exhaust right, the car inside is still quite and people chat away.

The industry kept increasing the size of the camshaft. IE; duration and lift, to fit the growing performance market and keeping the engine quite.

What you find is a limitation to the Hyd. lifter. It can rpm very well! No doubt. But the solid lifter offers a broader and longer rpm range. This is at the expense of a little noise at the rocker meeting the valve tip.
(OH no! LMAO!)
The wider the lash the louder it gets.

When do I swap over from a Hyd. cam to a solid cam?

I’d answer that with, “Are you looking for more rpm on the top end?” The solid lifter doesn’t collapse at higher rpm’s. The power graph between to otherwise identical cam except there lifter design will show that the solid lifter holds onto the HP curve longer and higher than a Hyd. cam will.

Your XE268 was given a rpm band by comp cams of 1600-5800 at a 224-230@050 duration w/.477/.480 lift.
I can’t find a mechanical cam equivalent very quickly. So I’ll step up 1 step higher.
Notice the advertised duration vs he duration @050 on the cams below. Compare them and the lifts that go with each cam from Hyd. to mechanical to solid roller.

(sorry if it is blurry, IDK why that screen shot did that, but the cams are all comp and the left is a XE274, the other two are listed as 268 advertised.)
664C7C1A-A9CE-499C-90E6-1BF00D9307E5.png


Noticed how the duration @ 050 is greater than the Hyd cam and the lifts grow. This adds to top end power. As long as your cylinder heads and intake can feed the lift of the cam, your going to make more HP.
 
From birth. The reasons? Hydr lifter quality is Russian roulette. The maintenance on a solid is overstated. After it settles in, check it once/twice a year. Which is like a physical for your motor. The lash starts opening up? Time to investigate! Collapsing or a lifter pumping up can seem like many different things. Solid cam and the lash is right, move on down the line to another possible culprit. Downside? You need to buy adjustable rockers.
I agree the maintenance really isn't that bad.
I used my solid cammed valiant as a daily driver for about 6/7 years, relashed it every second or third oil change. 45mins - 1 hour to change oil/filter and set the lash, you can feel when it needs doing if your diving the car on a regular basis.
The off the shelf solid cams usually start fairly big but a lot of those grinders will have smaller profiles available if you ask. If you have adjustable rockers then go for it.
 
Only good reason to go hydraulic is if you're too old to pull your valve covers and adjust lash.
Or put more nicely: you value a longer maintenance interval over performance.

Even then, the difference is often over-stated. Solids can and do run plenty long between adjustments, and a few thou rarely kills parts.
 
Geez I haven't has a hydraulic cam since the late 90s and maintenance has never been an issue. Easy. Did that same cam swap on the kids Duster 268H to 262S the smallest solid Comp sells. Some Mancini rockers and Smith Brothers pushrods made some more mph and better ets in the same car.
 
I'd adjust the lash every 100,000 in stock 273's and slant sixes after the initial 500 mile adjustment. 300,000 miles and still running fine.
 
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