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I have a TII Z bar and Dougs. I had to shim the z-bar over to the bell housing and get a clickable starter to get everything to clear. I also had to install a return spring under the dash with a Diaphragm clutch. Sometimes you gotta' do what you have to do to get things to line up. FYI I had...

Use a 6 Point hex bolt that is 3/8" and I don't mean the thread size. Buy a long 12 point/open end wrench and all will fall into place when you run these difficult ones in first.

Seen a lot of complete 360's for about half that. Not saying they are better or worse, but for the money, its hard to beat.

When I did my install I used Holley's off the shelf harness 558-328 and the only factory wiring used is the IGN1 and ING2 tired as referenced by Andy. Keep in mind this is for the Gen 1 system with Hyperspark ign box and distributor. It's over priced and kind of oddly laid out but I made it work...

Last year I installed the Gen 1 Sniper and am now driving it more and I love it. Easy start, faster warm up, will high idle without fuss, Cruises easy and goes like hell. I did the entire system, Hyperspark distributor, ignition box, fuel pump (you don't need a return with their pump), etc. The...

They fit 73-up. From reading on this forum, guys with 73-up seem to see less issues with fitment. Buy a gear reduction starter from a Dakota, its smaller, lighter and you'll be glad you did.

Yes. My GTS (below) is a stripe delete car.

Can we see pictures of the manifolds? If the previous owner did these mods they might have used 340 Manifolds too.

Rollmaster or Cloys true roller. If you can, degree the cam, not sure where you'd dig up specs if its stock but they are probably published somewhere.

When I did mine twice (one for 4 speed the second for TKO) I learned cut once and use a garment steamer to remove wrinkles, seams and humps that are not needed. It will soften the wax on the back side of the carpet to reshape it.

A lip, typically on the axle shaft or wheel bearing hub that the wheel is centered on to be on the same axis as the wheel bearing. This is where hub centric rings come into play to adapt the lip to the wheel bore. Some wheels are lug centric, some are hub centric.

Just looked at this on my TKO, it has a built in speed sensor on the tail shaft and it seems the TKX has the same. Do you have a Ford or GM based TKX?

Is there a VIN? Could be a factory replacement block or "over the counter" block.

Smaller cam and a Performer or stock intake for a heavy truck.

If they are made to fit. I believe Sanderson is the only ones who do, with caveats.

Seems like an odd article to me about just the 440. All V8's by every manufacture from that era suffered the same emissions/fuel economy fate.

No pics off hand but mine was a 1966 Coronet 500 with a 440 and 727 back in the early 90's. My dad still has it, has resorted a lot of it. Just rebuilt the 440 and swapped in a 4 speed.

New tube of Ultra grey or Right stuff, Mock up the intake and check china wall clearance, if the seals slide in, use them, if they are difficult to slide in just use a heavy bead. Verify roll pins are removed or your intake has clearance for them. If using a heavy bead, watch for voids in the...

^This. What cam, initial timing and total timing and when? Are you using a vacuum gauge? If so what are you getting for vacuum idle?

I don't know. Seems the mounting wouldn't matter as long its for the correct engine being used and a Saginaw pump. I know Borgeson has brackets but that maybe for those adding PS who wouldn't normally have them.

What pump do you have? If Saginaw, mine is Tuff Stuff pulley and pretty beefy. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8488a I do have some CVF pulleys uninstalled and my dad has a set on a 302 Ford and they are nice too.

Hotchkis makes the tabs to weld on. Hotchkis Sport Suspension 23367 Hotchkis Sport Suspension Sway Bar End Link Mounting Brackets | Summit Racing

Like the Professor said, mock it up, buy a longer or shorter bolt as needed to set the height then trim the separator tube as needed.

See post 2. Steering Shaft Length? See Post 4 Factory Steering column length?

Find someone with a CAD system and a 3d printer to model the cap to clear and print you a set.

On the one I used from Painless, the only thing from the stock wiring was to trigger the relay, the rest is all sperate.

Do you have a service manual? If not you can download one. Teh 73 or 72 manual might get you close to find a circuit to test. Service Manuals – MyMopar When I added gauges, I added a remote fuse block in the glove box to power all my Auxiliary stuff like gauges, stereo, etc.

What all do you have for grounds and how clean are they? Do you use a batter tender to keep the battery fully charged?

Yes as others have said. The 340 cast crank is decent too. Its not the same as a 318 cast crank and the balance is different then a 360. It is lighter than the forged crank and for a street car works just fine. I have one in my 340 that is neutral balanced. That said, until you see the crank...

I used a thread die on mine and put nylock jam nuts on them. I don't recall the thread size. They get loose and want to splay out and be difficult pivot.