Here's a great video. It is what it is.
Torque plates
- Thread starter toolmanmike
- Start date
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On our race engines (Especially Small Block Mopars)
not only do we use a Deck Plate but we home the blocks
at the water temperature that we actually stage the race cars
at. Does it make a measurable difference? I do not know but we
sure do get our feet wet a lot and go thru a lot of Socks.
not only do we use a Deck Plate but we home the blocks
at the water temperature that we actually stage the race cars
at. Does it make a measurable difference? I do not know but we
sure do get our feet wet a lot and go thru a lot of Socks.
We ever since I Epoxy Painted the shop floor it
is too slippery for those Waders! I am afraid I might
Hone Myself a new one.
is too slippery for those Waders! I am afraid I might
Hone Myself a new one.
Haven't yall won a lot? Kinda answers that question, don't it? lol
It’s also in the wear of the piston and cylinder. How it looks at the refresh time.
This guy I have seen before and he knows what he is doing first off and second off, who ever that idiot who she is talking about is a first class *** clown that should t be allowed to have a computer, much less a 9/16th combo wrench.
Reminds me of a few *** clowns here.
This guy I have seen before and he knows what he is doing first off and second off, who ever that idiot who she is talking about is a first class *** clown that should t be allowed to have a computer, much less a 9/16th combo wrench.
Reminds me of a few *** clowns here.
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That's still worth watching just to hear about "Fairy Dust and Unicorn Farts!" 
Yep! Love listening to the guy.That's still worth watching just to hear about "Fairy Dust and Unicorn Farts!"
I edited my first post…
Love his drawl.
Love his drawl.
He said if you are building a race engine or rebuilding a certain block (like the FE Ford) you should hone with one. If honing at operating temp works for you then go for it. Like he said, If you are freshening up your wife's Yukon LS it's probably not necessary. Pay the extra and have it done if you choose.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Honing blocks at 'operating' temps makes SO much sense to me.
That’s it right there. IMO, while it won’t really add any meaningful power to the daily driver, the race engine will have a small benefit to it. It asked for my last engine to be bored and honed with a torque plate since it’s slated to be a race engine. It makes sense here.
Exactly. I had to LOL at the keyboard warriors comment complaining at the .0004 is bad comment.
Find that measurement on your Harbor Freight digital calipers or your feeler gauges.
Sooooo stupid
We have a bunch of chickens and I have noticed =
Even a Blind Chicken gets a lump of Corn every now and then!
Amen
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Would you check, set ring end gaps with the torque plates and water too?
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I asked the above question for learning purposes only, not meaning to sound sarcastic
If you are building a sophisticated enough engine, then yes. Also if you are anal, yes!
How round the cylinder is makes a hell of a lot more an issue
with ring seal than a thou or two in the ring gap does at least
in our shop!
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I understand that. I was on a different forum years ago and they talked heavily about using water at temperature for boring and honing blocks and they found no real difference in horsepower or ring sealing or longevity, but I don't know this as fact nor do I have any experience with it. But it seems to me that it would have a difference
On the ring gap question, I don’t remember where I had read it but at least one pro level builder who was using the hot water / head gasket / torque plate method used a “bench cylinder” made from a piece of stock bored and honed to “hot bore size” for setting the ring gaps.
You're the real deal GTX JOHN.....wish I was closer would love to meet you and learn some real deal super stocker proven power tips....just scored a rebuilt 1972 thermoquad 4speed carb 6138s...I'm ready to hear those secondaries suck the clouds in....
When I was buying some equipment ~20yrs ago, I discussed hot honing with them, & they said the NAPCAR guys were trying it but it wasn't getting the results they were expecting. I said that didn't make sense, & was curious why, so I stayed plugged in to it.....turned out they needed to pre-heat the honing oil, otherwise the cooler oil caused distortion, plus the type of stone was specific. Any insights of Your own You'd share? Much appreciated.
If You've ever pulled the head off of an AMC 6 including an HO 4.0L, the crosshatch is gone adjacent to the 1/2" head bolts, like a 5/8"-3/4" swath. Like He said, some get it all the time because they're prone. This is when folks don't get why a BRM 'dingleberry' hone works better needs pointing out, the engine torque plate honed itself while running & stress relieving itself, if bore taper etc. is in spec. the BRM won't undo it.
The part I was really listening to was when he talked about the Ford FE block getting the torque plate "no matter what" and the reason he gave was the head bolt threads were in the top right below the deck. Just like all our engines as well as most older domestic blocks. I'd like to hear his opinion on all the rest.
IntenseBlueRT
New Member
That "clown" is me... And his entire video is a misconstruing of what was said. Massively misleading.
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