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I think it is too. I've bounced it for a couple of weeks every time I go out there. I think the stronger leaf springs may be lifting the whole car?

I bought new U bolts from Calvert Racing and they aren't flattened or knurled? How bad is it going to hurt my housing to run them. I plan on putting 600 hp to the ground and thought these would be an upgrade. Should I replace them or just torque them and forget about it?

Thanks. I don't know exactly what you're seeing but the after is about three inches higher. I'm hoping for some settlement after I drive it for a few hundred miles. Can you tell us what size tires you're running on front?

These are brand new ESPO +1 springs on my Duster. They haven't had a chance to settle yet. No adjustments were made to the torsion bars. Before After

This is with brand new ESPO +1 springs that haven't been driven yet. I'm sure I'll get some settlement after driving it for a few hundred miles.

Since we're on the topic of Galaxies, here's my buddy Adam's car.

Mine showed up almost six weeks to the day after I ordered them.

I don't think adding an inch gives you the "high rear look"? It was the look back in the day and some of us like a modern version of it without relying on air shocks or helper spring shocks.

PM sent

I will. Here’s a shot with the stock six leaf 340 springs that are on there now. Edit: I know the springs don’t look bad, but I’m getting ready to throw almost 600 hp at it.

I received my ESPO six leaf +1 last week. Can't wait to get them installed.

I emailed them and that is what they suggested. I'll check again before I order. Didn't we have a member at onetime that was a Hellwig employee?

We're discussing Hellwig sway bars?

I'm in the same situation. Biscuit mount K member with 73-76 control arms. I asked Helwig and they recommended the #5904 for my Duster.

I just looked and it appears that even the solid bars are that grey hammer tone finish.

I used their hollow bar on my Dart because it was more of a restomod. It went on very easily and I had no complaints. It seemed like a quality product. I have a 70 Duster now with tabs on the lower control arms and will be going with their solid bar (#5904) for a more original look.

For anyone else who is curious like me. BAC MOPAR A/B/E BODY ROLLER BEARING IDLER ARM - Bergman Auto Craft

Thanks @72bluNblu I plan on swapping to a manual box and was looking at all of my options. My Dart had a FF 20:1 box on it and I was very happy with it.

ORIGINAL 16:1? Not trying to argue but what car originally came with that ratio?

From BigBlockDart Most of these boxes used bushings throughout, however, the B-body V-8 units were built for more abuse and used bearings internally instead of the bushings. So without starting a new thread, is there any advantage to using a B body manual box in an A body?

I'm installing the Dr. Diff kit on my Duster this winter. Here is the current clearance between the spring and tire. Looks to me like 5/16" I'll take another measurement when I'm done.

Yes, a half inch in each side. We did mine last weekend.

What did Dr. Diff say when you contacted him? He has parts made off shore (China) and sometimes the specs aren't exact. He quit offering the Eaton Tru Trac third members for this very reasosn.

I've had them on three different cars and this is the first time I've had trouble with them. I imagine it's like everything else, make it cheaper to increase profits and quality goes down. I'm can't justify spending $300 on a pair of shocks for a car that gets 500 miles a year.

I stand corrected. From their website Great for street/strip use. I will look into these. Thanks! CR Series Rear Shocks/pair (CR22142) – Calvert Racing, Inc.

Those along with the Competition Engineering shocks are race shocks and aren't meant for street use. I'd hate to ruin an expensive shock on the pot holes we have around here.

It sounds like it comes down to how much do you want to spend? I usually recommend the Monroe Gas-matic shocks for a street driven vehicle, but after my experience above I'm going to explore other options. The KYBs are the next affordable shock but have a reputation for being harsh over bumps...

I had a few rattles in the rear that I was searching for. I believe one of them was the shock?

I just went out in the garage to further inspect it and the weld is broken at the top. I'll start looking for a replacement. Thanks!

Following. I was working on my Duster today and found my Monroe shock had a busted weld at the top. No complaints on the way they drove or the ride, but I like you am going to a more performance oriented shock. Mostly street driven but some strip use. I'm sure we'll get some good advice here.