Rhs 360x

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1wild&crazyguy said:
Hey are you gonna run .620? or .580 lift? how about .550 lift?

They flowed great with the valves that came with them, MAD DART is doing WAY MORE than you are, so don't confuse this.
Besides... A set of .100+ 2.020/1.60 chev valves cost a whole $120 and opening the guides and VJ on int's would only cost another $245 and heck you could breath on these RHS's with a grinder and have bitchin #'s.


Read all of the thread/s 1st.
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LOL i absolutly loveeee the fact that YOU think you know what IM running...great for maddart that hes doing more than me...until i see proof that these heads perform up to snuff with dyno numbers or timeslips, then i will hold my point of view that they are not worth the work involved to run a high lift cam...I am not vouching for any set of heads over another, but i do believe that right now these heads obviously havent had enough run time yet to see what they can do...we need guinea pigs and i guess maddart is one of them (and i applaud him for it too)...i am currently not running a high lift cam, but i plan to do a cam and head swap, with a cam ATLEAST in the 550 lift range...so how about you dont confuse? lol
 
OKAY so how the hell does all of this help me with picking a head for MY use?
 
bigdemo1 said:
OKAY so how the hell does all of this help me with picking a head for MY use?
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IT HELPS BECOUSE...
thread-delivers.jpg


lotsa good advice in this thread.. you just gotta read between the lines lol
 
bigdemo1 said:
OKAY so how the hell does all of this help me with picking a head for MY use?
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What is your use anyway?

I think a few points have been illuminated - some guys think that re-engineering valves is 'no big deal' to the average buyer. I'm an average buyer. Sounds like a real pain in the *** to me and esepecially for whoever would be doing the work - not me. That's money better spent elsewhere.

These heads are very good, up to a point. Just when they start to be really effective, they valve spring issue can get in the way of making some really good power because depending on the cam you choose, it may not physically work without extra machining and parts beyond the initial purchase. You just have to decide whether it's worth it to work around this particular issue or perhaps spend a few more bucks initially to get to basically the same place with a set of *ahem* lighter Edelbrocks or some other brand, even Mopar. Might want to look into the SB Commandos, they seem OK.

And I'll say it again - the RHS/Indy's are a street machine cylinder head, not a race head. I think if you're trying to utilize a cam that's over .575" lift, you might want to look at a better starting point. The Edelbrocks are street heads too but it's been proven they work well in some milder race applications. They're popular for a reason, they work well in different situations. The EQ's are very good too and don't suffer from the inherent flaws that the RHS/Indy's do, though you'll be dealing with a Magnum valvetain.

Choose your poison, small block Mopars are the red-headed stepchild of the performance market.
 
Well for the OP. figure out what you want the engine to do and go from there. With a 268H, I don't think the RHS would be the optimum choice. There are some others that might be better. My suggestion... talk to and buy from someone, like Brian at Indio Motor, that deals with this stuff every day. He'll get you dialed in to a set of heads that have good characteristics for your intended application. Heads, like porting, isn't a one size fit all deal.

As far as try to run the RHS head with a .600 lift camshaft, I'm not buying the heads other than BARE... That way I can select the appropriate components to make them work for my intended applications and not throwing money away on useless components from assembled heads. Buy e-brocks for the same application and plenty of parts go in the trash. Pretty tough to grasp sometimes, but, when you want to run stuff that has inherent limitations, you find a way to make it work. Wow, having to run a long valve or cut a spring pad to get installed height, that's never happened on any other head, EVER!!! :toothy10: MP stuff is notorious for CRAP. IMO, the work required is not a deal breaker if you want to run the RHS heads. That's what this entire hot rod culture was built on... making stuff that wasn't optimum work out!

Indy SB stuff, 360-1, 360-2, ootb sucks without significant work, so that's not a bolt on either. They require a lot of work to make right. Even the cnc stuff needs some help.

None of this stuff is hard to do with a competent machinist on board!
 
mshred said:
LOL i absolutly loveeee the fact that YOU think you know what IM running...great for maddart that hes doing more than me...until i see proof that these heads perform up to snuff with dyno numbers or timeslips, then i will hold my point of view that they are not worth the work involved to run a high lift cam...I am not vouching for any set of heads over another, but i do believe that right now these heads obviously havent had enough run time yet to see what they can do...we need guinea pigs and i guess maddart is one of them (and i applaud him for it too)...i am currently not running a high lift cam, but i plan to do a cam and head swap, with a cam ATLEAST in the 550 lift range...so how about you dont confuse? lol
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lol@U!
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
lol@U!
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nice reply...of douchebaggery that is...like i said, when someone proves it with some numbers then you have something to work with, until then i totally agree with rmchrgr...i love how you tell me to read all of threads on this already...i have and guess what, to me 100 bucks here and there isnt nothing like it is for you...different people have different needs, but somehow you cant realize that...I made a simple statement of my opinion and you jump all over me for it..if its not in agreeance with what you think then its wrong- its sad there are people like that still on here when it comes to OPINION topics...there used to be a guy on here like that and im starting to wonder if your him LOL

anyways, back to the op's question...sorry for the thread hijack over stupidity
 
mshred said:
nice reply...of douchebaggery that is...like i said, when someone proves it with some numbers then you have something to work with, until then i totally agree with rmchrgr...i love how you tell me to read all of threads on this already...i have and guess what, to me 100 bucks here and there isnt nothing like it is for you...different people have different needs, but somehow you cant realize that...if its not in agreeance with what you think then its wrong- its sad there are people like that still on here when it comes to OPINION topics
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I don't understand, could you be clearer?
 
Look, I don't know it all, but who is it that comes here to help and who comes here asking for help?

I gave you an emotionless to the point response to what you were saying & perceiving to be fact, and you came back with well....immaturity.
I wasn't doing it to bash you or your dreams/goals but to inform you.
Sorry buddy.


I think this is a very informative thread that many can learn from, if they 'want to'.
 
What I want the engine to do I want it to run low twelves,get 25 miles per,win car shows and make me breakfast!Seriously I would like mid twelves or better in a street driven 73 Dart Sport,maybe 3000 stall 3:91 or 4:11 good exhaust,ignition you know what everybody wants out of a 36 year old car.
 
bigdemo1 said:
What I want the engine to do I want it to run low twelves,get 25 miles per,win car shows and make me breakfast!Seriously I would like mid twelves or better in a street driven 73 Dart Sport,maybe 3000 stall 3:91 or 4:11 good exhaust,ignition you know what everybody wants out of a 36 year old car.
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Then any of the heads mentioned will work for that, including well ported J heads. jmo
 
well the way you came across was in that manner of a know it all- your first sentence in your last reply just proves it...i did not reply with immaturity, nor did i start off by saying my opinion was fact, that is just how you are perceiving it and answering to it as...you were informing me yes, but what you say is not gospel on these heads considering how new to the market they are, and i am allowed to be entitled to my opinion of them regardless of fact just like anyone else...ill say it again that i am interested to see some actual numbers (as in slips and sheets as opposed to bobby's flow numbers) with them before i decide if they are for me as i am looking into heads...if you want to discuss this further then lets take it to pms and get back to the topic here
 
You can get there with just about any head. Stock heads would do it. Ede's would make it easier. I'd run a bigger cam than the 268H, maybe a 274 or the 60403/60404 voodoo.

The car will need to hook to get your goal. That's the hardest part of the equation.

The last thing that made me breakfast cost a bunch more than my car! LOL

MSHRED... there will plenty of good info on these RHS heads in the next few weeks. Do they have some warts.. you bet, can it be worked around. Absolutely. I bet most in this thread have never personally seen a set and basing opinions on some info that's floating around on the web, some good, some bad.
 
that was great,igot tears in my eyes,and yes the thing that makes my breakfast is expensive to.
 
crackedback said:
You can get there with just about any head. Stock heads would do it. Ede's would make it easier. I'd run a bigger cam than the 268H, maybe a 274 or the 60403/60404 voodoo.

The car will need to hook to get your goal. That's the hardest part of the equation.

The last thing that made me breakfast cost a bunch more than my car! LOL

MSHRED... there will plenty of good info on these RHS heads in the next few weeks. Do they have some warts.. you bet, can it be worked around. Absolutely. I bet most in this thread have never personally seen a set and basing opinions on some info that's floating around on the web, some good, some bad.
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hey crackedback i have never seen them before...in fact, i was seriously considering buying these heads in the next couple of months as bare castings since they are a great design for a wicked price, but like i said i have never seen any numbers put out and thats what im waiting for...depending on how much work they need for certain goals, they are obviously not for everyone (as is everythign) and im just trying to figure that out right now...i have my opinions like anybody else, but when facts are laid out in results with these heads then i think everyone's opinions will start to change for whatever reason
 
What crackedback said is true,I have personally checked over $3,500 heads that were cnc ported ect. and they needed work,the customer even got in a heated argument with brodix because they said he was being lied to.For the goals your looking for you can keep it pretty simple,myself I would simply go for a nicely done set of stock heads,I wouldnt worry about casting numbers but get a high quality valve job and some bowl porting and you should be right where you want to be.Then its all about the suspension and tune up.
 
mshred said:
hey crackedback i have never seen them before...in fact, i was seriously considering buying these heads in the next couple of months as bare castings since they are a great design for a wicked price, but like i said i have never seen any numbers put out and thats what im waiting for...depending on how much work they need for certain goals, they are obviously not for everyone (as is everythign) and im just trying to figure that out right now...i have my opinions like anybody else, but when facts are laid out in results with these heads then i think everyone's opinions will start to change for whatever reason
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No biggie.

Look at the 180 Hughes did on these things... junk to marvelous, Hmmmm.

I know that there will be some very substantive, fact based info from someone with no dog in the fight coming on these soon. He has a set of pedastal LA RHS heads in hand. Give it a few weeks.

They are capable heads with the bugs worked out.
 
crackedback said:
MSHRED... I bet most in this thread have never personally seen a set and basing opinions on some info that's floating around on the web, some good, some bad.
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don't need to see a set to see what there capable of. a little knowledge and experience is all thats needed
to make an educated guess. 550-650 nahp with cast iron heads? sure.. with enough money it can be done
to any production/aftermarket cast iron head. obviously all aftermarket cyl.heads need to be double checked.
thats a no brainer. computer programs follow a algorythm. it dosn't know if it pooched up.

some issues are minor (valve jobs for instance) others are major (springs pockets for eg.). point being some
its a buyer beware market and some companies are talking full advantage of the consumer whos interested in
MoPar.

how much do you think you gotta spend to get around 300-330cfm @ .700" lift to get the hp claims? you think
any cast iron heads will be reliable? at least with Indy 360-1~2/W2/W5 etc even with some minor flaws, you still
have an extreamly reliable cylinder head (I omited edelbrock cause thats one POS cyl.head).

CHEAP PRICE does not go with RELIABILTY or PERFORMANCE when it comes to any
aspect of a high performance engine.

as was said earlier.. one is better off cleaning up and pocket porting some production cast iron stock cyl.heads.
they lasted 30-40 years already.. they'll last for another 30 too.
 
Hughes Engines just announced they have a 1.65 shaft mount rocker arm for Magnum heads. See them here.

This is relevant to this thread because if you bought the RHS/Indy 360 Magnum heads, you could start off with a relatively mild cam which did not require monster springs (read: extra machining) and theoretically end up with significantly more lift. If you installed a let's say .509" cam and used the 1.65 rockers, you'd end up at .560". Seems like a good deal to me. If you have to buy rockers anyway, decent ones seem to cost around $450 for something like Comp Magnums. The Hughes ones are $475 but includes everything. US made too.

This is also relevant for their Iron Rams which you can get drilled for LA intake manifolds.

This product sounds like it takes care of the crappy guide plates etc. that are inherent with the Magnum valvetrain set up.

Just thought I'd pass this along, seems like a decent option.
 
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