1974 Plymouth Cuda fell into my lap….KINDA

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Duster45

Duster45

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Assonet, MA
This week I have a chance to buy a 1974 Plymouth cuda. The car is NOT matching numbers NOR original color. It’s titled with about 50,000 miles. It’s in great shape inside & out. It’s a 440 6pack 4spd manual. The guy seems like a great guy & nothing to hide. What’s your opinion on the car? What should I really be paying? I’m very excited but want to make sure I’m not overpaying or even underpaying! Here are some photos of the car so you guys get a general idea. Thanks in advance

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Being a previous owner of a '73 Barracuda 340, 727, 3.23 Sure-grip.

I say: Spend the Money!

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In 1976 ^^^
 
Can you post the fender tag info. I know, the car is not original but the original documents make a difference on an ebody, even a 74.
Looks like it's in pretty decent shape. Did you get any pictures of the bottom of the car
What year is the 440? original six pack motor? Original six pack carbs? dates?

Looks like the seats need to be reupholstered or tightened up by an upholstery shop. Looks pretty good otherwise.

More pics!!
 
Looks like the grill end bottom tab is broken off all the way on the drivers side and partially on the passengers side.
These grills are not remanufactured, at least not like the 70 or 71 so they are difficult to find. They can now bring more than an original 0-1 since they are no repoped.

There is someone repoping these, but few and far between. Maybe someone here knows where?
 
Cuda Hunter said:
Can you post the fender tag info. I know, the car is not original but the original documents make a difference on an ebody, even a 74.
Looks like it's in pretty decent shape. Did you get any pictures of the bottom of the car
What year is the 440? original six pack motor? Original six pack carbs? dates?

Looks like the seats need to be reupholstered or tightened up by an upholstery shop. Looks pretty good otherwise.

More pics!!
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i inquired the same thing, from what I’m told it was a original 3 something, auto. Orginal color was copper, white top with white interior.
 
Duster45 said:
i inquired the same thing, from what I’m told it was a original 3 something, auto. Orginal color was copper, white top with white interior.
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It really doesn't matter. What it is now is worth more than what it was.
 
Just a heads up during today's rising fuel prices, that 440 Six Pack is going to drink the fuel.

Nearing $5.00 a gallon for Premium. Could be one of the underlying reasons he is selling it at this point in time. Could be a bargaining chip for you to help negotiate a better price.

Good Luck on your find, not many of those around anymore that people can actually afford to buy.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
My Bro is selling, or may have sold last weekend, a 71 Challenger, 440, 4spd pistol grip, convertible that is in Killer Condition for 58k. If they are askin' big cash, I'd just check it out really good, take a friend. If they don't have a lift, crawl around under it. I'd wanna get it up to speed ( at least 45-50) to check the steering/ alignment, and then, Always, and Of Course, the Hard Launch Burnout! If it passes, Buy it, and Run away!
 
AN A/C car missing it's A/C stuff? Deduct a bit for that. Ignition box bracket is empty. Check the frame rails and all the usual spots.
 
Ironracer said:
My Bro is selling, or may have sold last weekend, a 71 Challenger, 440, 4spd pistol grip, convertible that is in Killer Condition for 58k. If they are askin' big cash, I'd just check it out really good, take a friend. If they don't have a lift, crawl around under it. I'd wanna get it up to speed ( at least 45-50) to check the steering/ alignment, and then, Always, and Of Course, the Hard Launch Burnout! If it passes, Buy it, and Run away!
Click to expand...

Like I said, it kinda just fell into my lap. It’s not for sale or listed anywhere. It was one of those things “hey my cousin is looking to sell his cuda, give him a call” type of thing. We’re in mid 30’s as far as price and I’m thinking it’s very fair. I’m interested to hear what other people think for value. It would be my biggest purchase yet, so second opinions are welcome!
 
Duster45 said:
Like I said, it kinda just fell into my lap. It’s not for sale or listed anywhere. It was one of those things “hey my cousin is looking to sell his cuda, give him a call” type of thing. We’re in mid 30’s
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Do It, Do it Now! Just check the frame rails, ect. As Sweet as She looks, I doubt it has issues. CONGRATS MAN!!!!!!!
 
You are first in line, that doesn't happen very often.

That is the way it was when I bought the original '69 Satellite from the original owners. They had it appraised, after looking it over very well I offered them 1000 less than the appraisal. That worked.

I knew the whole time if I did not act on it on Sunday, it would be gone on Monday as others were making appointments to come look at it the next week.

First in Line, a good position to be in.
 
Looks like a standup car .
A 440-6 will actually get mid teens if set up correctly and not raced everywhere you drive .
 
I was going to say 20 to 50,000 depending on the amount of rust.

I see now you're in the mid 30s I would say that is a reasonable price.

If you are willing to pay more then go the appraisal route as noted earlier.

Are you planning on keeping it or flipping it?

If you're going to be keeping it, I'm ok with paying less to the seller. If your planning on flipping it, pay the seller a higher price.

I would be willing to give my dart away to the right person once I'm too old to enjoy it if I knew they were going to keep it, pass it down to their kids enjoy it and maintain it.
 
toolmanmike said:
It really doesn't matter. What it is now is worth more than what it was.
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Does matter.
A 360 holds far more value than the 318. 74 is the only year for the 360. Making it more valuable to those who look at numbers and consider the original car.
A copper with white guts and perhaps some white stripes would be a very appealing color and the resale would be greatly increased for the future. Depending upon what the actual fender tag says. If it's a 318, then the color would be the draw and not really the drivetrain combo.

I, for instance, will not purchase a 74 unless it is a real K code car. Or, of course it falls in my lap for cheap or parts.

So, if it's a G code car, you just lost me for resale. Limiting the value of the car ultimately.

Fender tag does matter. Build sheet matters as well. Helps value. Ask if there are any other documents with the car. Window sticker, purchase records, anything that is left of the car.
 
Cuda Hunter said:
Does matter.
A 360 holds far more value than the 318. 74 is the only year for the 360. Making it more valuable to those who look at numbers and consider the original car.
A copper with white guts and perhaps some white stripes would be a very appealing color and the resale would be greatly increased for the future. Depending upon what the actual fender tag says. If it's a 318, then the color would be the draw and not really the drivetrain combo.

I, for instance, will not purchase a 74 unless it is a real K code car. Or, of course it falls in my lap for cheap or parts.

So, if it's a G code car, you just lost me for resale. Limiting the value of the car ultimately.

Fender tag does matter. Build sheet matters as well. Helps value. Ask if there are any other documents with the car. Window sticker, purchase records, anything that is left of the car.
Click to expand...
All those things you mention matter for a original car. Unless the new owner is planning to restore it to original what it was doesn't matter much. In today's market it is worth more the way it is instead of what it was. It might put some our minds at ease knowing what it once was but like I said, unless you are restoring it, how it was really doesn't matter now. Over and out.
 
72-74's do not hold value like 70 and 71.
I will note that I have seen a handful of 2-4's that have sold on the open market for more than 45K. There are not many. Restomods and promods mostly. Very few "restored" versions.
Now a days it will cost you 40K and more to restore a cuda.
This car's value , IN MY OPINION, is topped out at 34K.
Add a build sheet, add value
Add some documents, add value
Add it being K code, add value.

The 440 set up will help with some value as I'm sure they spent some cash on it.
That's why I ask the cast numbers and the vin numbers from the motor. If it were a 69-71, the motor could hold value to an original owner that is higher than it's basic price. For instance, if it's stamped OB211303 , I'm your buyer and I just increased the value of the motor by a few grand just for you to sell it to me.
 
I believe the 5th digit will be an L if it is a 360.
So if is is BS23L that at would be a cuda
With a 360 or Bs23G would be a cuda with a 318
Or it will be a BH23G or BH23L
Or BH23C if it is a 6
No matter what any Cuda or Baracuda is valuable these days.
I'd say 30-40 is fair considering a dealer might get 50 or so for it.
 
That 73 is rare though factory 3 speed stick.
Even though it is a 318 car it is a Cuda
 
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