Any Interest in Road Racing Mopar?

Should we post about a crap box four door corner carver?

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Subject: Brake Mods
Before I start with the rear brakes, note that we have an 8.8 Ford Explorer rear axle. Perches were cutoff and new perches welded in OEM Mopar position.
  • 1997 8.8 rear axle. 3.73 limited slip.
  • Original style calipers
  • 10” solid rotors
  • “Yellow” EBC brake pads.
  • Shields removed.
 
I will nevr make it to the track like you guys, BUT I love seeing your work and results. Very interesting!! Give 'er Heck!!
 
Subject: Brake Mods

Shifting from drums to disc, we had to upgrade our master cylinder, proportioning valve and brake lines. Speedway order gave us:
  • Brake lines were locally sourced based on placement and fittings.
  • Part # 91031321

GM/Corvette Cast Iron Master Cylinder, 1 Inch Bore
  • Part # 83526011179

    Wilwood 260-11179 Adjustable Proportioning Block
 
I would love to road race and a body if I ever get my b-body finished. Road race my wife's Sebring convertible once, had a ball. Forgot to mention it to her. Would like to know more about rear sway bars with super stock springs.
 
artr8 said:
Subject: Brake Mods

  • For the front brakes, we ditched the original 10” drums on all four corners.
  • Changed spindles to 73 up Duster.
  • Going with 10-3/4 rotors.
  • Running 73 up slider calipers.
  • Running “yellow” EBC brake pads.
  • Removed original shields.
  • Shields replaced with modified brake ducts from Mazda.
Click to expand...

Yes if you are going to stay with the chrysler calipers the ~'77 cordoba 11-3/4" rotors with ebc yellows are good.
Upsize the wheel tire combo to ford wheels... mustang 245 45 17 or bigger.

Use 3" lug studs at all 4 wheels and play with spacers to get the proper wheel backspacing to work for the car / brake combination.
 
From my experience and also talking with other mopar road racers, most choose not to use a rear sway bar anyway.

If you have the front setup properly with good rate and a good sway bar with skookum mounts and geometry you may not need a rear bar at all.
 
dave ellis said:
I would like to hear more about this rear sway bar with Superstar springs thing.
Click to expand...

can’t make a blanket statement like that without knowing the rest of the combo (context it was said in). And in the end… how the car actually behaves on the track.

Also combos will change per track layout, driver skill level, and even driver preference

but SS are stiffer than 383 leafs. Ehrenberg de-arched some once for the green brick. He started with 2 of the same side they had lesser arch to start with.
 
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Brake mods: the don’ts

  • our brake mods were not without headaches. We originally used our 11 year old 7/8 brake master with a generic proportion valve. Started going away after one race.
  • Had to drill out the firewall to go with the two hole mount from a four hole. This included making a reinforcement plate, 3/8” to go over the original four studs and welded in flat head cap screws on the reverse side of the mount. Made up a custom rod to get correct length.
  • Mounted the proportion valve to the drivers side next to master so easily adjustable with hood open.
  • Road tested the car and adjusted until rears just locked up under hard stop.
Chris Crash was the hero. He happened to have the master and proportion valve in his garage.
 
artr8 said:
Brake mods: the don’ts

  • our brake mods were not without headaches. We originally used our 11 year old 7/8 brake master with a generic proportion valve. Started going away after one race.
  • Had to drill out the firewall to go with the two hole mount from a four hole. This included making a reinforcement plate, 3/8” to go over the original four studs and welded in flat head cap screws on the reverse side of the mount. Made up a custom rod to get correct length.
  • Mounted the proportion valve to the drivers side next to master so easily adjustable with hood open.
  • Road tested the car and adjusted until rears just locked up under hard stop.
Chris Crash was the hero. He happened to have the master and proportion valve in his garage.
Click to expand...
Don’t you want the front tires to lock up before the rears. Having the rear of the car slowing more than the front will make the car want to spin.
 
Don’t you want the front tires to lock up before the rears. Having the rear of the car slowing more than the front will make the car want to spin.[/QUOTE]
Normally yes, for a street car. This thread is how we set up our car for road racing. Although most of the hardware and set-up can work for street cars, there will be some variations.
 
Stiffening the car:
  • For any A or B body, I highly recommend adding subframe connectors.
  • Prepped the car by removing all interior, all items from trunk, drivetrain in place.
  • Supported the car at the tires and leveled to zero bubble.
  • Prefit the connectors to 1/16 or less gaps and marked the areas for welding.
  • Using flap wheel, thoroughly cleaned the weld area to bare metal then wiped down with brake clean.
  • Using another set of hands to hold in position, tacked in place.
  • Using 1” at a pass welds, welded 360 degrees.
  • Our connectors are 1/8” wall 2”square tubing bent 22 degrees to keep clear of obstructions with no floor pan intrusion.
Chris N. was the hero. Cap’n did the fitting but Chris burned it in laying under the car.
 
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artr8 said:
Stiffening the car
  • Using flap wheel, thoroughly cleaned the weld area to bare metal then wiped down with brake clean.
Click to expand...
I'm digging what you have going on here. Please use caution when cleaning weldment areas and use only approved cleaners according to the manufacturers recommendations.
Carry on.
 
Rear Springs:

Worked with Landrum Spring.
  • 20-231 SPA, 5” arch, 200 pound multi leaf. Medium weight asphalt spring.
  • Front eye is Landrum installed rubber, rear is PST polyurethane.
  • Car is 3100 pounds with a 52-48% split front to rear.
 
Would love to see any A-body kicking ***!

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Torsion Bars:
This choice in torsion bar is for track only. We went with a 1.200 bar on advice from Sway-a-Way.

99ADDE46-3B74-4444-A2ED-63651A50247B.png


9F700DFD-7423-43CC-BB37-95561EB1364C.png
 
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Motor is an E58 spec build. Did not have the correct intake so opted to port match a Edelbrock Performer. Carb is a late 70’s Thermoquad borrowed from a 400.
image.jpg
 
CFE08890-7B3E-4322-8DEF-78894E693FD7.jpeg
Using a Lares 16:1 aluminum steering box. Weighs 14 pounds. Power steering it replaces was 46 as I recall.
 
@artr8 Are you guys planning on being at NCM Bowling Green, Ky in Sep? As far as I know, Off Kilter Racing will be there with "Toad Racer" 62 Valiant/slant six.
 
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Thanks for the updates, Love what you’re doing & seeing a “lowly” A Body kicking ***!
 
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