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IMO, probably better to use the carb plate held with 4 5/16" correct length bolt engagement spreading the load over all the intake bolts. I use end of head to opposite end of head as lift points when doing engine/trans assy. Bulkhead connector clearance can be a little tight as well as heater...

I'm thinking it best to make sure the bracket is moved evenly to keep the alternator pulley parallel to the pump and crank pulleys.

.............. https://ttiexhaust.com/Footnotes/FN_39.htm

If it can help............ Footnote #39

Hood on or hood off? Maybe consider lifting the rear of the car and pull 'em together. How deep is your pan? The Lakewood and a deep 971 pan is really tight on my Barracuda between the firewall and the K-member. A 402 is a non-issue. Zip the crank pulley off. Don't forget something to plug the...

Looks like a truck mount.....

^Lol

My '69 w/o the boot when I was fitting carpet..........

............ https://www.megapartsusa.com/products.php?cat=394 If it helps, mine is a single belt. Two spacers for swivel bolt and a split spacer in between, pressed into the rear alt ear..... a third spacer is behind the tension adjust bracket...........

........ https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/torsion-bar-nomenclature.372740/post-1971568360

'69 Barracuda with a big block K

I believe a full right turn may try to add idler clearance to your pan in a Abody..... If you are installing the engine and trans as an assembly from the top, you may find that it's a pretty tight fit from the pan bucket front to bell conflicting with the firewall to k-member.

Lol, if ya' look at 'em wrong they get a scratch or ding. This pair is shelf decor these days.

maybe .............

Can you say, "Daves69 is not disputing that"? :poke:

FWIW, the pictures were posted for reference. They were not posted to drive a point or opinion. Then too, the open area at the screen I'm sure is large enough by design to continually feed the 1/2" ID of the tube off the bottom of a stock pan / pickup combination. Do as you like with your straw.

Really? What is your point?

1/2" tube Hemi pick up.......

There's this............ https://www.manciniracing.com/mopr2870547a.html

You might pull the plugs out, take that slinger off the crank, and spin the engine with a remote switch. Listen for the noise.(?) I believe it's possible to miss the push rod with the fuel pump arm on install. If that were the case, I can't imagine the pump feeding fuel.

There's a tool to install and size a new bushing correctly. Check the FSM. A backward oil slinger will make a lot of racket if the concave side is installed inward as it would have contact with the timing chain.

Chassis manual.

"Down and out", the easy way to remember.

Asking for opinions on RB push rod length checkers. I'll be needing a cup end checker and springs for RPM heads, MP rockers and hydraulic cam. I heard some can have clearance issues with the head(?). What brand/model # do ya'll like these days?

Maybe some help here ............ Tech Index Cast manifold link ......... B-Body HP Manifolds

FWIW, they both are a PITA. A 6-point plug socket wouldn't go on for me out on a bench. Consider shortening up a 12-point thin wall socket to get past the steering. Even with FW's #7 has issues with steering. While waiting for the 90° boots (I was supposed to get with wires), I tried on a...

Mine is this close with the six pack......... I can still get the top two bell bolts .............

If you're confident you didn't stress the pickup tube threads causing it to crack on the install, you might consider pulling that pump apart again and make sure the rotor isn't bound up.

FWIW, some old info here on cam / lifter installation and may shed some light on possible causes for failure. About 5-6 pages (no pictures) lol. The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - 1973 Chrysler Hustle Stuff Slide Show (Pg 1) (hamtramck-historical.com)