Search results for query: *

I liked their kit when I put it in my '70 Charger. It hasn't been perfect though. I don't like the way the slide controls are designed. The A/C-Heat slide is fore and aft. This makes it hard to know which way to push or pull to get the temperature where you want it. I've had trouble with it...

It really depends on the rest of your drivetrain setup, gearing, vehicle weight, and camshaft, but I honestly think the only thing the LD340 would do over an M1 single plane (which is an improved copy of a Holley Srip Dominator) on a 416 stroker is make the car go slower than what it is now...

Just a side note, I had a coupla engines break rocker shafts. The oil pressure gauge banged off "0" psi at 1/2 engine rpms. So pump resistance should reduce a bunch as the passage opens.

You redeemed yourself with the bike fixen girl and then you go and do this **** again, what the hell man!

Maybe I misunderstood but he asked specifically how much travel the throwout bearing should have? The concept is simple and should be the same no matter what the application. There should be very little travel for the reasons I gave. Too much travel and you'll potentially push the piston out of...

I agree lol

I have a Classic Auto Air Exact Fit setup in my 69 Barracuda. It works great. I put it in myself about 15 years ago.

I don't think he has the nuts. :lol:

I agree with @Icetech. Do it yourself. I have done several pairs of bucket seats and some back seats. It is pretty easy.

Don't forget to add "I dare you"

Lol, we were already texting. B1 headed bad ***.

I'd sell the LD340 and put an Air Gap on it. I LOVE my Air Gap.

You sure that’s not Leadfoot’s girl?

If your gonna use the ld340 then mill the intake surface on the heads like they should have done originally, but don’t cut the intake. I doubt you’d find any advantage with the dual plane in that combo. I’d keep running the M1 in your shoes.

it's fine. fffiiiinnnneeee. there's 60 with the drill. i mean, if you're really concerned with it, you could always get some white lith grease in the can and just aim it on in there with the little straw... the valve covers are already off anyway. then just hit the valve train with some WD...

Most shipping on plates are 10.00 I mail 3 today and that's what it cost on each one

Very awesome, thnx for sharing.

We are talking about the car with the scoop and the little red econoshitbox car are we?? Asking for @MOPARMAGA because he can be a bit shy sometimes…

Why not???? The hood scoop is very cool.

Do it!!! :poke:

BUT!!!!

I got an offer today that I am having a real difficult time saying no to. I might have to do something silly….

And hope the camshaft survives also. :lol:

It was just a suggestion, not a necessity. If after 2 minutes of priming with the oil timing lined up on a dry engine, you get no oil, there is definitely something wrong. If you only ran the drill for 10-15 seconds you might wonder “did I run it long enough to fill an empty rocker shaft?”

Let us know when you're able to do a few simple tests at the vehicle. Cheers

Slanted Darts scenario is different than yours. He has extra space between throw out and clutch. His crank flange is shallower on the gen 3 hemi versus small block. Quicktime lists the bell housing being the same when the gen 3 bell should be shallower. That's what I believe was the issue.