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Best fitting headers in the standard 1-5/8 tube size is Summit Racing - then a tie between Hooker and the non standard and expensive TTI stepped header. Hedman was also very good. Everything else sucked *** and needed to meet my adjuster, Mr. S Hammer Jr.. Mr. Sledge is a good friend of...

Since you have nether A D your using speedmaster heads, where do the heads ports start to loose flow? I, myself like to lift the valve as much as possible or at least to where the maximum amount of flow happens in the head. This is not always possible but I try. There isn’t a lot of power to...

Then don’t swap the Holley intake. Use a dual plane. Factory iron or a Performer.

They don’t have to be expensive just give repeatable results.

Oh dear lord just answer the question AJ. Yes you can swap heads, it’ll run, may ping, if so, reduce timing and/or use the next grade up octane until knock disappears. Fix the 360 head and swap heads to keep it balanced.

The bottom line is yes. Later on, get the 360 head fixed.

Bingo Double bingo I agree that is the best route. If the engine needs to be bored out, replacement pistons are the cheapest route. More compression is a low return on power output. Triple bingo If the OP wants more power, there’s cheap and expensive. This should be in your sig...

Nevermind

Sounds like a good plan. IDK if the OD trans is a good route to travel. The first gear is a blast. You’ll have to rev it up a little more for that RPM drop into second. Third is a normal shift and OD is for the Hwy. If you really want it, then do it. It should change the 3.73’s to a 2.60 - ish...

I’ll be a bummer and tell you what you’ll experience. Loss of low end torque A gain in high rpm HP Camshaft dependent, the two intakes will balance out around the same rpm area of approximately 4000/4500 You’ll pick up a usable 500 rpm up top and hang onto the power to 5500. To make the most...

Naaawwww, he is in the street. RRR nailed it. .750 roller and a Dominator up top the Sup Victor. :rofl:

Are heads are just the aluminum castings. Most often, they will need valves, springs, locks and retainers. A valve job is often done on the head but may need to be adjusted but certainly checked for your valves and needs. The head will have valve guides installed. The step below is a ”Raw Head”...

Screw them :rofl:

OP, find more power and n a good 4bbl carb and intake. For the heads & what you’re doing with them, any enhancement is going to be pricey with a low return - but just a bowl porting is a good step. Better if you use the 1.88/1.60 - 360 valves. Also work on your exhaust.

2.02 + 1.60 = 3.62 is a 3.91 stock sized bore. They fit and work. Valve shrouding should be avoided however even the factory offerings across the board don’t worry about valve shrouding. It is just not that big of an issue and means near nothing in an everyday street car. Worrying about it is...

Let the machinist decide if it needs it or not. The conditions of the cylinder will be determined then. The machinist will probably opt for a .030. I like the cam. Increasing duration moves the power band upwards. If you like how it performs now, keep the cam. No. You can if you want but it’s...

No! This is a restrictive mileage seeking intake. Yes! These are manifolds that free up air flow and allow more power easily.

How heavy is the car approximately?

Clean burn? 0r “Leanburn” ignition/emission system? I’m haven’t heard of “Cleanburn.” Leanburn is the first (rudimentary) computer mounted on the side of the air cleaner. It controlled the spark and timing. No OSCA valve that I can remember. Some air cleaners (years unknown) did have something...

The valve on the firewall designed to delay vacuum advance for 15 seconds in the name of clean air. Just run the vacuum line from the carb port to the distributor and that’s that.

My exact thoughts. However, they’ll try out several and find what they like. Like the 3 bears story….. just sayin…..

Any factory iron 4bbl is a very good intake. You can save some weight with an Edelbrock Performer. The small displacement engine can use a 500cfm Edelbrock. A 600 isn’t to large ether. I would use the AVS II style carb.

...don’t bother raising older used equipment. Go to Manciniracing.com or Summitracing.com The “Orange box ignition kit” is a simple 4 wire installation. 1 wire to a constant 12v source, 1 wire to the coil, the other two wires with the connector end to the distributor. Start at 15* initial timing.

Ask the girls that question.

Check the 11/10/9 second zone listings in the racers forum up top in the sticky section. The thread is supposed to be laid out in a fashion so it’s easy to read the list of parts that the poster used to obtain the ET and speed. With this, anyone happening to stroll in looking to obtain an ET...

I couldn’t agree with this more. The car is a little on the heavy side which of course, requires more power. I’m gutting and fiberglass it as much as practical but not in full my ‘71 Duster. Less weight = Less power needed.

That’s it right there. IMO, while it won’t really add any meaningful power to the daily driver, the race engine will have a small benefit to it. It asked for my last engine to be bored and honed with a torque plate since it’s slated to be a race engine. It makes sense here. Exactly. I had to...

I edited my first post… Love his drawl.

It’s also in the wear of the piston and cylinder. How it looks at the refresh time. This guy I have seen before and he knows what he is doing first off and second off, who ever that idiot who she is talking about is a first class *** clown that should t be allowed to have a computer, much less...

Goooooood distributor!