Curious if anyone out there has fabricated an entire replacement? Thought about doing one out of anodized aluminum with a large center LED 3rd brake light.
Not in a Dart but I put 66 Barracuda dash in my 66 Valiant. I had to trim a little off the Valiant dash frame and make up a new multipin connector.
Works great, get the entire dash including the glovebox.
You will find if using a non OEM low resistance coil and original resistance ballast will result in an overheated coil. This shows up after extended use on warm days and high RPM use. It will leave you on the side of the road.
Measure the primary coil resistance. Measure the voltage to the coil primary and calulate the ballast resistance needed. NAPA has some ballast resistors values to choose from to get close to 5amps thru the coil primary. Example: 10V to primary coil (some voltage drops thru circuit) ballast...
What coil are you using? You want around 5amps going through the primary winding. Current = voltage /resistance. A "correct" ballast may overheat the coil and leave you on the side of the road.
If you drive it around like a normal car and stop at grocery stores, gas stations ect you'll get a lot of attention if thats what you're looking for. Car show people are a different type of A holes.
Appears to be someones idea to keep water out. I would drill these and spray the cavity with WD40 or something. Having the cavity open and protected is the only way to keep the rust at bay.
Your car looks great! No need for validation, although Valiants where at the bottom of the food chain back then, they sure have aged well.
No stripes, No spoilers, No scoops, No over styling, just simple nice lines in a lightweight form.
They are great little engine, put in an light early A, good mileage, a bit of power, solid lifter (up till 68) with adjustable rockers. It amazes me how many of them are still out
there running, compared to Chevy 283 which outnumbered the 273 by a bunch.
Search this topic on aftermarket sender problems, it has been an ongoing issue for years. The fix I believe is either an NOS sender or extra circuitry in line with the aftermarket sender to correct this linear resistance difference. The extra circuitry I
think is called Meter Match. This is the...
I see on Rock Auto the rheostat ranges from 10-80 ohms. i installed an aftermarket similar Chinese sender and yeah it reads empty and full but anywhere else is no mans land. The rheostat (variable resistor) is wound in an even or linear fashion unlike the original which is uneven shaped or non...
Please report back on its accuracy, I see is the correct empty/full resistance but everywhere in between empty/full? I don't think anyone manufactures one that works properly.
Don't buy it, its a POS. Spend a little extra a get original Mopar with roller wheel. Been there those Chink repos are cheaply made and will not last and feel like crap.
I have wedged a breaker bar against the frame and bumped the starter. Consider the direction (counter clockwise) of the crank bolt when wedging the breaker bar.
Post 18 shows wheel wells on the show car using the same side (driver fender made to fit driver quarter panel) as opposed to Post 20 which used pass side fender to make driver quarter. The car in post 20 (blue two tone) looks **** eyed IMO. I have done this on mod on my 66 Valiant using the...
I put a 66 cuda dash in a 66 valiant. Some minor cutting to the valiant was needed as it is smaller and a different shape. Don't forget the glove box piece and the end cap piece to complete the job. Then I believe I had to modify the wiring plug into the
dash, I can't remember if the plug/pins...
I had to do the quarter panels on my 66 cuda, used a 68 cuda quarter w flip top gas filler (recessed into the quarter panel) and grafted it onto the 66 quarter. Looks factory and no one has ever noticed. Sorry no pic someday maybe I will get a phone.