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So I managed to trace out the circuit this morning, and it's a restrictor between the 1-2 shift control valve and the accumulator. First one of these I had came with an O/D HD2 kit, but I've bought a few more since, to replace checkball damaged stock ones. I guess I need to call Transgo and get...

I was comparing some seperator plates today, and got to wondering why the replacement ones from Transgo have one hole (picture) that's much smaller than the stock ones I have on hand. I was hoping somebody could clarify A) which circuit this hole is part of, and B) why they decided to reduce...

Well, that turned into a whole lot of nothing. The mounting brackets wouldn't fit, as that section of framerail is wider than on the Challenger... also looks like the exhaust will be in the way. Back on the shelf it goes, guess I've got an E body sway bar for sale.

Your choice, 45#/25# or 45#/45#... $40 plus shipping, probably about $10 to the lower 48.

These are the brackets I'm using.

No, hadn't considered that. The bar's overall width (at the corners) is exactly at the outside of my springs, so the eyes on the bar would protrude 1/2 to 3/4 inch beyond.

Yep, that's pretty much how I did it.

I'm in the fit & figure stage right now, putting the mounts between the saddles an springs to locate the bar. Then see if I have room around exhaust, tires, etc. Then comes the bending.

It's a leftover from putting Hotchkis bars on my Challenger. I've already put the front bar in the '65, just figured I'd use this one as well, as it's just sitting here. And selling stuff can be more headache than it's worth.

That's why I brought it up. I've read of it being done, but wanted some good input on the idea. Yeah, it's only 1" per side, but I will be changing it's original design.

I might give that a try. My only real concern is keeping the ends level/at the same plane when I bend them in.

All in good time. I only bought the new bushings for it 8 years ago...

Good deal, thanks. One thing that will be a bit funky is the ends will be bent in from 90°, but I'm hoping that won't matter.

I've got a factory E body 3/4" rear swaybar, along with all the mounting hardware, that i want to put in my '65 Belvedere. Spring perches are 2" narrower (44" vs 46"), so I've got to squeeze it a touch. Are they hardened/spring/etc? Or can I just throw it in the press and go for it?

Hey Kim, figured you'd chime in. I'm sure I saw a post of yours that showed 2 (or more?) different versions of 904 arms, but be damned if I can find it again.

Looks close enough to me. Thanks!

Found this in with my stock of 727 shift levers. The arm is longer than any aftermarket cable shifter one I've seen, and I've really no idea what a factory 904 setup looks like. TIA, Karlin.

6-19-67 block, front of #1 bank and rear by bellhousing. No machined pad by the pan rail.

First I used Gorilla glue, some seams held fine, others not at all. I cleaned all the edges with lacquer thinner, then tried a 2-part epoxy I had. Same problem, it simply wouldn't bond. The firewall side of the box was in about 10 pieces when I started, I figured it was easier to just get another.

At first I tried gluing all the pieces back together for the broken box. It fit the car fine, but the glue job didn't hold. The one I got from the '63 is physically identical, housing-wise. It's all assembled now, hopefully I'll get to install it and test how the cables fit up today or tomorrow.

I'm starting to think the broken one is from a '65/ '66(?), as there was a slide-type dash control assembly in the box of parts that came with it. I'll try dry fitting the '63 box to my firewall before I go any further with it.

My '64 Barracuda came without a heater. I bought one (not sure of the year), but it's too busted up to warrant repairing. Grabbed another from a '63 Valiant today, but the cable brackets and one door are in different locations. Can anyone tell me, from the pics, which style is correct for 1964...

Ouch...

Valve body from a push button, slant 6 904. Looks fine, kept inside and dry for years. Won't work, however, in a 727 as they didn't slot the center hole back then. $50 plus the ride, won't be more than $25 in a large flat rate box. Yep, their prices keep going up. Edit- this could be a 1964...

Decent pair of taillights from a '73 Valiant. Lenses are nice, chrome is a bit faded on the tops, but not bad. Red accent paint is faded out as well. There's one small blister at the bottom of the driver's, but I think it could be pretty much covered if the trim red was redone. $30, plus shipping.

Yep, that's the ticket. Tested fine in high, low, and park... just swapped my wire colors to yours. Thanks again.

Thanks Rod, I'll see where that combo gets me. I have jumper wires with small fuses in-line for just in case.

I've read some arguments on line about variable vs. 3 speed, seems they are the same motor with different switches?

Later they did, but this one's all stuffed up under the dash.

I have a spare wiper motor for my '65 Belvedere, just want to make sure it works correctly. I downloaded the FSM, but the bench testing directions don't make sense. I think there's a typo, as it has the yellow wire being jumpered to both positive and negative. Supposedly the 1965 Dodge manual...