Put a bucket in the corner, toss all the trimmings there, see how much you can save . It can be substantial.
Trimming weight all over often allows you to put weight where you need it.
It's a total of all the tiny enhancements, refinements the other guys don't do, - that gets the hardware in the end.
Folks point at one tiny thing and asks what help that is, - by itself, prob nothing, but the grand total gets the gold, jmo
My son-in-law thought I was kidding when I handed him a hacksaw, and pointed to all the bolts that needed trimming on his racecar . ROFL !
Drag me outta my recliner, - my *** .
I had issues with detonation, never heard it, but the evidence was clear by the material missing, pitting close to the edge of the piston top, opposite the spark plugs. Scrutinize the piston top. My rod bearings also lost "crush".
http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html
nother...
Hey Les, the old linelocs would occasionally leak, there was a kit avail, did a couple.
Haven't had to try and repair a new style .
Good luck
https://www.amazon.com/Hurst-5671500-Line-Lock-Rebuild/dp/B000COATYG?tag=fabo03-20
You have front and rear brakes, dual master, the proportioning valve should be between master cyl and rear brakes only, with no effect on front brake pressure/application.
The front brake circuit should have the line lock only.
Once triggered, It should hold whatever pressure you apply, also has...
Very awesome .
Some folks don't have any idea how hard/expensive those last hundredths can be.
Often those hard ones are chassis, not power .
Good on ya,
If you're gonna have to take 3 fat friend everywhere you go, just to be able to hook, - you need to be thinking about other things than cam .
Have you ever driven a +400 h/p rear wheel drive car, just curious ?
It will be fine .
Get the car to hook, or 200 h/p will be too much .
Youll often find that once you build the perfect car in " theory", they're WILL be changes .
I have often built an idea/concept, that when completed and tested, that "reality" forced some changes of those "theories" ...
If you don't have headers, start there.
You won't get full improvement with any addition till you can get rid of exhaust, the choke point.
It's the most cost effective h/p improvement short of nitrous.
jmo
I can understand cracked top rings cuz of the number of re-rings that would have been done without removing the ridge, and the new square edged ring pounding into the ridge, no idea on second ring, cept carbon buildup behind ring not removed on re-ring, the ring not able to move/compress freely...
Sure, I always take broken stuff apart to see what/where it failed.
I found it curious that it blasted apart as opposed to just hinging open as others I've seen ,
Good luck .
If the needles have worn ridges ( like a worn u-joint, limited motion back and forth created troughs) that the needles recess into, that the initial pressure to get the needle/rocker to move, could be twice the actual force needed to "rock" ? ?
With the extreme spring pressures .
Pic is extreme...
I'm curious if you looked at the shafts or the actual shaft roller bearings and the actual surfaces of the outer bearing race, and the shaft.
If there was brinelling on either surface, that might cause vibration or stress on the rocker.
Can you crack one of the damaged bearings apart to look at...
If you can't get rockers, can you get bushes made like leaf spring rubber bushes with a shoulder, to insert where the bearings are.
That'd spread stress, - or some variation thereof ?
Spitballing .
If you replace the rockers with stronger, problem won't take long to find, if it's something else.
Once is an anomaly, twice has a cause, in my experience .