DionR
Well-Known Member
Brake hose routing it far better with the calipers to the front. Most that put them on the back do it either not realizing the factory put them on the front or they crash with the sway bar or something.
74 Duster, resto mod 6.4 hemi build process
- Thread starter Ozyduster
- Start date
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Brake hose routing it far better with the calipers to the front. Most that put them on the back do it either not realizing the factory put them on the front or they crash with the sway bar or something.
I think also just the more modern symmetrical look as well, i don't think it makes any difference braking wise. Ill see how i go with the lines worst case i will get them custom made
Just cut and paste for future reference when adjusting my adjustable shafts from the suspension guru himself .......
When I set up my adjustable strut rods I install the LCA's completely with the torsion bars. I use poly or Delrin LCA bushings, so the LCA pivots get torqued. I install the spindles, the UCA's, and all the bump stops. That way the LCA's and the suspension are where they're going to be, and you know the range of travel. I start with the strut rod length set so that the LCA's are perpendicular to the frame rails. Then I adjust the length of the strut rods so that there's no binding when I cycle the suspension through it's full range of travel, bump stop to bump stop. That's done with the torsion bar adjusters removed from the LCA's and without the shocks, so you're just working against the weight of the suspension.
The idea there is to replicate how the suspension will act when it's on the road. In the past I've also done a rough adjustment with just the LCA's because they're easier to move around than the whole suspension, but I've found that bolting up the rest of the suspension changes enough things to make setting it with just the LCA not worthwhile. Plus it can be hard to gauge what the actual range of travel is going to be on the car with just the LCA. That's true if you're all stock, but it's even more true if you're using tubular UCA's, LCA's, and have lowered the car and adjusted the bump stop heights to suit that.
I try to set my strut rods as short as they'll go without causing any binding at the LCA. That keeps the LCA forward on the LCA pivots (because the poly bushings let the LCA's slide on the pivots), and also may get you some additional positive caster. Free movement of the LCA is the most important thing, but with that set up a little extra positive camber usually comes with. So starting with the LCA's perpendicular I check for binding in the range of motion on the LCA's, then I shorten the strut rods until I start to notice binding starting to appear. I then back the strut rod adjustment off so there's no binding within the range of travel.
It's a bit tedious the first few times you do it but it's not particularly difficult.
When I set up my adjustable strut rods I install the LCA's completely with the torsion bars. I use poly or Delrin LCA bushings, so the LCA pivots get torqued. I install the spindles, the UCA's, and all the bump stops. That way the LCA's and the suspension are where they're going to be, and you know the range of travel. I start with the strut rod length set so that the LCA's are perpendicular to the frame rails. Then I adjust the length of the strut rods so that there's no binding when I cycle the suspension through it's full range of travel, bump stop to bump stop. That's done with the torsion bar adjusters removed from the LCA's and without the shocks, so you're just working against the weight of the suspension.
The idea there is to replicate how the suspension will act when it's on the road. In the past I've also done a rough adjustment with just the LCA's because they're easier to move around than the whole suspension, but I've found that bolting up the rest of the suspension changes enough things to make setting it with just the LCA not worthwhile. Plus it can be hard to gauge what the actual range of travel is going to be on the car with just the LCA. That's true if you're all stock, but it's even more true if you're using tubular UCA's, LCA's, and have lowered the car and adjusted the bump stop heights to suit that.
I try to set my strut rods as short as they'll go without causing any binding at the LCA. That keeps the LCA forward on the LCA pivots (because the poly bushings let the LCA's slide on the pivots), and also may get you some additional positive caster. Free movement of the LCA is the most important thing, but with that set up a little extra positive camber usually comes with. So starting with the LCA's perpendicular I check for binding in the range of motion on the LCA's, then I shorten the strut rods until I start to notice binding starting to appear. I then back the strut rod adjustment off so there's no binding within the range of travel.
It's a bit tedious the first few times you do it but it's not particularly difficult.
Finally put the 12 inch wilwood kit together, had been putting it off thinking it was going to take ages and be a pain in the ***. As I ordered it from a shop here and had to make sure they got one for usa mopars as the ozy mopar slightly different etc. Brake callipers had to have dust boots to comply etc so was waiting for something to not work or fit.
Honestly only took a few hours to assemble and fit.
Slowest part of the job was just torquing everything up and applying thread lock haha, i watched a few youtube videos on the step by step process. So now essentially the whole front end is finished i just need to sit the car down on its wheels and tighten up the pivot shafts.
The 12 inch rotars do make the callipers look a little small, was surprised the pads for the wilwoods are not super big can defiantly see why they dont get the best rap as performance brakes
Honestly only took a few hours to assemble and fit.
Slowest part of the job was just torquing everything up and applying thread lock haha, i watched a few youtube videos on the step by step process. So now essentially the whole front end is finished i just need to sit the car down on its wheels and tighten up the pivot shafts.
The 12 inch rotars do make the callipers look a little small, was surprised the pads for the wilwoods are not super big can defiantly see why they dont get the best rap as performance brakes
Was in the USA for a few weeks so i had some packages sent to my bro in laws house so could send home in my luggage however the c pillar covers had to be posted. Cost over a thousand us to post due to the size. However they are like brand new and no damage or cracks.
I have purchased new pivot shafts that are for nolathane bushes. The reason i am changing as realised every time i remove torsion bars i would have to loosen the pivot shafts and pretty much reset them every time due to rubber bushes. But with the nolathane can just have them tight and rotate on the bush with no chances of tearing like with rubber.
The reason for this is motor will come in and out a bit and i will be doing this by removing k frame so the nolathane pivot shafts will speed this process up.
I have purchased new pivot shafts that are for nolathane bushes. The reason i am changing as realised every time i remove torsion bars i would have to loosen the pivot shafts and pretty much reset them every time due to rubber bushes. But with the nolathane can just have them tight and rotate on the bush with no chances of tearing like with rubber.
The reason for this is motor will come in and out a bit and i will be doing this by removing k frame so the nolathane pivot shafts will speed this process up.
Took the lower arm out and will swap the brand new rubbers for the nolethane version and greecable pivot shafts. Was actually pretty easy to get the arms out.
Ill press the shafts out and then i am going to melt the rubber bushes out of the outer cups. Then press in the nolethane bushes in to the existing cups.
As removing the outer cups a royal pain in the ***
Anyone see any issue with this and any tips on removing the rubber bushing
Ill press the shafts out and then i am going to melt the rubber bushes out of the outer cups. Then press in the nolethane bushes in to the existing cups.
As removing the outer cups a royal pain in the ***
Anyone see any issue with this and any tips on removing the rubber bushing
I think the directions I had said to leave the outer sleeve in place. So, I think you’re good.
Yep correct, just have to get the brand new rubber out of the cup. Normally you are removing shot rubbers but this rubber brand new.
Just press the shafts out of the LCA. It doesn’t take much force at all but a press is nice because it keeps the rubber from absorbing your efforts. With that done, the rubber will just peel out of the outer shells with just a screwdriver or pick. No need to burn them out, it’ll just make a big mess for no reason.
The inner and outer shells will likely need to stay in place for the nolethane bushings.
Those bushings and the greaseable pivots should be a tight slip fit, use the proper grease on install. You won’t likely need to press it all back together, but the pivots need to be tight in the bushing and the bushings in the shells.
For example, a set of brand new rubber bushings disassembled as described. Nice and clean.
O wow, thanks for the insite that sounds like a much neater solution. I shouldn't need the inner shells as the PST pivots sont have the step in them that the inner shell normally slips aorund. Definetly keeping the outer as they are brand new.
Couple of questions however:
1. Do i lube the nolathan bushing to outer shell when pressing in? Thought i read somewhere you shouldnt lube this?
2. What lube do i use as my shafts have grease nipples. As i also read a normal grease will damage the nolothane. I only have the little sashes of nolathane lube that comes with the products
3. Obviously when i install the shafts i will lube, should i also be utilising the grease nipples as well or is this more for down the road maintenance
No problem!
Correct, most of the greasable pivot pins don't have the step for the inner shell so you don't have to worry about that at all. If you had factory style pivot pins with a step you'd need to reuse or install an inner shell to make the pivot diameter consistent for the whole length of the pin.
For the rest of it, first thing is that Nolothane is just a brand name, you have polyurethane bushings so anything you've seen here regarding how to install or maintain poly bushings should apply. To answer directly
1- Yes, lube the bushings at the outer shells and the inner pivots. The fit between the bushing and the outer shell and the fit between the bushing and the pivot pin should both be a tight slip fit. One of those surfaces will be the sliding surface, either the bushing will rotate on the pivot pin or the LCA and outer shell will rotate on the bushing. Which one slips first will determine which one is the sliding surface, and that will depend on the tolerances on your car and your parts in particular.
2- Correct, you don't want to use standard petroleum grease on poly bushings. You'll need silicone or PTFE based grease, like one of these
Prothane Super Grease
Energy Suspension Formula 5
Not sure what you have available in Australia but those should at least give you a comparison
3- I lubricate everything on install including the grease fittings. That fills the grease tube in the pivot pins with grease, so there's no chance of any trapped air/moisture causing issues with the grease tubes later. Plus that way you know the grease fittings and greaseable pivot pins actually work before you need to use them.
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